Has anyone ever ran a 5 spd PT Cruiser shifter

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 5:09 pm

I am curious if anyone here has done it. The shaft below the fulcrum is about an inch longer. It seems to me like a better option than an eBay short throw for someone who does not feel like grabbing a maddog just yet.

Thoughts, experience, ideas?

Criticism, however can be left at the door. [/list]

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 5:25 pm

No one?

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 5:51 pm

Something like this?

A comparison of stock versus PT

And the chopped finished product in factory rubber. Bwhahahaha!

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:07 pm

Interesting. Be sure to adjust the crossover cable afterwards too.

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 9:10 pm

Explain

fusion210 · Post by **fusion210** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 10:17 pm

I am fairly certain you have to use the spacer that's between the base and the shifter to use the pt cruiser shifter.

http://www.robertsmedia.net/underconsole.jpg

It will probably require longer bolts/studs.

I've seen it posted as a budget short throw shifter over on neons.org, there is probably more info available there.

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 11:56 pm

No spacer needed. Those pictures are from my car. It is installed and chopped. Made a big difference. It will not fit a 1gn, as I have tried.

I will post a picture of a stock one installed so you can see.

I was posting to see if anyone here had done it yet.

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 1:28 am

Factory shifter

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 10:22 am

GroceryGetter wrote:Explain

viewtopic.php?t=55884

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 10:51 am

Thank you. Doing this ASAP.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 12:21 pm

My one concern, is the angle the cable is operating at. It should be fine, if you bend the area around the hole for the shift cable mount. But with the longer rod pushing it down, it would prolly wear and bind eventually.

Shouldn't have cut the top part shorter. You could have put a RatFink head on there for a shift knob.

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 2:23 pm

Adjusted crossover.

Still as cheap and hobo as ever, I stuffed a few plastic dart tips in the bushing until I drop a $20 on boogers soon.

You forget how horrible the factory bushings are until you replace or 'modify' them. Even my ghetto 'fix' makes it feel like a direct linkage system compared to the mushy engagement of stock.

Time to pick my Boogers and put them on my car.

If I was running my pt I would be all about the rat rod look, but a short stick works just fine in my Neon.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Oct 09, 2011 3:33 pm

I wasn't really serious about leaving it long. You would prolly have bruises on your knuckles from the HVAC bezel.

But about the angle on the cable: You could also take a round file, and elongate the hole to lower it so it is level with the pivot arm. Prolly easier/simpler than trying to bend it. It would still clip in place, as long as you keep it the same width. It's not like it is a high stress item. You will damage something else, long before it pulls through.

fusion210 · Post by **fusion210** » Mon Oct 10, 2011 8:36 pm

GroceryGetter wrote:No spacer needed. Those pictures are from my car. It is installed and chopped. Made a big difference. It will not fit a 1gn, as I have tried.

I will post a picture of a stock one installed so you can see.

I was posting to see if anyone here had done it yet.

It does when you use the spacer and a first gen shifter base. They've used the pt cruiser shifter and mopar srt4 short shifters that way. They swap the crossover levers to get it to work.

Glad it works without the spacer for you, it looks really close.

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 7:54 pm

occasional demons wrote:I wasn't really serious about leaving it long. You would prolly have bruises on your knuckles from the HVAC bezel.

But about the angle on the cable: You could also take a round file, and elongate the hole to lower it so it is level with the pivot arm. Prolly easier/simpler than trying to bend it. It would still clip in place, as long as you keep it the same width. It's not like it is a high stress item. You will damage something else, long before it pulls through.

You are thinking in the right direction, because after a few days I have really noticed the binding of the shifter. It was not so noticeable at first because I was driving it easy. Today I decided to give it a good launch to test out the new prothane motor mount inserts. Second gear was a horrendous partial fail, as it ground into place because the shifter did not slide into place like it should.

Off came the console and on came a light bulb...why tear up the base or bend anything when I can just use a few washers under the base. Basically the same idea that Hurst uses to lift the base up for their shifter.

3 washers under the passenger side and one for the other 3 corners.

The alignment is much better. Don't forget the simple shim.

Post by **jonnymopar** » Wed Oct 12, 2011 9:35 am

I wonder if the longer crossover arm from a PT shifter would fit as well. Then you'd have a true short throw.

Nice work. I always prefer the stock look. The short throw that I made for my car has the stock boot with a leather ACR knob on it. Noooooobodyyyyyy knowwwwwsssss...

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Wed Oct 12, 2011 3:05 pm

I am going to pick up the rest of the PT set up when I get a chance, including the spacer. I showed it could be done without, but for longevity I will grab the other pieces.

The factory knob has a good feel to it, so why swap it for something that will burn my hand? Ha ha .....of course one if those leather acr/rt knobs would be nice. I have thought about swapping the boot out for something a little less rubber.

Post by **jonnymopar** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 2:38 pm

GroceryGetter wrote:The factory knob has a good feel to it, so why swap it for something that will burn my hand?

I totally agree. Warms up quick in winter, cools down fast in summer.

I don't mind the stock boot so much. I've seen some split at the fake "seam" in them, but mine's fine after 140k miles and New England's erratic climates.

BlackRoseRacing is running the whole Hurst short throw setup for a PT in his R/T. It's BAD ASS. I personally like the extra height, although I don't think he can put a CD in with the car in 3rd, haha.

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:34 pm

I can get a hurst pt bottom end for $40...

Maddog · Post by **Maddog** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 11:47 am

If you can get the Hurst bottom pcs, do so, as it will allow you to run the Hurst rod. You will lose some shortness of your cut-rod setup, though, but gain the rod stops.

Personally, I would re-asemble the PT shifter with your cut rod, using the spacer, x-over arm, and Hurst aluminum housing (w/the rod stops). That will be about a 35% overall throw redux.

FYI, the n/a PT shifter is the same as a Mopar STS, EXCEPT that the rod is 3.375" longer on the PT, and is angled slightly away from the driver.

GroceryGetter · Post by **GroceryGetter** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:36 pm

Thanks for the info. You know more than anyone would......I will be contacting you soon about building a shifter for my first gen.