Strange transmission leak

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moe8555
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Strange transmission leak

Post by moe8555 » Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:39 am

I recently noticed on my 2001 with automatic that when I park the car and turn it off, something like 5-10 drops leak out from one spot.

It looks like it might be the transmission fluid dipstick tube, not sure if top or bottom. The bottom of the dipstick tube looks extremely grimy with what seems like caked up old fluid.

The leak does not continue, just about 5-10 drops after shutting off and that's it. No puddles in the morning or anything like that.

The car shifts smooth like a baby's bottom and I have no complaints about the transmission otherwise. The fluid is fresh and was changed only a few months ago.

I haven't checked of it drips with the engine running in park.

EDIT: Checked the fluid level now according to the proper procedure and it seemed to be at the right level, but had bubbles on the dipstick with engine running. What does that mean?

Ideas? Tips?

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:57 am

Also reply to PM:



moe8555 wrote:I posted in the Drivetrain forum about a leak I discovered. I haven't jacked the car up yet, buy it looks like the leak is coming from the rear of the pan (the higher part towards the firewall). I just wanted to make sure that I don't have a solenoid before I start taking stuff apart...

If it isn't the pan gasket, any other ideas about what it could be in that area?

No solenoid pack on the 3 speeds.

Is it the cover that is on the back for the differential? Or just the back of the pan on the bottom?

Either way, there isn't anything else that could be leaking, unless there is case damage.

You mentioned something about the dipstick tube also. There ia an o-ring at the bottom of those. Or someone might have spilled fluid adding it, and it made the bottom of the tube grimy. It shouldn't really leak out of the tube seal, unless the o-ring is totally missing.
Bill
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moe8555
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Post by moe8555 » Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:37 am

Well I don't think it's the tube either. It's definitely starting to look like the pan gasket, but I still want to jack up the car to take a better look.

I'm debating whether or not to try this myself. I don't have a 1/4" drive torque wrench, only 3/8" from 10-100 ft. lbs. I don't want to screw up the torques on the bolts. The filter is only a few months old so I don't want to touch it.

How long would the actual work (not counting waiting for fluid to drain) take to do for a first timer? I mean to remove and reseal the pan. What's the best tool for cleaning the parts of the pan and transmission where the RTV goes?

Damn it, here in Israel a quart of ATF+4 costs freakin $25 so I'd hate to screw up and pay hundreds of bucks on ATF and drain/refill multiple times...

On the other hand, I have a receipt from the previous owner showing that the dealer did a pan drop and reseal a few months back with the flush, so I guess I'd be no better having them do it either. I saw some Australian guy here also seemed to have bad sealing done a few times at the dealer, so I'm not alone :roll:

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:23 am

Well you could clean the pan and area around it as well as possible, and drain it into a clean container, since it isn't that old, and re use it, maybe screen it through a piece of cloth. As long as it isn't full of dust, sand, etc, and you put it in a sealed container while doing the work, it shouldn't hurt too much. I generally hate to put fluids back in tho. But at $25/quart....

I use brake clean to clean the pan and the pan rail. You may need to let it drip a while to get it to the point where the oil is not going to be dripping across the fresh RTV.

These things seem to drip forever. Might be why it leaks, they didn't allow enough time for it to fully drain. Once it gets down to a drop a minute or so, clean the case mounting rail, have the RTV applied to the pan, and slap it on, and tighten the screws.

You can get away with just snugging them to seat the pan, then let it cure for about a half hour. Then just snug them good with a 1/4 ratchet. I have never torqued them, as you are not crushing a gasket/bending the pan. Just get them snug, so they won't back out.

Then add the fluid.
Bill
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moe8555
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Post by moe8555 » Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:52 am

Thanks for the great advice!
Sounds like something I should be able to handle.

Now the hardest part is figuring out how to break the news to my wife without her killing me :lol:

moe8555
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Post by moe8555 » Thu Jul 18, 2013 1:34 am

Well it turns out that there isn't any Mopar RTV-ATF in the country and the the local Chrysler importer chose not to bring any over or use it in their garages. A lot of people here seem to be recommending Victor Reinz brand. Would that be fine?
2001 Chrysler Neon LX (like 2002 US models with the 4 speed ATX)

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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jul 18, 2013 12:33 pm

Most made for automotive use will work, just let it cure for a bit before adding fluid. I don't think I have ever used ATF specific RTV...
Bill
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moe8555
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Post by moe8555 » Sun Jul 21, 2013 2:11 am

Well unfortunately I've been super busy and unable to get around to taking a good look at the car.

Although my mind has also been busy and I've been thinking about the leak.

If it drips a few drops and then stops completely after turning the car off, then the problem is actually THE OPPOSITE of what I had thought. It isn't leaking only when off, but actually only when ON.

Would that make sense, or is it actually possible for it to be leaking only a few drops from the pan gasket after turn off?

And if I'm right and it's only leaking when on, then where else could it be leaking from? Hoses? Something a lot more expensive and difficult?

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Jul 21, 2013 12:04 pm

There are two hoses that run to the radiator. One or both may be seeping, and running along the pan lip and dripping off. that may explain why it only does it while running.

You may be able to get the pre formed hoses from a parts store. I believe the 1gn neon hoses are available, so possibly the 2gn ones are too. Otherwise you can try to use bulk hose, and hope it doesn't kink.

These are the Mopar numbers to order from the dealer. I believe they come with the clamps included for that price.

5278031AC HOSE, Transmission Oil Pressure $15.00

5278032AC HOSE, Transmission Oil Return $9.50

Tho getting them there might be impossible. Bulk hose might be your only option...
Bill
dblsg wrote:ya'll a bunch of post whores
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moe8555
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Post by moe8555 » Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:58 am

I checked with the dealer and they don't have any in stock and no plans to order.

I checked on Rockauto and there are 2 hoses listed for transmission oil cooler line.

Would these be the right hoses? Or are they only a fit for one of them?

Seems kind of long at 4.5 feet... 11/32" diameter.
2001 Chrysler Neon LX (like 2002 US models with the 4 speed ATX)

NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Sun Jul 28, 2013 5:18 pm

moe8555 wrote:I checked with the dealer and they don't have any in stock and no plans to order.

I checked on Rockauto and there are 2 hoses listed for transmission oil cooler line.

Would these be the right hoses? Or are they only a fit for one of them?

Seems kind of long at 4.5 feet... 11/32" diameter.
Interesting. :-k That does seem a bit too long - I bet that these are supposed to be 'cut to length' by the installer.

You could always just buy some 'generic' Transmission cooler line hose - Most auto parts stores carry it.
You'll just need to get the right size.


- Nick
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