2.0 idle adjust?

kevin25 · Post by **kevin25** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 3:35 pm

Does this really work? I am having the same problem with my idle, it is around 500rpm when stopped, but not all the time, sometimes it is at 750 but most of the time stays in the 500rpm range. Do you guys suspect it might be the fuel regulator? I already cleaned the IAC, so should I just drill a small hole?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 4:51 pm

Holy bumpage!

Yeah, it would work, what year is your neon? Not that it matters, other than the IAC style. I would try the idle screw first tho.

Either way, it is cheaper than a new IAC motor. The '01 - up are over $100.

What did you clean it with? You could try some penetrating oil to help it move easier. Take a 90º curved pick to push the plunger in/out while spraying some lube. If it is a 2000, this will not work.

Also after cleaning, maybe disconnect the battery, turn on/off the headlight switch, and reconnect the battery. Most times when I reset the PCM, the idle will be high for a bit, until it relearns everything.

kevin25 · Post by **kevin25** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:46 pm

I have a 2004. I heard if you mess with the idle screw the pcm will just take over to idle were it wants. I used throttle body cleaner to clean the iac today. It still did nothing
one member on here had the same problem as me and he said he replaced the fuel regulator and his idle increased after the change
i wonder if i should just do that next

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:28 pm

With out knowing if your fuel pressure is in or out of spec, You may be wasting $ just to see if it raises the idle. Being that idle is one of the modes that uses the least fuel, I think there would be other issues if the pressure was out enough to effect idle. If it was too lean, it would stumble, and too rich, it would open the IAC more, to compensate. Remove the air box lid if applicable, and throttle up then down, and see if you can hear the IAC working. I know with my short ram, it is very audible. And my IAC motor is not even attached to the TB. If you can hear it hissing, then try drilling a hole. (If it isn't "hissing" it isn't working) Stick with 1/8, or 3/16". Those are common rivet sizes. You can always rivet the hole shut if the IAC decides to work the other way. Just use the shortest rivet possible. Or there is epoxy.

Have the injectors ever been cleaned? Dirty injectors could have a huge effect on idle quality. Seafoam in the fuel tank would help a little. Obviously you can't run it at the strength they use in an injector machine.

kevin25 · Post by **kevin25** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:36 am

Thanks for your help. I will wait on the fuel reg for now and try to see if I can hear the iac working today. I must say after I had cleaned the iac and throttle body my idle did go close to 600rpm when in drive and stopped, but it should be higher. Again my problem is fine when in park it gets real low in drive around 600rpm now.
I will try and clean the injectors today, should I use the throttle body cleaner, it says it is safe on sensors?
I did a test today and not sure if this means the iac is working properly or not. In drive and stopped at a light, I turned the wheel to see if the idle would increase, and it did not. I decided to turn on the AC and what do you know the idle went up to around 800rpm. Does this mean anything?
I also noticed since I sprayed the throttle body cleaner through the iac and throttle body itself, my car took longer to start up in the morning? I just wonder if It was just left over spray in the bellow tube or something that caused that?
My car doesn't do it at every stop but when it does do it, I don't like it. When the idle does drop to 500, if I put it in neutral and rev up slightly, then put it back into Drive, it idles good back at 800. This works everytime the idle drops. Though I don't like to have to go through that process each time it happens. I'd rather get this issue fixed once and for all when I can figure out what the hell is causing it. Car runs good other than that one thing.
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Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:49 am

No way to really clean the injectors, as they need to be cycling. That's why they have machines to put them on. It basically simulates them being in the fuel rail, and opens the pintles electrically. The spray is safely contained. Other than what fuel additives are worth, there isn't much you can do, with out the proper equipment.
Some places do it with the injectors in the car, but idk how good that is for the enginge. I guess if it is similiar to Seafoam, no worse than doing a carbon cleanup.

Also don't use carb cleaner on the TB. You can damage it. Use a soap based cleaner. Not that it matters now, but for future reference. There should be cast into the side of the TB, a warning.

Residual carb cleaner may have contributed to a hard start.

kevin25 · Post by **kevin25** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:12 am

I looked up some info and have found that our cars should be 500 RPM in Drive, 700 in Park / Neutral & for manuals a little higher. Is this true?
Will if worse comes to worse I might just go ahead and drill a small 1/8 hole into the butterfly to see what happens.

Post by **racer12306** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:31 am

If there is a problem, I would think it should be fixed. My car has 87,000 or so miles on it, been a while since I looked at the odometer, and is an 04. Zero problems with idling.

kevin25 · Post by **kevin25** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:33 am

What is your idle when warmed up stopped in drive?

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:45 am

A 200 rpm drop in gear is pretty reasonable. A little more with A/C on. The fact that it raises with the A/C on tells me the IAC is working. As long as it is not stalling when coming to a stop, or turning the wheel, most shops/dealers are going to tell you it is normal.

The only thing I can see with drilling a hole is it will be harder to stop in gear, and it may run a little hotter in stop and go traffic, due to the torque converter wanting to push a little harder.

It is one thing I hate abot my Jeep. The stall speed is so low, it constantly pushes even at 500-700 rpm idle. I have to kick it in N in the winter to stop on snow covered surfaces. This is a little different when in 4WD, or for a FWD car, but the extra braking effort is still there. Hell I can usually shorten my braking distance by going into N before stopping. It doesn't help the AW4 isn't the best match for the 4.0 either. But that's another matter...

kevin25 · Post by **kevin25** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:40 pm

Will before i drill, which is my last resort. An Autozone by me has the IAC valve for only $55 so I am going to just buy it and replace, to see what happens, my car has only 42k miles on it but I am just getting sick of this low idle crap. Some people even had said it might be the alternator? Will for now it is going to be step by step, if the new IAC dont work, maybe I will look into new wires, plugs are already new, and possibly new fuel regulator. Than if all else fails time for drilling. I am really curious to what everyone else has done to fix the problem that I am having. i know I heard some people say get the pcm reflashed, any truth to that or just a waste of money?

Post by **racer12306** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:42 pm

Since you have such low mileage, wouldn't this fall under the 7 year/70,000 mile warranty?

esfan · Post by **esfan** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:59 pm

Should 500 rpm be the normal range as long as it doesn't stall? Mine even runs lower when turning the powersteering with the bad switch...

kevin25 · Post by **kevin25** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:38 pm

So I should not buy the IAC valve then?

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:44 pm

If the one you have is working, I doubt a new one will make much difference. The PCM may be able to be reflashed to give a higher target RPM. You would need to check to see if your local dealer would do it under warranty. You could lie, and say it is stalling.

kevin25 · Post by **kevin25** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 3:11 pm

I called the dealer to get it reflashed and told them my problem they said there are alot of updates now and it would help out alot not only with the idle issue but other things as well such as fuel economy.
They said there computer was down so they could not tell if it is going to be covered or not and if i have to pay it is going to be $93. So should i get it done either way?

josie590 · Post by **josie590** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 5:31 am

im needing to do this dramatically.. but i really wish some1 had a pic so i know exactly what i need 2 drill,, because i dont need the hurt and problems that will arise if i drill into the wrong thing lol