2GN.ORG

Hi Guys
I have a urgent question ...I go to start the car just now and to me it sounds like the battery is dead...I get power but when I try to turn the car on it just goes tick tick tick tick and tries to start but no response...then I do the key dance and it says P1684 the code battery disconnected ....the battery seemed ok ...could it have just died? there is a green indicator on the battery to say its ok...but its not....

could it be just as simple as the battery is stuffed?

Make sure the terminals are on tight. If they are, might be time to replace them.

Mate terminals are tight ? When u say replace them ... Why?when they look ok?

When the starter is clicking, are the lights still bright, or do they go really dim?

If the terminals are clean and tight, then it is either the battery, the terminal at the starter, or the starter solenoid internal wiring. If the hold in coil has died, the solenoid will slap back and forth.

In the case of the starter/terminal problem, the lights will prolly dim slightly, but not much. If it is the battery, the lights should die with the starter.

I've had issues like that when the terminals weren't on tight or they weren't contacting properly. Sounds like the battery is pooched or has just enough juice to turn on the lights and stuff but not to crank the engine.

Ok I tried to just beep the horn and the horn sounded sick like it was dying
I replaced my OEM horn a few years ago with a simple after market one...so I'm hoping its just the battery...

the lights in the car and dash come on ok....

I didn't drive the car for 7 days just last week ...it was just sitting in the garage ...as I was away for work...I did start it when I came back twice and drove it once...also I drove to work today but like I said...I went to move it under cover and the thing just died...

Most likely the battery. I was refering to how the lights act when attempting to crank the starter. If the battery voltage is dropping when starting, the lights will go dim/dark.

Hi guys
Ok I had the road side assist come out...they said something drained the battery...Funny thing is it started when he came but ...as soon as I turned it off it didnt start...And then we tried again and it did start...I do have a keyless entry that is after market and sometimes when i lock the car the keyless entry doesn't work and the light flash forever ...Normally I check before I leave the car but I didn't today so they could have been flashing for 4 hours....that could have drained the battery..but why would it start and then not start ...

he did say the alternator reading wasn't good...

shit do you think its a start motor or alternator issue? No codes

You will need a multi meter to measure the voltage to see what it is with it running. If it only ran a couple minutes, there is no way the battery would have been charged adequately.

You really need to use a battery charger to get the battery back to a proper state. Then reconnect the terminals and start it. Check the voltage while cranking, and running.

It shouldn't drop below 9 volts while cranking. Should be ~14 volts running.

Unless you have a pricey multi meter, you won't be able to check the DC amperage output. That is what should have been checked when it was first jumped. Volts would naturally be low, if the battery was taking a lot of amps at that time.

Thanx Bill Mate
I'm doing that tomorrow with my mechanic...

funny thing is car is driving and starting normally??? no battery light is coming on whatsoever ...infact it never did.......maybe the keyless entry stuffed up and stayed on for 3 hours??

one more thing though..this could be important....lately I have noticed for no apparent reason ....on the dash ...the fog light indicator comes on...but I don't switch the fog lights on..?? the way to turn it off is to just slightly push touch the arm and it shuts off..like its faulty....any ideas?

you can see the switch below...all I do is push it on the end and the light turns of...you can see you need to move the switch to turn the fogs on

the fog light issue is common, the contact on the MFS goes bad. there is a how to on here that fixes the issue temporarily but can sometimes come back. i'm sure the BUX MFS is probably hard to find or expensive to replace.

just to add the MFS issue wont drain the battery

r/tguy02 wrote:the fog light issue is common, the contact on the MFS goes bad. there is a how to on here that fixes the issue temporarily but can sometimes come back. i'm sure the BUX MFS is probably hard to find or expensive to replace.

just to add the MFS issue wont drain the battery

Mate..excuse my dumbness but what is MFS? multi function switch?

also I think that there is no difference between switches..even though I drive on the right the lights and indicator are on the left and wipers on the right

Alex Kurdian wrote: but what is MFS? multi function switch?

Correct.

If you are not getting a battery light/CEL, the alternator is working well enough to keep the voltage in it's target range. Otherwise it wold light up the battery light and the CEL.

Thanx mate...just off topic ...that MFS issue ... I was just reading on here and apparently some plastic connector gets all screwed up..its a common fault...so if I was to get a new MFS with front and rear fogs...is that available from the USA? cause here it will be like a million dollars...also this common fault is it as simple as replacing the MFS...I read on here that fires start! WTF!

as for my power issue...shit maybe something was left on and the battery drained??

Alex Kurdian wrote:Thanx mate...just off topic ...that MFS issue ... I was just reading on here and apparently some plastic connector gets all screwed up..its a common fault...so if I was to get a new MFS with front and rear fogs...is that available from the USA? cause here it will be like a million dollars...also this common fault is it as simple as replacing the MFS...I read on here that fires start! WTF!

you might be able to order one from a dealer here in the states but thats probably it. as i was saying since yours is BUX you have front and rear fogs, non of the US neons have that so our fog selector switch isnt like yours. if you feel comfortable trying to repair it yourself i suggest going that route rather than trying to source a new one, but yes a new one will fix your issue.
as for that fire issue, usually what happens is the plugs on the back of the MFS melt causing shorting, but a fire from that is rare as far as i know.

r/tguy02 wrote:you might be able to order one from a dealer here in the states but thats probably it. as i was saying since yours is BUX you have front and rear fogs, non of the US neons have that so our fog selector switch isnt like yours. if you feel comfortable trying to repair it yourself i suggest going that route rather than trying to source a new one, but yes a new one will fix your issue.
as for that fire issue, usually what happens is the plugs on the back of the MFS melt causing shorting, but a fire from that is rare as far as i know.

Thanx Mate ...I got in touch with a place in the US and they said no can do its an export part and I quote

that item is restricted by Chrysler, we cannot sell it, export only

bloody hell!

Well tell them they are bloody exporting it.

The real reason is they are protecting the parts sales for the export dealers.