CEL Codes P0132 & P0134

2k1MotorSport · Post by **2k1MotorSport** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 6:34 pm

As the title says... I have had a problem a few months ago with blowing fuse 20 under the hood. Shop found out that it was a bad ground with my oil pressure gauge (so i was told). Well i popped fuse 20 again today on the way home from work. Needless to say i put a new fuse in and it started right up.

Went to a store quick came out and finally disconnected the oil pressure gauge from the dash (so i shouldn't have that specific problem again) Started to drive home and got a CEL light for p0132 and p0134

Now from odb-codes.com the titles for these problems are as follows. (don't know if this will help)
P0134 - 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1)
P0132 - O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor1)

Now on obd-codes.com they say this about the p0134 code

Potential Symptoms One or more of the following may occur:
Check engine light illumination
Poorly running/engine missing
Blowing black smoke
Poor fuel economy
Dying, stuttering

This does describe pretty much everything that has been happening to the car over the past few months. Should i replace both o2 sensors to just be safe or is there another underlying problem that may be causing these things?

thomas_w · Post by **thomas_w** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 10:51 pm

I would look into the wiring first. The issue with the fuse seems to suggest that the wiring is starting to have issues. If I am not mistaken the P0132 suggests that there is a short between the signal and the 12V line. This can obviously happen inside the sensor as well but from what I read online it is more likely to be somewhere in the wiring. Going through all the wiring is annoying but fixing any issues can keep you from getting stranded down the line. I just did this on my 1gn. Typical spots for the wiring shorting out due to melting or chafing are on the vertical stretch behind the engine and around the head/valve cover. Another spot apparently is the sensor wiring rubbing on the axle. I would disassemble the wiring completely from the top of the engine down to the O2 connector. Even if the outer fabric around the wiring looks good the wiring can still be bad inside.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:53 am

2k1MotorSport wrote:Shop found out that it was a bad ground with my oil pressure gauge (so i was told).

.

Even an aftermarket gauge, depending on how it is wired in, wouldn't blow the fuse, unless you powered it from that fuse, and it was shorting between the splice and the gauge/illumination feed.

2k1MotorSport · Post by **2k1MotorSport** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 11:10 am

Well i wasn't the one who put the gauge in. Another friend put it in and i'm not sure where he spliced in to but the defrost switch doesn't light up anymore and neither does the trac control switch. They both work just no illumination. So i'm not really sure how it was wired in. But it's going to be coming out anyway. Not sure if i want to keep it or not.

The mechanic was saying that he disconnected everything to do with that fuse and it was still blowing then he cut the ground wire for the gauge (which i wasn't happy about) and it stopped blowing the fuse. And it was fine up until yesterday. A couple months ago my friend was helping me with working on the car and reconnected the gauge again.

2k1MotorSport · Post by **2k1MotorSport** » Tue Sep 24, 2013 6:24 pm

So i'm just going to be buying both o2 sensors.

Are there any recommendations for brand? Are they both the same or is there a difference in part number between the upper & lower?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Sep 24, 2013 9:58 pm

Plug and play are different pn's because of the connector differences. Bosch might sell one that fits both, because they made the connector slot wide enough to accept both up and down stream connectors.

I would stick with the plug and play to avoid having to crimp or solder anything. Some of the universal ones use stainless wire, which will not tin. (Take solder) The solder just rolls off. Crimps will corrode after a while, giving you bad readings.

Stainless can be soldered with acid flux, but acid and electrical are a disaster waiting to happen.

IIRC, NTK is the preferred brand...

I have also used Bosch and had no troubles.

2k1MotorSport · Post by **2k1MotorSport** » Tue Sep 24, 2013 9:59 pm

Yeah I may have to go with bosch.. tbey have the oem connector already on.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:04 pm

I believe the NTK ones Rock Auto sell have the connectors also, they don't show them, but they are up/down specific. No other reason than the connectors to specify.

Not that I'm pushing one or the other. Just sayin'

2k1MotorSport · Post by **2k1MotorSport** » Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:20 pm

i'm guessing that the upstream one would be before the cat and the downstream would be after the cat?

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:07 am

Correct.

2k1MotorSport · Post by **2k1MotorSport** » Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:10 am

Nice. Its a good thing I bought an r/t cat years ago from blackroseracing. Just have to plug tge sensors in to that and switch cats. Sensors are ordered and should be good to go

2GN.ORG

CEL Codes P0132 & P0134

CEL Codes P0132 & P0134

Re: CEL Codes P0132 & P0134