Clutch / Hydraulic Problem - FIXED

[nerox]

installed the boogers on the transmission today

popped the old ones off easy enough, and the new ones went on fairly easy, only thing i have noticed is that the round plastic bit that is on the end of the arm slides up and down the bushing quite easily, is this normal or have i done it wrong?

they clicked into place and the pin is flush with the top of the bushing as said in the instructions

[NickKo]

installed the boogers on the transmission today

popped the old ones off easy enough, and the new ones went on fairly easy, only thing i have noticed is that the round plastic bit that is on the end of the arm slides up and down the bushing quite easily, is this normal or have i done it wrong?

they clicked into place and the pin is flush with the top of the bushing as said in the instructions

I don't think they should move THAT easy.

I put a large E-clip on mine, as 'added insurance'.
I don't *think* it will go anywhere, even if I did not e-clip it... but I don't want to find out the hard way.

- Nick

[nerox]

It looks like this:



(thats not my pic but good example)

as you can see on the left bushing the plastic ring on the arm dosen't sit at the top of the bushing and has the ability to slide down upto, probably about 5mm down, even when all the way down its still on the bushing and they dont seem to have slipped on their own.

this is the same on both bushings

I did grease them quite a bit when i put them on, maybe that dosen't help

[NickKo]

"A picture is worth a thousand words".

The bushings themselves won't come off the shifter levers, but the cable ends are free to slide up and down.

What you might want to do, is put a large rubber o-ring under the cable end, to take up some of the slack and limit movement.
At least, that is what I would do.

- Nick

[nerox]

UPDATE

i have noticed in the past couple of days something strange, regarding the problem mentioned at the start of this post (still not fixed)

(when stationary and in gear with clutch pedal all the way down) when its cold it only takes a tiny bit of pedal movement to get the clutch to engage and start the car moving.

but when the engine is warmed up (and the problem is no longer apparent) the pedal needs to be much higher up to engage the clutch and get the car moving (the same sort of position it has always been)

so my thought is that when the engine is cold something is making the clutch engage when the pedal is hardly moved, perhaps meaning that when the pedal is all the way to the floor it hasn't actually disengaged, causing the difficulty putting into gear etc.

any ideas what could cause this problem ... PLEASE !!!

[NickKo]

UPDATE

i have noticed in the past couple of days something strange, regarding the problem mentioned at the start of this post (still not fixed)

(when stationary and in gear with clutch pedal all the way down) when its cold it only takes a tiny bit of pedal movement to get the clutch to engage and start the car moving.

but when the engine is warmed up (and the problem is no longer apparent) the pedal needs to be much higher up to engage the clutch and get the car moving (the same sort of position it has always been)

so my thought is that when the engine is cold something is making the clutch engage when the pedal is hardly moved, perhaps meaning that when the pedal is all the way to the floor it hasn't actually disengaged, causing the difficulty putting into gear etc.

any ideas what could cause this problem ... PLEASE !!!

This sounds like an issue with the clutch slave cylinder to me.

I would start by getting the system bled with fresh fluid, and see if that helps, before replacing the system.

viewtopic.php?t=35389
(How- To: Clutch Slave Cylinder bleeding)

- Nick

[nerox]

I would start by getting the system bled with fresh fluid, and see if that helps, before replacing the system.

viewtopic.php?t=35389
(How- To: Clutch Slave Cylinder bleeding)

- Nick

i have done the easy bleed before by pumping the pedal before. but it didnt help.

today i took the slave cylinder off and pumped it by hand a good 50 times or so and put it all back together.

From what i remember the fluid level seems to have dropped by about 2-3mm from what it was before (hopefully to take up a gap previously occupied by air) and the clutch pedal movement definitely feels different, you can sort of feel the clutch disengaging through the pedal which you couldnt before so it has definitely done something, wether or not it has solved the problem, we will see tomorrow morning when its cold and the car has been left overnight.

will post back tomorrow with verdict

[NickKo]

From what i remember the fluid level seems to have dropped by about 2-3mm from what it was before (hopefully to take up a gap previously occupied by air) and the clutch pedal movement definitely feels different, you can sort of feel the clutch disengaging through the pedal which you couldnt before so it has definitely done something, wether or not it has solved the problem, we will see tomorrow morning when its cold and the car has been left overnight.

Interesting !!
So if the fluid level dropped, was there any obvious leakage ?

Although I suppose that the fluid level could drop a bit, from the lines themselves expanding with age.

- Nick

[nerox]

no obvious leaks from the master or slave or the lines connecting them, but there did seem to be some oil on the rubber gaiter where the arm that the slave pushes goes into the transmission.

i mean that fluid has dropped since before i bled it so something in the bleeding procedure caused it to drop.

[nerox]

FIXED !!!!!!!!!!

[acr]

what was your solution?

[nerox]

bleeding the clutch manually.

works like new (in comparison)

only thing i notice now is that the clutch pedal has to be really high up for it to engage, perhaps worn clutch plates due to the last 3-4 months of fault