Regular or high strength timing belt?

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Regular or high strength timing belt?

Post by timk225 » Tue Jun 25, 2013 4:31 pm

I'm doing my 100,000 mile maintenance soon on my 5 SXT ATX, and it'll include the water pump, timing belt tensioner, timing belt, and accessory belts. Also included will be a ported and polished Magnum head swap with a Crane 12 cam and Crane valve springs.

I already have a Pacesetter header on the car and a K&N filter and twin outlet 1st gen style muffler and Magnaflow cat.

I was reading on Modern Performance about the OEM and high-strength timing belts, and I wonder if I should spend the extra $40 for the high strength one, since the Crane springs are heavier than stock.

I don't like the idea of putting extra load on the valvetrain with heavy springs, but if this cam requires it then I guess I have to use them. With the ATX, top end rpm is about 6300 on the 1-2 shift.

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Post by nerox » Tue Jun 25, 2013 5:26 pm

I have crane springs and standard type belt, you'd be surprised just how strong a good quality timing belt is.

When you take your old one off try cutting it up and you'll see.

Personally I would save your $ for something else
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Post by JeffM » Tue Jun 25, 2013 9:11 pm

Keep in mind your OEM belt has lasted 100,000 miles. The OEM belt is by no means weak.

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Post by Fuzzyneon » Tue Jun 25, 2013 9:24 pm

I got gates I'm sure I would be fine with a stock one but I spent a lot more on parts made me feel better
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Post by cook2790 » Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:18 pm

I don't see the difference at all.
the expensive timing belts don't offer anything that the cheaper ones offer other than durability. that is all you are paying for.

by all means, I would be changing my timing belt at 80k miles instead of 100k if using a cheaper standard timing belt. but the most important thing is to get a new water pump and tensioner...

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Post by jrumann59 » Wed Jun 26, 2013 1:08 am

Just because its high strength doesn't mean it will not lead to problems. If it isn't elastic enough it could put strain on bearing surfaces, it may not break if water pump seizes. How much more high strength 5% 10%.
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Post by timk225 » Wed Jun 26, 2013 3:46 pm

If the water pump did seize, and the belt didn't break, I imagine it'd strip the teeth off the belt mighty fast.

I don't think the OEM replacement belt is bad by any means, I just wondered if the high strength one would be any better. I guess not.

I've read tech articles in the past in regards to the 2.2 Turbo 3 Dodge engine, where they said part of the timing belt problems was because the overly strong springs would resist the cam's rotation on opening, but then try to snap it forward with the roller rockers on the closing side of the cam lobe.

Maybe I'm overthinking this.

Judging by the few numbers I've seen, I think the Crane springs are about 30% stiffer than stock, maybe not enough to cause problems.

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