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ok so when im driving i heard this higher pitch whine noise coming frommy passenger floorboard...itsd only noticable over about 50 mph and gets louder when i turn right. if i turn left the noise gets quieter...

I was told my passenger side cv was leaking in the inner boot not the outer boot....could this be the cause of this noise??

The cv joint usually doesn't make a high pitched sound when it's bad, usually it' starts to pop and vibrate more than anything. If I had to guess, I'd say wheel bearing or maybe some PS related problem. It's hard to really say though.

Yea, you will definitely notice loud popping noises when turning (and while going straight if it gets bad enough) if you have a CV issue.

Hmm, a high pitched whining from the passenger side...? Right off the bat I am thinking it could be one of the belts, but if it is getting louder when taking turns I am leaning towards the P/S system (as Donkey mentioned). Does it feel like the P/S is struggling or maybe not working as well as it used to? How is your fluid level?

im gonna say its ur wheel bearing!! i had the same thing in my intrepid and it was the wheel bearing.

Most likely it's your wheel bearing. The noise changing depending on what direction you are turning is the give away.

ok so yeah i was driving today its more noticable around 40-70 mph i was going down the highway and if i moved the wheel slightly right it got louder and i went slightly left it was non exsistant. it sounds like a higher pitched humming sound but its faint:( so its the wheel bearing? i am assuming the passenger side. Where is it/how much is it/ how the hell do i fix it lol I am getting realli tired of this cars bitch fits

Turning the car to the right = louder usually means it would be the left side wheel bearing. The load increases on the outer side of the turn. You need to remove the knuckle to have it pressed out/in.

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whats the best way to check to see if its bad? and if it takes a twelve ton press i am fucked i do not have the time parts or money to send to the shop nor do i have access to a 12 ton press sigh

Jack up the car, properly supporting it, and wiggle the top/bottom of the tire. If there is noticeable slop, then it is a problem. If turning the tire by hand feels notchy, the bearing is going to fail horribly very soon.

A ghetto solution, would be to get a complete knuckle assy from a newer JY arrival that preferably has rear damage, and swap the whole thing. May not be the most recommended way, as there are risk that it may not be any better, but tough times....

so im probably looking at 200 bucks to replace if i take it to a shop or morE?

It actually an easy fix if you have the tools...do you have the tools I might be able to talk you through it.

the problem like i said is i dont have a 12 ton press to press the bearing out. so thats where im going to run into an issue i mean i could take the knuckle off and get the knuckle on but no way of getting the bearing in and out

I think new hub assy's come with the bearings pressed on, but you still need to have it pressed into the knuckle, and the old pressed out.

right which means i might as well see how much a shop will charge cause i wont be able to press it in

No, when it comes to that step you take it to a shop with a press and they will do it for fairly cheap.

ALOT cheaper then getting a mech to do it.

ok so ur saying buy a whole new "hub"? then have a machine shop press the bearing into place in the hub then attach the hub to the knuckle myself am i getting this right?

If you buy a hub assy, then take the knuckle, disassembled to the point of pressing the old bearing/hub assy out of the knuckle, to a parts store that has a machine shop.

Then all they need to do is press the bearing/hub assy out, place the new one in place and press it in. You pay them for the press fee, take the knuckle home and reinstall it into the car.

If you scribe around the strut/knucle mating surface before removal, then it should be pretty close on reassembly, as far as alignment goes.

Most Parts stores like NAPA, or similiar that still do machine work have a press. They usually charge no more than $10 to $20 per press, so you may have to pay $20 to $40 to have it pressed out/in.

o napa has a press??? didnt know that ok ill have to see if i can find an assembly and then how to disassemble everything

onewickedkid05 wrote:o napa has a press??? didnt know that ok ill have to see if i can find an assembly and then how to disassemble everything

Well the actual NAPA parts stores around here don't have a machine shop at each location, but they have a central 'NAPA machine shop' where I was sent when I needed bearings pressed in/out. It cost me $15 per side, so $30 total. I didn't think that was too bad at all. I dropped it off and came back in a few hours to pick everything up.

ok so where can i go to get the whole hub.

Thanks in Advanced guys

Most parts stores sell hub assy's. Yeah, I didn't mean all Napa stores have a machine shop, but it is a good place to start looking. 20 years ago, most did, but then there were full service gas stations then too. Your best bet may be the yellow pages.

occasional demons wrote:Your best bet may be the yellow pages.

Yupp, I would have a look in there. Hell you can even just call NAPA and say what machine shop would you recommend. If there is a 'NAPA machine shop' in your area, that is the first one they will recommend.

well i noticed when looking thast i have a white/gray grease all over the Driver side CV boot. it kinda looks like lithium from when they put my rack and pinion in but we could hear the inside of it a little when the wheel was turning.

Im gonna try replacing the CV first and if it still whines ill go for the bearing

ok so its not the axle i replaced it im convinced it has to be the bearing. Now since AAA sells the whole assembly how hard is this to install.

Will it require pushing the bushings out since im replacing everything or do i just uninstall the hub and reinstall the new one?

Would it be the passenger side or driver seeing as im hearing it from the passenger and it gets louder when turning to the right? feedback would be appreciated

come on fellas bump

Usually it's the outside wheel that's bad when making a turn, especially if the noise stops when turning the opposite direction.

The best way to diagnose is to move to wheel with your hands at 6 and 12, with the wheel up in the air of course. My drivers side is bad and sounds like a rusty hinge when I turn right.

Yea, just get the car up in the air and try to shake the wheel (as Donkey described above). If there is free play then you have a shot bearing.

A friend of mine's SRT was just having the same symptoms as your car. We jacked the car up and sure enough the passenger side bearing was shot to all hell.