what is the best spark plugs and wires

OZ10 · Post by **OZ10** » Sun Nov 14, 2004 1:50 pm

I need to get new plugs and wires for my 01 rt and I was wondering what was the best for my car. I was thinking about the new NGR's but not to sure about wires. If any one could help that would be great. And also what type of fuel milage should I get to a full tank? thanks

TNK · Post by **TNK** » Sun Nov 14, 2004 6:35 pm

i love my MSD wires... they were priced nice too, from modernperformance.com. they smoothed out my idle a lot.

Louie · Post by **Louie** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:21 am

im using msd wires. .didnt do any wonders. .just needed new wires and msd came up.

im also using stock champions. .i wanted ngk v power but they were out.

i average about 22mpg. .but have a very heavy foot. thats all city too.

unsuper man · Post by **unsuper man** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:34 am

jesus, i still get 30+ with my turbo setup, and i have a CRAZY heavy foot.

JeremyJ · Post by **JeremyJ** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:34 am

Standard Champion Coppers and MSD wires. Platinum sucks.

CU_rob · Post by **CU_rob** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 8:16 am

Article from Grassroots Motorsports (SCCA/NASA mag)....
http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/stock%20tips.html

Summary

Ignition Wires
Ignition wires are free in Solo's Stock class: the rules state they may be replaced with pieces of any origin. From the data we've collected, it's a worthwhile modification.
Replacing the brand-new stock wires on our BMW 318ti project car with a set from Magnecor gave us around two additional horsepower at the drive wheels, while our Neon got a three-horse bump when we replaced the stock wires with some hot ones. ....
In testing with a variety of cars at our Dyno Day events, we've found that nearly every vehicle benefited from having the stock wires replaced with quality aftermarket pieces ...Figure $50 to $150 depending on the application.

Spark Plugs
We also did quite a bit of testing with spark plugs on a different twin-cam Neon. At the end of one frustrating day, we learned that, on a Neon anyway, spark plugs don't make a bit of difference.
We ran the car first with the NGK plugs that had been installed since we took delivery of the Neon several years ago. We then tested the car with a variety of supposedly "better" plugs-hotter, colder, split electrode, pointy electrode. (No matter what your poison, good plugs cost less than a couple of bucks each.) In this case, all of them produced roughly the same power: within one horsepower, plus or minus.
Unfortunately, this was two horsepower shy of where we started with the skanky factory plugs. The skanky factory plugs were quickly reinstalled. Our dyno shop swears by NGK plugs.

My plan are some MSD wires (maybe a new MSD coil too) and Autolite plugs.

2k2patriotblueneon · Post by **2k2patriotblueneon** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:31 pm

I got crane 8.5s....on stock champion coppers....fine by me.

TomZ · Post by **TomZ** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 8:55 am

MSD wires, Bosch Platinum +4s. Changed the wires, coil (MSD) and plugs when I got a P0303 (#3 cyl misfire) code. That was before I learned the code is bogus, caused by the UDP. I've noticed no difference from the stock setup. I'll try the NGKs next time.

Vernon · Post by **Vernon** » Thu Nov 25, 2004 8:52 pm

I've got Taylor Plug wires and bosch platinum plugs. Does the trick.

Savior00 · Post by **Savior00** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 12:59 am

I Have always had a heavy foot but my milage seems to have gone down tons....A while back I had to replace an o2 sensor and my milage was terrible

SInce then I have replaced ignition (screamin deamon) wires (msd)and plugs (platimum 2+)

My setup is in Km/h ...When I first got the car I was gettin about 400 km on a full tank. Now ive only been getting around 300-350max.

Somone told me it may have to do with the thermostat.
anyone know for sure?
It makes sense because my car takes forever to heat up in the winter

LourdeK · Post by **LourdeK** » Mon Dec 13, 2004 2:00 pm

I have MSD superconductors and NGK V powers.
I noticed the wires did make a difference with startup and idle quality. Everything seems a lot smoother now. But then again, my #3 wire was toast, or at least on it's way

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Fri Dec 31, 2004 11:35 am

Over here on my 02 R/T......
Mopar Performance wires(blue in color)
NGK Iridium plugs (stock repl heat range)
My old 03 SXT averaged 25-28mpg with my heavy foot. This setup on my Ex-SXT made a drastic improvement over stock. Also from experience working from DC and from what I see in the shop, the RC9YC's suck royaly. Hell for that matter, FYI....the 2.4's spark plug was actually supersceded to a knew number as per TSB.
My buddy with a STG 1 SRT with my boost control is running one heat range colder in his car using NGK Iridiums, and he loves it.
I recomended these to a DC rep and he uses stock heat range in his 2nd gen mitsu and he also now sweares by them.

dancingfroggy · Post by **dancingfroggy** » Fri Dec 31, 2004 1:53 pm

Vernon wrote:I've got Taylor Plug wires and bosch platinum plugs. Does the trick.

exact same setup here

3Bar_Mopar · Post by **3Bar_Mopar** » Fri Feb 04, 2005 1:53 am

DO NOT USE the Bosch Platinums if your car is boosted......they tend to fall apart under high cylinder pressures. Other than cracked, chipped or missing porcelain, I have seen the tips eroded way down inside the porcelain on at least one plug from the set.....just a word of advise.

I started off using the Champion Copper plugs on my turbo cars, but I'm starting to like the NGKs better....they make a plug with a recessed porcalain and tip that's flush with the threaded end of the plug.....cleared up completely some mild detonation I had under boost.
Switched from the Champ Coppers in the Neon to V powers and the idle cleared up noticably, along with better throttle response.

Louie · Post by **Louie** » Fri Feb 04, 2005 1:57 am

3Bar_Mopar wrote:DO NOT USE the Bosch Platinums if your car is boosted......they tend to fall apart under high cylinder pressures. Other than cracked, chipped or missing porcelain, I have seen the tips eroded way down inside the porcelain on at least one plug from the set.....just a word of advise.

I started off using the Champion Copper plugs on my turbo cars, but I'm starting to like the NGKs better....they make a plug with a recessed porcalain and tip that's flush with the threaded end of the plug.....cleared up completely some mild detonation I had under boost.
Switched from the Champ Coppers in the Neon to V powers and the idle cleared up noticably, along with better throttle response.

correction. dont use bosch platinums ...PERIOD.

due to our ignition design 2 of them get fired wrong. .and melt. champions or ngk. .go with whats tried and proven

3Bar_Mopar · Post by **3Bar_Mopar** » Fri Feb 04, 2005 11:50 am

Louie wrote:
correction. dont use bosch platinums ...PERIOD.

due to our ignition design 2 of them get fired wrong. .and melt. champions or ngk. .go with whats tried and proven

Hmmm...thanks for the info, I didn't know that!
How do they get fired wrong exactly, do you know?

Louie · Post by **Louie** » Sat Feb 05, 2005 1:50 am

i had a diagram somewhere of exactly what happened. but somehting about a polarity switch. 2 fire the right polarity, the other 2 dont

RopeRat1 · Post by **RopeRat1** » Sat Feb 05, 2005 8:35 am

Hey Guys
Neon uses what is called a "waste-spark" ignition system.

Review the 4-stroke cycle. Four strokes of the piston are needed to make one power pulse (INTAKE = piston down, COMPRESSION = piston up, POWER = piston down, EXHAUST = piston up).

Cylinders operate in pairs on even-number cylinder engines. On a Neon, cyl's 1 & 4 operate together and cyl's 2 & 3 operate together. When any one cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke, it's companion cylinder is coming up on the exhaust stroke, etc.

For shits & giggles, let's say cylinder 1 is ready to fire. The engine controller fires the #1 ignition coil that will fire cyl's 1 & 4. The ignition current travels from the coil to the center electrode of cylinder #1 where it jumps the gap to the ground electrode. Current ALWAYS wants to find it's path back to ground. In this case the path to ground is back through cylinder #4 spark plug. The spark in cylinder #4 is "wasted" because it fires at the end of the exhaust stroke when there is no air/fuel mixture. Whatever cylinder is ready to fire, it's companion cylinder gets the wasted spark because it is at the end of it's exhaust stroke.

But here's the kicker. the ignition current is forced to jump from the ground electrode across the gap BACK to the center electrode and then back to the ignition coil. This plug is fired with a reverse polarity. That puts a higher load on the coil pack, plug wires and plugs.

Ignition coil #2 fires cylinders 2 & 3, where the same process occurs. Cylinders 3 & 4 get fired in reverse polarity.

Hope I haven't confused the shit out of ya.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)

eVilcreations · Post by **eVilcreations** » Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:15 am

RopeRat1 wrote:Hey Guys
Neon uses what is called a "waste-spark" ignition system.

Review the 4-stroke cycle. Four strokes of the piston are needed to make one power pulse (INTAKE = piston down, COMPRESSION = piston up, POWER = piston down, EXHAUST = piston up).

Cylinders operate in pairs on even-number cylinder engines. On a Neon, cyl's 1 & 4 operate together and cyl's 2 & 3 operate together. When any one cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke, it's companion cylinder is coming up on the exhaust stroke, etc.

For shits & giggles, let's say cylinder 1 is ready to fire. The engine controller fires the #1 ignition coil that will fire cyl's 1 & 4. The ignition current travels from the coil to the center electrode of cylinder #1 where it jumps the gap to the ground electrode. Current ALWAYS wants to find it's path back to ground. In this case the path to ground is back through cylinder #4 spark plug. The spark in cylinder #4 is "wasted" because it fires at the end of the exhaust stroke when there is no air/fuel mixture. Whatever cylinder is ready to fire, it's companion cylinder gets the wasted spark because it is at the end of it's exhaust stroke.

But here's the kicker. the ignition current is forced to jump from the ground electrode across the gap BACK to the center electrode and then back to the ignition coil. This plug is fired with a reverse polarity. That puts a higher load on the coil pack, plug wires and plugs.

Ignition coil #2 fires cylinders 2 & 3, where the same process occurs. Cylinders 2 & 3 get fired in reverse polarity.

Hope I haven't confused the shit out of ya.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)

Ok, well I'm impressed........

and you are how old?

3Bar_Mopar · Post by **3Bar_Mopar** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:21 am

RopeRat1 wrote: Hope I haven't confused the shit out of ya.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)

Nope, not at all....awesome info!!

RopeRat1 · Post by **RopeRat1** » Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:45 pm

Evil
48yo last October. I think I'm the oldest one here.

Jonathan (RopeRat1)