Clutch Area Clicking

shinta86 · Post by **shinta86** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 4:19 pm

So I just replaced my transmission, clutch and throwout bearing. Now when I press on the clutch pedal all the way down (clutch is fully engaged?), I get this soft clicking sound. As I let up on the clutch it gets softer until it goes away. Does anyone have any ideas?

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 4:56 pm

IDK what your sound is, but pressing the clutch pedal in disengages it, and (if your car is like mine and the other few 5-speed 2gn's i've driven), you shouldn't need to depress the clutch more than an inch or so to fully disengage it. you should only hit floorboard when starting the car. I don't know if pressing it in all the way puts more wear on the clutch/TOB, but why do what you don't have to?

OB · Post by OB » Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:58 am

You should always fully disengage the clutch when shifting, pressing the pedal down halfway may result in early wear to the clutch disc and or throw out bearing.

You might wanna describe the sound a bit better. Does it sputter? does it sound like its slipping on and off? Is it more of a chatter? how long have you been driving on the new setup? did u break the clutch in at all or did you just start off driving normally?

shinta86 · Post by **shinta86** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 3:47 am

Well, the sound actually disappeared now. I noticed it right after I started the car (immediately after finishing the transmission swap) and pushed in the clutch. How exactly do break it in?

It sounded as if one of the fins on the clutch was hitting something, but it sounded like plastic not metal.

Another problem I am having now is that the brakes require me to push the pedal almost all the way down to acquire any decent breaking power. They feel very spongy though out the entire distance. I checked the brake fluid and it is fine. When I get a chance, I will take the wheels off and look at it. Any ideas?

OB · Post by OB » Wed Jun 27, 2007 3:22 pm

I'd suggest bleeding the brakes asap. They either have water or some other contamination in them. Change it out for some fresh fluid. Since the clutch slave cylinder shares fluid with the brake system, you may be killing two birds with one stone. Be sure to check for any leaks that may have happened while you were servicing the trans. The difference in wear alone may cause pedal pressure differences, but the brake pedal should not be affected unless you messed with the fluid. Did you lose any of the fluid in the clutch system when doing the service?

shinta86 · Post by **shinta86** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 4:49 pm

Nope. All I did was disconnect the caliper and hang it to the spring. The clutch system was only unbolted as well. I will bleed the brakes as soon as I get a chance though. I can't make up my mind if I want to do a SRT brake swap or just get some powerslots and hawk pads. What is your opinion?

OB · Post by OB » Thu Jun 28, 2007 1:40 am

Hard to say. Since you already have rear discs, there's really no need to swap for the srt rears. The rear brakes do very little of the braking as it is, so it wouldnt be worth the time or money. however, upgrading to power slots all around w/ some good hawk hp's should be a great setup. I honestly dont know how the stock srt setup would compare performance wise. The srt setup would allow a wider range of future upgrades though, so it might be a good choice for the fronts if you ever plan on swapping for a mean brake setup.