"while I'm at it" clutch replacement.

[bbvaliant]

The original clutch in my 2002 R/T is finally starting to slip at 170k miles (I bought the car new so I know it's the original clutch). Since this is a 95% stock original car, I was planning on going with a Luk PT Cruiser clutch for a replacement. I always try to do preventative repairs while I have something apart, so my plan was to also change the throwout bearing, axle seals, diff fluid, rear main seal (I think it's starting to seap), and possibly the clutch master/slave cylinders.

I have a few quick questions for those folks with experience changing Neon clutches:
- Would anyone recommend a different brand of clutch and why?
- What else should be on the "while I'm at it" list of parts to replace?
- Is there anything on the list that I shouldn't do (clutch master/slave cylinders)?
- I've done RWD clutches but not a FWD clutch or a modular clutch, any gotchas to watch out for?

Thanks.

[JeremyJ]

I highly recommend the Luk PT clutch. I put it in my mildly built '02 R/T and it was great. Stock feel with greater power holding. Excellent piece for the money. While you're in there, you should also check the pivot ball. They do wear out over time and they're cheap to replace. As for the slave/master setup, it's never a bad idea to replace those while it's apart. Look for the systems that come together as a pre-bled unit. They bolt right in without any need to bleed, which makes the install pretty easy. And avoid the Dorman brand units. I know the price is usually twice as much, but I'd suggest a Mopar master/slave setup.

[Midnight_Rider]

I had a Mopar clutch installed when mine was replaced several years ago. The pivot ball was replaced at the same time (Mopar as well). The big thing that got by the tech (and myself) is that the master/slave should have been replaced at the same time since the whole front end was out but this is 20/20 hindsight. This means a Mopar master/slave replacement in the future for my SRT.

[bbvaliant]

Thanks Jeremy for the Luk endorsement, and more importantly the "avoid Dorman" recommendation. Where do people get the MoPar M/S combo these days? Rockauto doesn't even have a listing for it (it has 2 others that are "out of stock"), but they only show Perfection Clutch and AMS Automotive as being available for the cylinder combo, any thoughts on these vendors?

Midnight_RIder, thanks for the pivot ball reminder, I'll order one of those as well.

[Midnight_Rider]

bbvaliant, PM sent.

[bbvaliant]

Midnight_Rider: apparently I haven't posted enough forum messages to send or reply to PMs, I'll send you the info as soon as I'm allowed... Thanks.

[Midnight_Rider]

Oh, I didn't think of that. Here is what I sent in a PM:

I found this on eBay- would this work for a slave unit?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294033020915?f ... Sw5J5gN~FC

[occasional demons]

VIN not needed for a Master/slave assembly, all were the same, except for SRT. Or if it had RHD, and/or the 1.6 liter engine (Export).

It's pretty obvious in this situation as to what you have.

4668631AD ACTUATOR ECB, ECH DD5 Hydraulic Clutch Master
4668331AB CYLINDER ECB, ECH DD5 Clutch Slave


Optional pieces:
4670268 1 DD5 CLIP, Clutch Tube Mounting
4668893AA 1 DD5 CLIP, Clutch Tube Mounting

These are plastic, and might be destroyed removing them.

[Midnight_Rider]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353447951368?e ... SwHlFgbftT

Thanks to OD's information, this might be the clutch master you're looking for.

[INVUJerry]

I've never had a clutch master go bad, but my slave cylinder did crack and left me almost stranded 20 miles from home. I drove home without using the clutch as much as possible.

Since you'll have it out, I'd take a look at doing the axle seals, and the rear main seal on the engine. The rear main was a source of a big leak for me in my daily I got from Racer12306, but it's been fine since then.

I will say, do not use an ebay branded clutch. I put one in the car that I had laying around, and after 23K miles of driving it started slipping when I start getting stuck in heavy traffic. Hoping it can last until spring.

[Midnight_Rider]

I will say, do not use an ebay branded clutch.

I agree- that's why I posted the link for a Mopar replacement part.

I bought both a Mopar clutch master and clutch slave and plan to have them installed in the spring when I have my annual oil change.

[INVUJerry]

The clutch I put in my car is an XTD brand, if I could do it again I’d get a Luk clutch.

I’d only replace the master and slave cylinder if they’re broken. I have an autozone slave cylinder in mine and it’s been fine.