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Automatic transmission problem HELP!!!
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 3:41 pm
Unfortunately, today I had a bad day. As I was driving to work I started to smell transmission fluid; I paid it no attention. As I was pulling away from a red light, I looked back and saw a huge puddle of oil. I stopped at a gas station, looked under, and saw transmission fluid pouring out by the main seal. Called the tow truck and took it to my job to check it out.
History: Car is a 02 with a 4spd atx. I had the transmission rebuilt in Oct 2010, warranty is expired of coarse.
I called the shop I had it replaced and they said it sounds like the transmission pump or the pump seal took a crap. The car drives normal; it’s not slipping or anything. It’s just pouring the fluid between the engine and transmission.
Could that be the problem? The pump is $210 and special order, meaning I cannot return it if it’s something else :/
I’m going to try to do it myself with a couple of my friends this weekend, I don’t want to spend my savings on this by taking it to a shop because I am trying to propose and I need the ring
Any information will help me please…... and no check engine light
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:57 pm
Hopefully it is just the seal. Once the ATX is out, the seal is an easy task. I would hope they put a new pump in there, for what you pay to have one rebuilt. If the bushing the torque converter rides in is worn, I can see it not properly supporting the torque converter and that would wear out the seal. Not sure if that is part of the pump tho.
List price for a Mopar pump is $210 also, plus $26.10 for the gasket package.
Their price is $152.46, and $18.94 plus shipping. Depending on shipping, and how fast you need it, could be a factor, but I don't see shipping being $60+ for those two items. But you never know.
5127197AA PUMP, Transmission Oil
4883260 SEAL AND GASKET PACKAGE,
Transmission Oil Pump
Not sure if the gasket package is included with a pump, it can't hurt to ask them. They have an 800 number.
Edit: I'm not seeing a regular lip seal like the older ATX front/TC seals in the parts. Not sure on that part.
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:16 pm
Could that be a reason why it's leaking, the pump/seal? My friend kind of freaked me out when he told me some transmissions when they go bad, they build enough pressure to burst the seal.....
I am not sure if its the pump/seal or not, i'm assuming from the amount of transmission oil that is leaking out that it is that or the seal from the pump. Im going to take some pictures tomorrow.
I bought new RTV for the transmission pan while im at it and a new rear main seal.
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:23 pm
The rear main, you'll want a soft faced hammer, or bock of wood to work around the seal to install it. Be sure to put some lube on the crank/rubber.
Never heard of pressure blowing the seals. The regulator would have to fail for that to happen.
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:36 pm
so is there a way to change that seal without taking the transmission off?
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:40 pm
Nope. That part, you are pretty much stuck with.
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:42 pm
:/ first time im doing it lol anything else i should replace while im in there?
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:52 pm
Well if you are pulling the axles to get the ATX out, you will need two axle seals also. You don't want those to start leaking, after you get it back together.
If you are pulling the pan, may as well get a filter too. Not sure if that was the plan, or if it just was leaking. As far as between the engine/trans, I think the atf leak, and the rear main are about all you can do in there.
Edit: you will want to break the axle nuts loose before lifting the car.
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 3:40 am
I didn't buy new axle seals, but then, I was also very careful both times I had to remove/install the axles. If you put new seals in, and still nick the seals with the axles, you've got a problem. Just take your time removing and installing them.
A bad pump would likely yield you loss of prime codes and horrible shifting. My pump went out, but I had no loss of oil; just prime/pressure. I bought a used, but cleaned up pump off of eBay (new seal too IIRC) for less than $100. It's been working fine for years now.
New transmission filter wouldn't be a bad idea at all.
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:12 am
As cheap as seals are, it isn't worth the risk of reusing them. IMHO. Like I say, cheap insurance.
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 2:20 pm
Yeah. Just don't nick the new ones!
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:04 pm
Just slide it in slow and easy, and all parties will be happy.
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:20 pm
Thank you guys! well so far I have the main seal, RTV and the transmission filter all from Dodge. I also picked up an oil pan gasket and power steering pressure hose for some side projects I need to do.
As far as the axle seals, any part numbers? AdvanceAutoParts were not too positive about which ones I wanted.
Also, any tips as far as pulling the transmission off? Is there something I should look out for or handle with car? Is it a mission? How long will it more or less take?
Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:01 pm
First time, taking your time, about 5 hours give or take.
4412522AB axle seals AZ's web site is much more helpful. Timken #3459S
You're going to need a floor jack to support it, and something to support the engine.
Break the axle nuts loose at the hubs, raise the car, support properly. Remove the nuts.
Remove the inspection cover at the bell housing.
Remove the flexplate to TC bolts. Remove the sway bar end links. swing down the bar.
Remove the tie rod ends from the knuckle.
Remove pinch bolts on the ball joint, and separate the LCA from the knuckle.
Swing the knuckle/strut assy out enough to pull the axle stub from the knuckle. You may need to loosen the nuts on top.
Remove all harnesses, and cables.
You will need a decent hammer to knock the axles out of the ATX. A good rap will usually dislodge the retaining rings.
Once the axles are out, roll the jack under the ATX, and hold it while removing the bell housing bolts, and the trans mount. I would get a sheet of plywood or something sturdy under there first to slide the trans off onto, so you can slide the trans out from under on the plywood.
I'm sure I have left something out, but that would be the basics.
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:33 pm
I need to replace both tie rod ends, any suggestions on good brands?
Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:39 am
I got relabled Moog. The Moog ones are very beefy compared to factory ones.