MTX PPL HELP!!!

infil · Post by **infil** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:53 pm

gotta get on it with a pin punch and beat the crap out of it. heat it lightly with mapp gas or oxyacetylene, just be careful, that is aluminum hehe.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 5:23 am

damn it... looks like Im gonna have to take it to someone with the proper tools, because I sure as hell dont have them...

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:03 am

by the looks of it neither do I

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 7:53 am

see now only if there was a way to drive something through the hole so I can be able to shift, because sadly I dont have another car that I can temporarily drive...

infil · Post by **infil** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:33 pm

kind of a halfassed fix, but get a good quality pin punch thats snug in the hole, drive it through, leave 1/4" or so on either side of the arm, then break the punch off and bend the ends up to lock it in. hehe. We are neon owners dammit, we are the masters of ghetto engineering!!!

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 9:50 pm

^ see and that is exactly what I did cept it was with a nail and half of a roll pin that I cut with a dremel and then forced on with a hammer, and some how either it sheared off or fell out, and thats how I got stuck on the side of the highway for four hours...

King Crab · Post by **King Crab** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:57 pm

It's been awhile and I wanted to see if you've fixed this problem yet? I hope so.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:19 pm

nope I never really fixed it, I actually took a nail that was big enough to fit through the hole and dremeled both ends of it off took a roll pin that was big enough to fit in the hole and cut it in half and hammered the pin pieces on to both sides of the nail and Ive been driving ever since. I know it kid of a half ass fix but its actually holding up pretty good.

King Crab · Post by **King Crab** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:29 pm

Well, it really doesn't matter what it looks like just as long as it holds up to the test of time, and it sounds like you're on way. I'll keep my fingers crossed that you've nailed it... (sorry had too)...

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:33 pm

Thanks It's appreciated

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:55 am

CRAP, I forgot to repost here!
I've been so busy lately I forgot to let you know I finally got it out!
Keep in mind my trani is out of the car when I did this!
http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/ ... Prod100070
I picked the above torch up at home depot...

Link

Grabbed my torx #20 screwdriver and a hammer....

I postioned the torch on the transmission to where it blows a half throttled flame onto the shifter arm itself. Walked away for 5 minutes working on another project, came back, removed the torch, aligned the #20 screwdriver up with the roll pin and hammered it right out.
I tried without heating it up and it was a waste of time, once it was heated up the pin slid out without a problem. Just remember not to grab the shift lever or roll pin until they cool off..

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 6:58 pm

UPDATE: after about a good month of drving around... my temporary fix has failed as of about 5 minutes ago, thank god I wasnt on the side of the road again and it happend at my house. So now Im back to square one... timing couldnt be worse... no car, no money, no job.

Im through I dont know what to fucking do....

jrumann59 · Post by **jrumann59** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:03 am

the question is why are you getting so much resistance to break anything in there. I would take that pin to an auto parts store and see if they have anything similar in stock until you can figure out how to stop breaking them.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:11 am

edited my post...

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:30 am

jrumann59 wrote:the question is why are you getting so much resistance to break anything in there.

See thats what Im wondering myself, I dont shift hard, Im gentle when it comes to my shifts.

King Crab · Post by **King Crab** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:02 pm

Hey Sean - I'm sorry man, I feel like such a schmuk.

I should've left well enough alone.

I hope since BlackRoseRacing was able to give us some insight on how to fix it, you’ll be able to benefit from it.

Just know that I’m truly concerned for a fellow Neon family member. Best of luck!

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:17 pm

Thanks david, its all good I knew eventually it would happen, just that it happens at the most inconvenient time.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 2:14 pm

Another update: I did the same thing as before with the nail except I took a 9/64" drill bit and dremeled the top of it off and used the solid metal and did the same thing by driving the roll pin onto the bottom half of the bit. Hopefully this will hold up a lil bit better till I can actually afford to get it fixed.. O and BRR you have a Pm.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:06 pm

Guesss what... Im back to having problems again with the shifter... Does anyone think that if I were to heat up the selector and then try to drill out whats left? I could do that? Its been raining for like 3 days straight so I havent had the opportunity to check it out yet. What are my other options?

aperson · Post by **aperson** » Thu Mar 20, 2008 12:09 am

Looks like heat would do it, but find out how to replace that seal just in case you fry it.
Once you get it out, I would try grinding a flat spot into the shaft and have someone weld some filler into the lever part then replace the pin, or once its back together, drill a hole half in the shaft and half into the lever and put a roll pin in there so that all the pressure isn't on the first pin.

Just my .02

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:42 pm

yea idk, I just gotta try somethin, bc this problem is really starting to get OLD...

lilolneon · Post by **lilolneon** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:31 am

Yay thread necro!!! (sorry)

I had this problem this morning on the way to work, dealership said the roll pin... "came loose and popped out" and said that Chrysler doesn't have a part for it that they can order. So they said they are going to Mushroom it =/ Anyone know what the actual part number is for this pin? Don't like the idea of having a temp fix to something that may happen again.

(Still haven't changed my sig lol)

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:51 pm

^ OMGWTFBBQ!!!!!!! when was the last time you came around here????

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:01 pm

Oh, and it was Sep 20, 2009 Sam

I wish I could find a number for you, but alas, I cannot

chipdogg · Post by **chipdogg** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:08 pm

These roll pins:

???

I know the thread is old, but people still check it apparently. (someone searched!!!).

To remove them, you need a good ROLL PIN PUNCH and a good hammer. The pins like to get stuck. I usually need an air hammer (not a cheap one either) to work them back and forth until I can get them out with the roll pin punch.

They aren't cotter pins, they are roll pins. They are tightly rolled and go all the way to the center so they have tension on them and do not break as easily. If you use the wrong pin, it's gonna break.

Drilling them isn't gonna be a fun way to go, they are harder than most drill bits anyways, so they'll dull your bit. And if you drill them out, now the hole isn't the proper shape/size and the next one will break faster. Roll pins rely on a tight fit, if it's loose, the roll pins crack from the constant banging/rattling back and forth.

The crossover levers (small one) like to seize onto the shaft, I usually use my air hammer to beat them off and just replace them. I can get new ones for like $20. Sure beats spending hours trying to get them off.

As for heat, there is an oil seal underneath each one. It's not as important as, say, the axle seals since they are on the top. There is also a bushing that the selector shafts pass through. Oil has to get splashed up, pass through the bushing, and then out the seal. You could live with a bad seal up there depending on your tolerance of such things.

I can send you 2 of the correct roll pins for $10.

Here's the roll pin punches I use:

http://www.mactools.com/ShopOnline/Prod ... fault.aspx

http://www.mactools.com/ShopOnline/Prod ... fault.aspx

I also use them at work all the time since it seems roll pins hold together Crown forklifts.

I've found that the craftsman ones are too soft and bend too easily, and the ones from Farm and Fleet are too hard and like to shatter when you hit them twice. The little nub in the middle help tremendously. I usually hold them with a pair of vice grips.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:49 pm

FWIW, the PN is 4762603

Should be $3.20 each, list price, if they are actually still available.

lilolneon · Post by **lilolneon** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 8:41 pm

dblsg wrote:^ OMGWTFBBQ!!!!!!! when was the last time you came around here????

Too long apparently lol.