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Ok so my CV axle change didnt go as planned. After finding out ours are not sealed and watching all my tranny oil leak out i put the new driver side axle in (i thought) bolted everything back up and guess what its still leaking slightly it only has maybe 1/8 inch to go. IS there anyway to get this thing in there it seems like it doesnt want to go in.

ALSO problem #2 is I HAVE NO CLUE what tranny fluid to use. I hear to use atf-4 then i hear thats bad then i hear use redline purple 1 10w-30 mobile one

I NEED A DEFINATE THIS IS WHAT YOUR SUPPOSED TO USE. and pleaseeee dont tell me i need to go to the dealer because noone is open sunday and i need the car monday.

so please ill be up in 8 hours i need to know WHAT OIL is Recommeneded for a 2000 dodge neon Manual Transmission


Thanks

Assuming the '00 uses the same as the '01, Redline MTL is the best as far as cost compared the the factory fill. I wouldn't use ATF, as IDK how it will mix with what remains in there.
The half shaft should go in relatively easy. The seal isn't pushed in, making it appear to be not fully inserted? Edit:Did you compare the new vs old to be sure the stub lengths are the same? Possibly the new one is bottomed against the cross pin. Prolly not, but it could happen.

I personally would get a seal puller, and new seal to be safe. You are prolly looking at around $20 for both.

A light gear oil will prolly get you by in a pinch, then drain it once you get some MTL or oem oil.
Summit sells MTL, but unless you feel like a nice Sunday drive, I doubt you would get it by Monday. Edit: Holy shit, a 6 hour drive, I guess that's out!

I have seen warnings not to use motor oil, and I have seen posts that you can. I cannot honestly say it is safe, since I don't really know, so I'm not going to recommend it.

where did you get the "new" axle from?

i got a new axle from advance auto parts (new, not reman).. whatever brand it was, for less than 70... but the retainer ring on the axle was malformed-- and i didnt notice until the very end that the axle was not seated in the transmission properly..

thats something to check, if you didnt in the first place

ok well look it LOOKS in


everything is bolted back up in place no problems
BUT it was still dripping oil after we installed the new shaft and i mean 20 min later
so i dont know if its not in all the way if the seal is broken or what



What seal are you referring too and where am i pulling it out from

Sorry 6 hours to do a cv and fail has never happened to me before i am shocked and awed

and i mean i need oil tomorrow at the latest do they sell redline here in PA anywhere or is there somewhere i can get an oil that will work


walmart
autozone
advanceauto
pepboys
napa

i did get it at advanced auto how would i check to see if its malformed

well youd have to take the axle out again to see it... but the axle i bought that had this problem was GSP CV Axle Shaft Assembly ... if thats what you got then you MIGHT have a problem..

the retainer ring is supposed to be perfectly round, but the one that was on mine each end of the ring instead of being perfectly round they notched out (kind of like <>) and made it impossible to get the axle in properly.

any1 else want to chime in

as in where i can find a gear fluid to buy

quote="onewickedkid05"]
What seal are you referring too and where am i pulling it out from
[/quote]

The seal where it goes in. it has a steel outer ring that presses into the diff housing

Looks similiar to this

Stores that sell Redline oil

Seal puller

you are the man i see everyones using Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Transmission Fluid can u use the 75w 90 they make or is that not good?


im assuming im going to have to drain it fully not sure where that is

and since MTL is This 70W80 GL-4 Gear Oil (SAE 5W30/10W30
the equiviliant to 5w30 motor oil can mobil 1 synthentic be used/any be used. Or is that wishful thinking

The drain plug is on the very bottom where the diff is. (between the two axle shafts) It is on the passenger side of it. The fill plug is on the driver side. I just pull out the reverse light switch and fill from the top. Just pull the rubber fill plug (mine was rubber) and fill from the reverse switch hole until the fliud begins to come out the fill hole.

IDK about the RP oil viscosity.
Maybe their web site can shed some light for what the application is?
Edit:

onewickedkid05 wrote: and since MTL is This 70W80 GL-4 Gear Oil (SAE 5W30/10W30
the equiviliant to 5w30 motor oil can mobil 1 synthentic be used/any be used. Or is that wishful thinking

Where ever you seen 70w80 being equivelent to 5/10w30 that is wrong. plus GL has extreme pressure additives, that motor oil does not. Besides you are only saving what $10 by going to motor oil? Just not worth it IMO If you had to buy 100 quarts maybe, but it only takes what 3 or 4?

ok so as for the axle itself................the seal may be screwed up
or the axle itself? cause like i said........IT LOOKS in and Everything is bolted back together which in my mind means the axle would have to be in place otherwise i wouldnt of been able to get everything together

The cv joints would take up/allow for minor differences in length. If it stuck out slightly more than it should, it should be ok, as long as the amount isn't enough to cause the cv joints to bottom out at full suspension compression. I think even an 1/8" would be fine. If the stub was too short, it would be hitting the face of the seal. that would not be good. But obviously that isn't the issue. I think if you get the seal replaced, you should be fine. If the axle was sticking out 1/2" then there would be problems. Since it needs pulled to change the seal, just check between the old and new for differences/measurements.

lol redlines mtl gear oil is not sold at pepboys autozone or advanced says they only stock the wetter stuff so thats out.......i picked up plain jane 80w90 but im afraid to use it

For short term, it should be fine. The shifter may feel a bit harder to move, and gas mileage might be affected minutely, due to the oil not flowing as freely as synthetic. Leave it in for winter, and you will really notice it.

Can they at least order it for you? Might beat paying Summit $10 for handling fees. Average price is $8 to $10/qt. IIRC the oem fluid is $17/qt

well i can order it thats not a problem

I just need something to throw into there

redline mtl is a 70w-80
Royal purple makes a 75-90
also they make the syncromesh

when i pull up royal purples website i get this
Chrylser Transaxles 1995 & newer, all models (MS9417 / PN04874465 & PN4773167) ----Synchromax

however all the dodge trucks and the viper use the 75w-90

i can pick up 75w-90 if u think it would be better then the 80w-90 i have

MS9417 is what should be in yours.

75w90 might be a little better. It will be the same when hot, but move better when cold.

right but ms9417 doesnt help me with the weight lol so i have no idea what thats the equiviliant too

MTL is supposed to be the replacement for MS9417, so I would go with that. (for viscosity) IDK if you can find an 80 for the hot temp in GL-4. example: (75w80) But for short term any should work. Draining/refilling will be cake compared to changing the seal. (Time/effort wise)

I got to go, I'll be back on later this afternoon.

seal question though do i need the shaft seal the output shaft seal what?

onewickedkid05 wrote:Everything is bolted back together which in my mind means the axle would have to be in place otherwise i wouldnt of been able to get everything together

not exactly true. i thought my axle was in properly, had everything back together, WENT FOR A TEST DRIVE, and then found out the axle was not in the tranny properly.


oh yeah, and not sure about the seal you want... since the 2 of them listed on advance auto website do not look like the one i bought for my car for 99 cents.

ok well i bought the seal got back to the place pulled it all apart put it in got the axle back in place


as far as oil i went with

Penzoil Syncromesh it said for use in special chrysler gm cars not quite the same as royal purple but i think it should do the trick

Pennzoil Synchromesh is fine. It's what I used in my 98 for the longest time, I never had any problems.

I saw you bought the gear oil and I was like "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO".

Glad you got it figured out.

Do not use any sort of gear oil. In your case use the mopar nv t350 lube, gm synchromesh, or equivalent replacement like penzoil or the like. Gear oil is not cool in our trannies, way too thick. You can use atf, it was factory fill, but the syncromesh stuff is better. There's a multitude of other oils you can use, but unless you understand what happens when you use them stick with stok fills.

i got the syncromesh a little thicker i think to shift but eh