Draining and refilling MTX

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:19 pm

Quick question: Is it ok to just drain the old stuff, and refill with the new RP Synchromax right away? Or is it better to drain the old, refill with something cheap like Penz Synchromesh, run that for 4-5K, and then drain and refill with the good RP stuff?

Post by **racer12306** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:26 pm

Yeah, you can do that no problem. Drive it to get it hot, then the fluid will be at its thinnest and then pull the plug.

I did an intermediate fill using Pennzoil Synchromesh because I was switching from ATF+4 to Redline MTL.

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 6:04 pm

Eh..the driving part might be a little hard since the car is on jackstands. Should I just put off changing it until I can drive the car? I was wanting to change it while the car was "under construction" instead of waiting to do it a seperate time.

Post by **racer12306** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:42 pm

It would probably be better to do a hot drain, but since it is similar fluids it shouldn't be too bad.

If you would prefer to do it now since it's convenient, there won't be a problem. People get less effective fluid changes at quickie lubes.

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:56 am

Thanks Frank. I'm going to go ahead and do it tomorrow evening, and then start putting everything back together that I've had torn apart for the last 2 months....

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:26 pm

whee!!! will she be up and running then?

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:08 pm

kc2002acr wrote:whee!!! will she be up and running then?

I hope. If fixing everything I've fixed, and servicing the transmission doesn't get rid of the banging from the tranny, then I'm just going to drive it until something obvious breaks or falls off, lol. All the bottom end seals are still leaking pretty bad, but I will probably not pull the entire engine until at least next summer. No money for that now, especially with the holidays.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 12:26 pm

you read the post about with mad_merios, or whatever his name is...? I bet you are having similar problems with noise like all of us

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 6:40 pm

kc2002acr wrote:you read the post about with mad_merios, or whatever his name is...? I bet you are having similar problems with noise like all of us

Actually, no surprisingly. It's nothing of the sort. My tranny has always been totally silent on startup, etc. My main problem was that the fluid was low and really old, along with the fact that the tranny side mount was getting weak and letting it flop around when I'd shift quickly.

King Crab · Post by **King Crab** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:15 pm

I thought that you do not have to change the MTX fluid ever. I'm I misinformed?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:22 pm

If you change the fluid, here is what I was told to use by a higher up

Amsoil MTF
Apparently tests of various fluids show that the Amsoil MTF is rated #1 for our transmissions. Mobil 1 apparently does not compare to the lubricating properties of the Amsoil MTF...
Just an FYI...

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:11 pm

King Crab wrote:I thought that you do not have to change the MTX fluid ever. I'm I misinformed?

My FSM says the same thing. But, mine's leaked enough out over 107K miles that it's low, and instead of just adding a little more new stuff, it surely can't hurt to put brand new Royal Purple MTX fluid in it. I'll update this thread once I'm driving the car again to weigh in on my opinion of the Royal Purple fluid.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:28 pm

FYI:
Royal Purple was rated just a tad bit higher than the Chrysler MTF thats recomended.....and not by much....

King Crab · Post by **King Crab** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 4:40 pm

Thanks quicksilvr for the input

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:37 pm

I drove the car for the first time in over 3 months yesterday. Tranny seems to shift just fine. I'll need to report back again though, AFTER I've removed the dang solid JLM upper torque strut. That thing make the whole car shimmy something terrible. It's

ing. I can't drive it like that any more, so I need to put the stock mount back on, and just use the Prothane insert. So anyway, I think the tranny is going to shift great, but I couldn't really tell with all the horrible vibrations going through the car the whole time from that mount.

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:00 pm

solid mounts ftw. I don't even notice them unless the ac or defrost is on.

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:50 pm

Wenuden wrote:solid mounts ftw. I don't even notice them unless the ac or defrost is on.

I would normally agree. I've ridden in cars with solid mounts before and it was definately ok. This is not ok. Maybe it's because the car has 108K on it, I dunno. Literally when I accelerate through the 1300-3000 rpm range the side mirrors shake so badly that the mirror hits the plastic casing. The seats vibrate like a coin operated bed. The center console moans and the door panels shudder louder than the radio at full volume. It feels like the whole car is going through a giant cheese grater. It's absolutley, 100%

ing, and I will not drive the car like that anymore.

FTWNeon · Post by **FTWNeon** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:16 pm

I know what you mean, I had solid mounts at one time and I couldn't stand em. Horrible vibrations thoughout the whole car. Got a set of filled stockers and I have to say thats the best way to go.

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:49 pm

Do you have solid mounts all the way around, or just the upper torque strut?

I had the lower block bolt come out on me when I first installed the mounts (shoulda used loc-tite like they recommended), and got some bad vibrations from that on the low end.

My only problem with the inserts is they don't make one for the trans mount.

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 11:32 pm

Wenuden wrote:Do you have solid mounts all the way around, or just the upper torque strut?

I had the lower block bolt come out on me when I first installed the mounts (shoulda used loc-tite like they recommended), and got some bad vibrations from that on the low end.

My only problem with the inserts is they don't make one for the trans mount.

I filled my trans mount. It's just like one of the Deyeme mounts now. Except like $100 cheaper.

So I've got: Filled trans mount, stock lower torque strut with red "race" Prothane insert, and the JLM solid billet upper mount. I'm just going to switch back to the stock upper mount with the Prothane race insert and call it good. The JLM might be for sale, or I might hold onto it. I dunno.

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:32 am

not to hack but i got atf 4 so i need to do penz sync first then like rp?

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 5:35 pm

Personally I would. I don't like mixing two different kinds of fluids, even if only a very small amount of ATF+4 is left.