Downshifting and engine braking.
- DetergentCandy
- 2GN Member
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Downshifting and engine braking.
So, I need to know. What are the cons?
See, I come from riding motorcycles, where engine braking is used just as much as your actual brakes.
Using the engine to brake, happens just as much as you use the engine to accelerate. They go hand in hand.
But...cars are a different story, aren't they? There's way more moving parts. You've got all sorts of belts that go to all sorts of places, and I have no idea what damage can be caused.
Is the reverse tension on the belts a bad thing, that will kick me in the ass later? Or is it fairly safe to use the engine to slow your car, as long as you do it safely and don't murder your RPMs?
See, I come from riding motorcycles, where engine braking is used just as much as your actual brakes.
Using the engine to brake, happens just as much as you use the engine to accelerate. They go hand in hand.
But...cars are a different story, aren't they? There's way more moving parts. You've got all sorts of belts that go to all sorts of places, and I have no idea what damage can be caused.
Is the reverse tension on the belts a bad thing, that will kick me in the ass later? Or is it fairly safe to use the engine to slow your car, as long as you do it safely and don't murder your RPMs?
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heydockyle
- 2011 Silver Contributor
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Re: Downshifting and engine braking.
These are your key words. As long as you do it safely, you will be fine. I downshift to slow down all the time. Just start slowing down with your brakes first, then downshift.DetergentCandy wrote: do it safely and don't murder your RPMs?

05 OB SRT-4 - AGP Stg 3 Delta 44 Turbo w/ Supporting mods
98 Platinum Coupe - 2.4 Swap
98 Flame Red Sedan - DD Slow
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Downshifting is extremely safe for the belts and accessories. What it is hard on is the clutch and transaxle. I do it as 100% of my normal driving, but it's a habit I want to get out of for street driving. These cars don't hesitate to let you know that they don't like downshifting too, based on the terrible noises they make and the all around feel they give. Rev matching for racing is excellent and also not nearly as hard on the drivetrain since there is minimal shock during the shifting event (when done properly). Bottom line, downshifting regularly basically equates to using the clutch twice as often as you normally would to accelerate. It WILL fail sooner due to the added use.
The way I see it, brakes are much cheaper and easier to change than clutches and trannys. If you can live with popping her into neutral and coasting to a stop using only the brakes, by all means, keep it that way.
The way I see it, brakes are much cheaper and easier to change than clutches and trannys. If you can live with popping her into neutral and coasting to a stop using only the brakes, by all means, keep it that way.
-Derek
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heydockyle
- 2011 Silver Contributor
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I do this all the time. Just makes it easier on me and the synchros. Too bad everything thinks I want to race them and starts revving at me lol.OB wrote: Rev matching for racing is excellent and also not nearly as hard on the drivetrain since there is minimal shock during the shifting event (when done properly).

05 OB SRT-4 - AGP Stg 3 Delta 44 Turbo w/ Supporting mods
98 Platinum Coupe - 2.4 Swap
98 Flame Red Sedan - DD Slow
98 Sport Coupe - Totaled
05 SXT - Sold
- fixitmattman
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If your car is making noise on downshift you have problems somewhere. Any car should be fine with downshifting. In fact is needs to be a part of normal driving a manual transmission vehicle, this means even slowing down. If you're not in gear, you're not in control of your vehicle. You will fail any respectable driving test if you coast. Only time your car should be in neutral is when you're stopped or parked. If you're moving, you're in a gear, be it cruising, accelerating, or slowing.OB wrote: I do it as 100% of my normal driving, but it's a habit I want to get out of for street driving. These cars don't hesitate to let you know that they don't like downshifting too, based on the terrible noises they make and the all around feel they give.
FWIW I downshift and engine brake all the time - I have the original clutch and trans in the car, it has 275000km on it.
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- gtxtreme19
- 2010 Silver Contributor
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Do it. I know driving a big rig isn't the same but as a trucker down shifting is used more than the breaks. As a matter of fact I almost failed my driving test because I coasted in neutral with the breaks on instead of downshifting.
Just my $.02
Just my $.02
-Mike
Midnight_Rider wrote:Gramps Prefers Streetmaps.Skitlz wrote:Gramps, get a GPS.![]()
i do it, and i drive spiritedly quite often, if i do downshift though i dont let the rpm's go above 3.5k. i think so long as you dont abuse it, it will be just fine.
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
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Re: Downshifting and engine braking.
Well, I don't see an issue with downshifting... but then again I am a former semi driver where downshifting is required.DetergentCandy wrote:So, I need to know. What are the cons?
See, I come from riding motorcycles, where engine braking is used just as much as your actual brakes.
Using the engine to brake, happens just as much as you use the engine to accelerate. They go hand in hand.
But...cars are a different story, aren't they? There's way more moving parts. You've got all sorts of belts that go to all sorts of places, and I have no idea what damage can be caused.
Is the reverse tension on the belts a bad thing, that will kick me in the ass later? Or is it fairly safe to use the engine to slow your car, as long as you do it safely and don't murder your RPMs?
I don't do it all the time with the Neon... but occasionally if I need to come to a quick stop.
2011 Honda Fit Sport
- hansken_yo
- 2GN Veteran
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I can't really explain how much I down shift and compression brake, but it is more than I use the actual brake pedal. I also employ a lot of Heel Toe Technique which is also great for downshifting. This technique is actually made easier in Neons due to how close the brake and gas pedal are in proximity to one another, making it so that you only have to pivot your foot to the gas pedal from the brake instead of actually using your heel on one pedal and toe on the other.
The big thing is just match your RPMs to the gear you are shifting down to. This requires that you are familiar enough with your car to know how high to go in the RPMs. If you do it correctly it shouldn't have any adverse effects on your transmission or engine.
The big thing is just match your RPMs to the gear you are shifting down to. This requires that you are familiar enough with your car to know how high to go in the RPMs. If you do it correctly it shouldn't have any adverse effects on your transmission or engine.

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
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Hudson_Neon
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your biggest difference is that the bike is a wet clutch system and the car is a dry clutch. the wet clutch is designed to slip. just like the clutches in an auto trans. but the clutch in a manual trans is a dry system and is designed to work properly either off (disengaged/pedal down) or on (engaged/pedal up). anywhere in between is wearing the crap out of the clutch material.
now with all that being said, i do it all the time. i just replaced my clutch with about 97,000 miles on it. about 67,000 of that was all me. so i say go for it. saves your brakes and doesn't do too much harm to the clutch disc, pressure plate, or flywheel. (modular clutch system in a neon's case)
now with all that being said, i do it all the time. i just replaced my clutch with about 97,000 miles on it. about 67,000 of that was all me. so i say go for it. saves your brakes and doesn't do too much harm to the clutch disc, pressure plate, or flywheel. (modular clutch system in a neon's case)
- fixitmattman
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Unless you've installed a 'slipper' clutch in your bike, it grips on and off just like a dry clutch. There are big differences between wet stacked plate and dry clutch construction, but in the end they function the same as on/off devices. Slipping either for prolonged periods will wear them out the same.Hudson_Neon wrote:your biggest difference is that the bike is a wet clutch system and the car is a dry clutch. the wet clutch is designed to slip. just like the clutches in an auto trans. but the clutch in a manual trans is a dry system and is designed to work properly either off (disengaged/pedal down) or on (engaged/pedal up). anywhere in between is wearing the crap out of the clutch material.
http://www.cardomain.com/profile/fixitmattman
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
How to fix your car:
1. Buy a Haynes manual
2. Read Haynes maual
3. Read and search appropriate threads, trust us, it's been covered before
4. Fix car
5. Consume beer of job well done
- DetergentCandy
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racer12306
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Not as long as Matt, but I've been downshifting for nearly 90,000 miles. Zero trans issues, it's actually be pretty damn quiet, even after starting it up after it's been sitting for weeks.
-Frank
Member of Spork Racing
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Midnight_Rider
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Hudson_Neon
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lol, i bet that clutch started making some lovely noises not long after you traded it in. that's just how things seem to always work. when i did mine at like 97k i probably only had another 5-10k left on itMidnight_Rider wrote:I've always downshifted on a regular basis with every car I've owned and never had any issues. My 1GN had 121K on the original clutch was still going strong when I traded it for my first 2GN.
