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Any tips on install?
Removal seems simple enough with a screw driver. But install says to use these special tools. Not sure if they are really needed or not. I know LSP had hers done and she had issues with hers because they were damaging it when they were trying to press it in.

(1) Using driver handle C-4171 and installer 8476,
install axle seals into position.

8476:

$30

C-4171:

$20

I just tapped mine in with a soft faced hammer. The hard part is getting it started without popping the opposite side out. Once it sticks all the way around, just keep tapping it in until it is seated completely. Once it is seated, it is in a perfect circle.

I usually just push down on the opposite side I an tapping on, and it will begin to go.

I did both when I installed the diff pin tabs over a year ago, and haven't had an issue. Just be sure to lube the seals, and axle stubs before installing the axles.

I don't think I have ever used a seal install tool in my life. Just some patient/careful hammer work will get it done. The only seal I've had fail, is the one I didn't replace. So a new seal is always purchased when I remove something. They are cheap insurance.

Yeah I should of replaced it when I did my halfshaft last Fall. Lube the seal with what? Tranny Fluid? Meh, I just own a rubber mallet and a regular hammer. Maybe put a cloth or something over the seal to avoid damaging it? Cost me like $34 shipped for one seal.

But its just seaping, not really leaking, so no rush really.

Holy Crap! Seals are less than $20 from the dealer.
MTX
4797334 SEAL AXLE DRIVE SHAF $9.60

ATX
4412522AB $7.70


t850
5069052AA $35.00 Ouch. I would be really careful. Slight advantage, t350

A rubber mallet might work, but might bounce. The regular hammer will do, just be careful not to hit it too hard. I used a deadblow with the plastic ends, but you can fubar it just as easy with that as a steel hammer. Just lube it with motor oil/ATF/light grease, as long as it isn't dry. The lube doesn't matter, as there will not be enough to cause a compatibility issue. Vaseline will work too.

Edit: I would have to look later for the cost for a t850.

Meh I am afraid of damaging it. Once I get the seal I am sure I will think of something that will resemble that special tool. But I will be sure to lube it up.

Block o wood an a hammer = done.

If you are able to find some steel tubing that fits in the recess, that would be the best bet, but really, either some wood or just tapping it carefully will work. If the seals for RWD front hubs weren't so expensive, I'd say get an old hub, and practice on that. Basically where I learned to get them in without destroying them. (Repacking wheel bearings) You really have to almost purposely try to damage it tho. Once it's started, the seal bore will support it/retain it's shape. All you need to do is seat it all the way around.

I got mine from Napa for $6. I took it out with a simple flathead. And took a piece of pipe and a rubber mallet to install. Simple and quick to do.

You have SRT tranny? ^
Awesome suggestions, thanks guys.

Ya I have full swap

You have the NAPA pn? I can't find anything as far as avle/CV Driveshaft/transaxle/trasmission seal in their crappy parts look up.

And AZ, under the SRT lists the A578 transmission, which I believe is the t350.

Edit: Advance take s the prize:
National Oil Seal
Part No. 3459
Warranty: 1 YEAR REPLACEMENT IF DEFECTIVE

Chrysler 40TE 4 Spd. Automatic Transaxle

I beleive its NOS 15750

I just call from my work and they ordered it. My cost was about $6

Interesting. That seal fits a multitude of applications. The ATX seal may be one and the same. I wouldn't put it past Chrysler to sell the same seal for the SRT at a true "We're gonna bone you for having a performance car" price.

Unfortunately the Mopar PN does not cross reference on the Napa site.

Ya if you just call them they found it for me a secs. Ive used them for 1000s of miles now with no problems.

Man, I got owned on price. I see rockauto.com has them for $7 or so. But I was thinking it was for the automatic, I guess they are universal or something.

Got it in the mail today. Took pictures.
Backside:

Frontside:

Notice the red grease around there. So backside needs to be lubed up correct?

The only lube you need is what's already been pre lubed. It should be good to go. That is definitely different than the t350 seal. Is there a number printed/stamped anywhere on it?

yes. 66982 on the rubber portion, really small Part number for the part is 05069052AA. But its not stamped ont he part anywhere.

fixitmattman wrote:Block o wood an a hammer = done.

THIS it worked for me the 5 times ive done axel seals on several different cars including neons the seals arnt like super fragile just line it up wood over top and hammer her in

Doing it tomorrow. Thanks for the advice you guys.

Today was a epic fail. Couldn't drop the ball joint from the knuckle so we could get the halfshaft out. Plus I didn't want to take the knuckle off from the strut since I am SICK of getting alignments all the time. So put everything back together. Going to take it to a local garage and have them do it. Sucks that this car is my daily, I literally only have Saturday and Sunday to work on it and I will not cut corners with anything. Plus I am busy with chores aorund my place on Sunday. so I really only have 1 day to work on it and get flustered pretty easily when I am having a hard time with something.

If you didn't at least drop both sides of the sway bar and let it swing down, getting the BJ to separate from the knuckle can be near impossible. Even at that, they can require some hammer love to get it to slide out.

But yeah, I can understand the time frame/only car issue.

I had the axle seal replaced at 12k under warranty. Took them 3 or 4 days to do the damn job. It was a good thing I could drive my Dad's truck the whole time.

Get a piece of a 2x4. Lay it against the bearing. Hit it with a heavy hammer. It will go in easy.

Yup, the thing that sucks about the sway bar is the brackets..You know the bolts that break ALL the time. Already broke 3 and had to drill them out. Luckily I was at school at the time and had a lift. That can't happen. Yeah we jacked up the knuckle with a jack from the hub and was so close to getting the ball joint out. A ton of hammer action happened too to the LCA, but no go. Topped off the tranny fluid atleast.

For future reference, you shouldn't need to mess with the inner clamps, just the outer links. Remove the bolts, and give it a good pull down, so it rotates in the bushings. Might stick good, but with enough effort it will move. If nothing else have someone tie it off as you hold it down, if it still wants to spring back on the bushings. If you have urethane, it should move relatively easy.

Yeah I saw that ball-joint how-to by OB a couple hours ago. Might have to try it again.

I learned to take the sway loose working on my Omni. Espesially when there was a P body sway bar on it. A Shadow/Sundance front sway is a stiff bastid. You don't move the LCA down at all with that attached.

I think if you could bolt one to a neon, you could pull the springs out, because they wouldn't be needed anymore.

occasional demons wrote:
I think if you could bolt one to a neon, you could pull the springs out, because they wouldn't be needed anymore.

Hmmm. Would it fit a Neon ??


- Nick

I don't think it will. If you could adapt the whole crossmember, and LCA's it would, but you would be adding a fair amount of unsprung weight with those LCA's. They are forged steel (I think) I doubt those would be cast iron.

Having lifted both the Sundance and neon assembled crossmembers with LCA's, the Sundance is a killer. I'm sure they would handle anything you could toss at them, that the neon chassis would withstand.

I am still contemplating adapting the steering gear into the neon tho. 2.5 turns lock to lock.