Who else has a bad syncro???
Who else has a bad syncro???
Who else has a bad syncro my 2nd is shot I thought id never be able to shift normal again unless I got a new tranny and then a friend showed me how to shift better I can slam it in 2nd gear when I need to with ease no grind no nothing just feels like a perfect shift
10.85 1/8 @67.37 mph
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I'd swap that phone too.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
I thought I had a bad sync in 2nd and 3rd......
Turns out that I cracked the shift selector inside the transmission and had bent the roll pin for the shift linkage.....
While I was in there I also replaced the shift linkage seals and shimmed the detent ball.
Also found a worn TOB, fork and pressure plate on an otherwise good clutch.
I replaced TOB and fork but eventually the clutch will have to go because of the pressure plate.
Of course the only way to find out is to remove and inspect, not keep driving it till it dies completely and costs more money to fix in long run.
Turns out that I cracked the shift selector inside the transmission and had bent the roll pin for the shift linkage.....
While I was in there I also replaced the shift linkage seals and shimmed the detent ball.
Also found a worn TOB, fork and pressure plate on an otherwise good clutch.
I replaced TOB and fork but eventually the clutch will have to go because of the pressure plate.
Of course the only way to find out is to remove and inspect, not keep driving it till it dies completely and costs more money to fix in long run.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
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No, he will recondition it, and then sell it.
Edit did that "all" mean "and" or "I'll" ?
Edit did that "all" mean "and" or "I'll" ?
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
Save those parts for people that won't "waste" them.chipdogg wrote:I have 4 new 1-2 synchro assemblies, complete with fibrides and everything. $150 each. Fibrides not available seperately, chrysler doesn't even offer parts for it.
Ever come across a cracked shift selector chip?
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
Eh, I'll save them for people who aren't too cheap.chew* wrote:Save those parts for people that won't "waste" them.
Ever come across a cracked shift selector chip?
As for a cracked shift selector, no. BTW, what are you calling the "shift selector"? One of the forks? Or the steel box thing that actually moves the forks and sucks to line up when putting the trans together?
This thing:
I gotta box full of these, I don't think they wear out.
Yup, I'll make it look like this:occasional demons wrote:No, he will recondition it, and then sell it.
And it'll shift even better than it looks.
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I blew the 3rd gear synchro in my car slamming into gear at about 8500rpm. Shoulda waited for the engine to slow down a little.
You really don't need the synchros, you can drive fine without them provided you shift into gear at the appropriate rpm...won't even make a noise. You just have to be quick about it.
You really don't need the synchros, you can drive fine without them provided you shift into gear at the appropriate rpm...won't even make a noise. You just have to be quick about it.
Your first statement makes no sense, it doesn't matter how fast the engine is spinning, when you press the clutch in, it completely disconnects the engine from the transmission (if working right). Then you can shift. The synchronizer slows down/speeds up the input shaft to match the speed it needs to be (matching the speed of the tires since the output shaft is ALWAYS connected to the tires).ZeroChad wrote:I blew the 3rd gear synchro in my car slamming into gear at about 8500rpm. Shoulda waited for the engine to slow down a little.
You really don't need the synchros, you can drive fine without them provided you shift into gear at the appropriate rpm...won't even make a noise. You just have to be quick about it.
As for not needing the synchros, it's true, you just have to shift it right. Downshifting won't work well, but upshifting will. When you shift to the next gear up, the input shaft has to slow down, which it naturally does due to drag of the gears, oil, etc. But when you downshift, the input shaft has to speed up and there's no way to do that without a synchronizer.
That would be what I cracked. I was using the term shift selector loosely as its quite a bit different from the T-850.chipdogg wrote:Eh, I'll save them for people who aren't too cheap.chew* wrote:Save those parts for people that won't "waste" them.
Ever come across a cracked shift selector chip?
As for a cracked shift selector, no. BTW, what are you calling the "shift selector"? One of the forks? Or the steel box thing that actually moves the forks and sucks to line up when putting the trans together?
This thing:
I had a spare from the trans that tossed the diff pin and nuked gears so I used that one.....
Only thing I can think is maybe it wasn't in perfect when I assembled it because it sucks to line up as you said.
It was causing all kinds of issues. The weirdest being after a run from a dig you could barely get the car in any gear at all unless you shut car off and restarted it, then worked shifter through all gears a few times with clutch in.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
Now that I think about it this trans was in a car that got hit hard at 32K.chipdogg wrote:Weird, they are pretty thick and don't really have alot of force put through them. It basically sits still, the whole housing pivots one way or the other (when crossover level is moved) and then the middle part goes up and down to move shift forks.
I installed and pulled it back out same day due to a bad output shaft bearing on pass side ( likely caused by accident on pass side ). It's very possible that maybe it hairline cracked in that accident. Maybe driver braced himself with shifter.
Anyway I might have missed it when I replaced all the bearings in trans.
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.