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EH Pa isnt that bad but yea 6 1/2 hours would be quite a full day LOL....

PA?? who lives in PA? Teej lives in WA

Yea I mixed up LOL (Sorry Teej) ...both of you guys have OB colored neons and for some reason I got you and him. My bad..

I was talking to this member a while back...

viewtopic.php?t=49124

OK so I am starting to look into Clutch setups....totally forgot to post this up sooner.

Anyway Im pretty sure I can be happy w/ an NA 05 pt clutch but curious what flywheel to run since I dont have one right now. (atx to mtx) ...Im gonna be N/A until spring time when I can throw the turbo in so curious as to which route I should go with. Any hep would be great. Im going for 300hp on ASP's kit to start with. I was told by Eric the PT clutch will be fine. Thanks!!

By flywheel, do you mean cast, billet or aluminum?

The PT one is going to be cast iron. It will bolt right onto the flex plate just like the TC.
Edit:
You may need the centering hub tho. It is a stamped piece of steel that centers the flywheel.

yeah like he said, you dont need a separate flywheel, since the pt clutch is modular, all you have to do is bolt it to your existing flexplate.

Ok sweet..i assume i need different bolts to mount it up then....also i am under the assumption that any na pt cruiser one wil fit...for example 05. curious if i should get an oem one as the one at my parts store is gonna cost me around 300 and thats my cost.

Bump for answer to above and I also have another question..

I picked up a low mileage master cyl but the plastic line is CUT. Curious if the dealer sells just the plastic tube or do I need to just buy a complete new one.

Thanks

The bolts are the same so you dont have to worry about that either. as for the plastic line, i've never seen anyone sell it separately, You can try a dealer but i have my doubts. Typically to get the hoses you have to buy the whole system together (master, slave, and lines) My best suggestion is just go to the jy. I dunno if you could run braided lines or not since all your connection points are plastic.

Missed that last post. You will need flywheel to flexplate bolts, and the centering hub. Any year N/A PT clutch should work.

And no they do not sell the plastic lines separately.

You could try to find a compression type union to repair it tho. I would. Not too sure what the tubing diameter is. Just take a razor and cut the damaged part out, and take it to a good hardware, and they should be able to find you a coupler/union. As long as it will crimp the ferrule down tight and seal, it should work.

6501099 DD5 BOLT Hex Head M10x1.50 x 13.20 Drive Plate To Clutch 4 required.

IDK if they are the same as the flex to TC bolts. I am not showing the center alignment hub separate in the '01 manual. I can check the newer ones later.

Na after a half hour of reading up on it Im gonna have to buy new...Ill just sell the cyl on here. If you have the setup in the car already you can replace them piece by piece. LOL


Still have a few major parts to get so Its not gonna happen this weekend like i planned but hopefully soon.

I assume its a goo idea to put in new flywheel bolts just curious how many i need. flywheel/flex plate to crank and pt modular clutch to flex plate.

Lastly If I remeber there is a kit that they made for people doing the swap that came with the dust cover and a new flexplate and crap should I invest in that as well???

There is a kit to convert the '95 style to modular. I posted the number somewhere a while back, but I will need to search later. Back to work!

Thanks guys appreciate it...


now Im confused as for quantities and pn for the bolts...

viewtopic.php?t=17648

LOL if some one has an exact number. im assuming its 4 to the crank and poss 4 for the clutch??? Im not too familiar w/ modular clutches so I have no idea how many of each I will need LOL

i think you're over complicating things or i'm missing something OD, he is using the pt modular clutch. He doesnt need to get any bolts as everything should swap right over, they're the same on the TC as they are on the clutch. And whats with this 95 coversion kit, why would he need that?

I just assumed for a couple of bux get new bolts but if it becomes a pain I will use my stock ones as they only have 28k miles.


Tha conversion kit came w/ a dust shield and some other parts not sure if I needed it. I just cant find the link to see what comes in it.


I cant for the life of me find a decent 5 speed 03+ neon anywhere near me. Im having to part everything together which sux LOL...

i've always just reused those bolts without issue. gotcha now on the dust cover as you'll need that. Just be sure to use a dab of loctite on the clutch bolts when you assemble everything.

Oh believe me I will LOL

Thanks again

Ok so looking at the master I have the plastic hose goes down into some kind of circle fitting...Ive tried to pry it apart but no luck unless Im doing it wrong. If thats the case the master I have should work fine all I need to get is the slave!!!

is pn# 4668331AB just the slave or is it the entire assy. (master cyl. , Line, slave cyl.) cause its $105!!!!

yes that fitting does come apart, however i was not able to ever get it apart myself, i think you need a special tool. You dont have this part yet but on the slave cyl side of the line you will see a metal biscuit looking thing. Its a damper, nothing real special but just be aware thats what it is.

I wasn't sure if the bolts were the same or not. Just put a dab of blue 242 loc tite on them to be safe. The oem ones come pre thread lock applied.
Prolly the only reason why they say not to re use. They figure the thread locker will not hold again, and they don't want to be liable if a Chrysler tech does the install.
Does the TC have the centering hub as part of it, or does it use that top hat type hub the mod clutch uses?

4668672AA COVER, Transmission Dust $12.35


And before I forget, there is really no reason, (normally) to remove the flex plate, unless the rear main seal is being replaced. Or if you need to swap it to another engine.

Possibly the stamped center hub comes with a new modular clutch, because I am not finding it anywhere.

The Spec clutch I bought didn't come with a new one, but then it was not bought from Spec.

I would imagine without it, you would get some vibration, as the 4 bolts would be all that are holding it to center. I almost didn't see it when I did my clutch, As I removed the old one and set it down. Luckily I happened to turn it over before I bolted the new one on.


Edit: In the backside pic, the center part is what I am reffering to.

Sachs Clutch



Hopefully w/e clutch you get has that. It is just something no one ever mentions.

from what i can see...the pt clutch has a large nipple that will center it on the flex plate i believe....and then there are 4 bolts other than that thats what i could come up with...as far as the master and slave unit i see that im gonna have to spen near 200 bux for both so this should be fun lol

Caraudioholic24 wrote:..as far as the master and slave unit i see that im gonna have to spend near 200 bux for both so this should be fun lol

That's why I suggested repairing the plastic tubing.

If you can get a compression fitting to splice it together, you would have about $5 or less in the fix. It may not be as pretty tho. But then you could cover the complete tube in convoluted wire loom.

yes the pt clutch has that nipple on the back of it, theres really nothing to it as far as install. You just need to make sure you line up the odd hole with the marked hole on the clutch (you'll see what i mean when you get it)

Since mine didn't come with it, I wasn't sure if it was supplied. May not always be there, so it is a good idea to check before putting the clutch on. It would be a pain getting the bolts in place without it tho. But I wouldn't have known the difference having not done a newer style clutch before. If I had been in a rush, it would have sucked to take it all apart to put that in. It is just slid in place with just enough interference to hold it in. Might not be a bad idea to keep a spare, because you prolly need to buy a complete clutch to get a replacement. Not sure how you could damage it, but then stranger things have happened.

ok i just talked to eric from asp. im gonna ditch the whole plastic setup all together and get the asp hydrolic kit. all steel and braided line for a little more than the stock plastic.

as for the clutch i assume sachs is a good brand. the parts store i was going through sells rhino clutches?? still may just get the pt clutcj from the dealer as well we shall see.

thanks again guys.

Sachs is a good quality brand. It is prolly what I would have gone with, had I not got the Spec for $200. I just didn't want to risk the possible rattle issue with the mopar PT clutch on 2.0's

I totally forgot about the ASP hydraulic set up. May as well, if you were going to buy new. Money better spent.

i thought the rattle issues were only on the mopar performance ones?? now im confused lol

sachs makes the pt clutches as well, its stamped right on it. i've never heard of a rattling issue with the pt clutch before?

OK so still debating on what clutch to get....leaning towards the PT as long as there is no issues with it...


I was able to FINALLY pick up trans today!!! Only issue I had was the mileage was incorrect LOL It was better than stated!!! Originally I was told about 10k when I got there the car had 1906!!!!! It still had a Maine Temp plate on the back and the roof was cut using the jaws of life!!! Car was hidden in the back lot I guess and when I called for the trans they dug it out! I also grabbed the ecu for it!!! The trans looks to be in perfect condition. The car was hit on the pass side but not sure if it rolled or not???


Now only question I have right now is the ecu has 4 spots for plugs but only 3 have pins?? Not sure why but I havent had a chance to go and look at mine yet!. Now all I need to find is the 03+ engine harness and Im golden.