2GN.ORG

hey guys i just wanted to give a huge bulliten question and get a lot of responses back before i purchase this...

Project: Putting a stock srt4 turbo system into my 05 sxt and running it at 5psi boost for the time being.


Parts going to buy: (if there are any more...let me know)

tock srt turbo/manifold
the adapter plate you will need to mount the turbo manifold
intake
iintercooler and all piping
downpipe
coolant overflow relocation
map clamp
return fuel system
rising rate FPR
stg 1 SRT4 injectors
turboxs blowoff
3 gauge pillar with boost/fuel pressure/wideband
also an oil presure but we idnt have a place to mount it...


a guy on srt forums is selling all that and saying that he wants to cus he installed it all but his CEL light keeps coming on and car goes into limp mode and he has NO cLUE

what do you guys think.

You don't need the return line or regulator. To make an NGC neon boost, you need a megasquirt, and for the boost levels you're going for, all that is a waste.

is it a waste just because he wont get to much power for the money...because you have to start somewhere.......right



only reason i ask is because i want to turbo my 01 atx..... and im about to start buying the parts for the stock srt turbo

You can't use a RRFPR (correctly) on an NGC neon. So basically, the only use of a return line system is to have an adjustable fuel pressure in the rail. Although with an 01, it's not a bad option. Your neon will actually play dumb when you have the pedal to the floor.

yeah. i PM'ed you. talk back!

didnt graphite use a areomotive 1:1 fpr/safc/aem uego ? look up his build on the other org...

I used a RRFPR on mine for a while. The only way to keep a rich enough mixture was to remove the upstream o2 sensor, and then it ran like crap the rest of the time. With an NGC, it's MegaSquirt, Portfueler, or have a shitty tune at all times.

Not sure if this works on NGC, but 00-02 neons may "play dumb" as you say in open loop, in closed loop they still try for stoich within reason. Meaning that you can have your idle anywhere from 14.7 all the way to 10 depending on fuel pressure. It does that within a certian range, where it will trim fuel to make it rich or lean within that range. What im getting at why cant you excede these fuel trims in open loop on NGC with a rising rate regulator? I understand it tries to keep it at 14.7 when in boost, but im sure at a point it will reach the end of its fuel trim with a biger injector with lots of fuel pressure.

Im not trying to start an argument, you have NGC and I don't and ive never messed with a turbo car with NGC. However I think with a large rate of gain you might be able to get out of stoich in boost.

Nope. Throw a OBDII scanner on it. You won't be able to get it into open loop consistantly without pulling the o2. But 36lb/hr injectors @ 90psi fuel pressure wasn't enough to make it rich at 8-9 psi of boost pressure. But with the o2 unplugged, in open loop, boost was great.

That sucks, ohh well. I was just wondering about it. How did unsuperman manage his turbo, he didnt use an upstream sensor?

I don't know if I should tell on him, but he just lives with a 14.7:1 a/f ratio and crosses his fingers that it won't blow.

^ rly?! out of all people i would have expected him to be on top of something like that, not just winging it. he doesn't come around here to much anymore does he...?


.Chris

Yea man you sure about that? I know he got up to 10 psi, he had to have something up his sleeve.

Well, I was talking to him about it, and he's actually running a really small turbo. Small enough that it's really not making much power. I didn't ask him if he deadened his knock sensor, but if he didn't, the ECU would have sensed knock and retarded timing so he didn't blow it. That would explain why he ran slower times at higher boost levels. Also would be keeping his motor from blowing.

He had washers in his knock sensor, 16 PSI on a stock turbo from a Chrysler Lebaron that is leaking like a sieve...and his log exhaust manifold is leaking pretty bad. His car has been pretty b0rk3d lately too, something broke and his lazy ass hasn't fixed it lol.

That would do it... Yea, mine broke too. I hate transmission swaps. Hopefully back to roadworthy on Saturday.

His is doing something where when you put the key in and turn it, it dosen't do anything. I've been bugging him about it alot to fix it, but...he's lazy.

Anyway, is there a way to wire a switch in line with the upper o2 sensor, so you can turn it off when you want to run it hard or whatever, and then turn it back on when you're done?

Sure. Although I'm not sure how the ecu would like that. You might have to turn the car off and start it back up to have it run right.

Adam_T wrote:hey guys i just wanted to give a huge bulliten question and get a lot of responses back before i purchase this...

Project: Putting a stock srt4 turbo system into my 05 sxt and running it at 5psi boost for the time being.


Parts going to buy: (if there are any more...let me know)

tock srt turbo/manifold
the adapter plate you will need to mount the turbo manifold
intake
iintercooler and all piping
downpipe
coolant overflow relocation
map clamp
return fuel system
rising rate FPR
stg 1 SRT4 injectors
turboxs blowoff
3 gauge pillar with boost/fuel pressure/wideband
also an oil presure but we idnt have a place to mount it...


a guy on srt forums is selling all that and saying that he wants to cus he installed it all but his CEL light keeps coming on and car goes into limp mode and he has NO cLUE

what do you guys think.

it seems you are getting all you need you just forgot the o2 housing and you are set also brackets and oil lines for the turbo

oh boy.


here it comes.

yes i know about the 14.7. the car had a wideband for a long time. and since i was one of the first with a turbo 03, i had to deal with it. at the time, the rrfpr was the awnser. so i got it. now i know. but the car runs, hard. so i dont care. plus i have a motorcycle and anohter car to drive, so i didnt care if it broke.

also, i had 40k miles of at LEAST 8psi, alot of times more, (when i still ran my profec b) 16psi all the time for races. i drove thecar everywhere for 2 1/12 years under these conditons. so i think its fare to say im not "praying and hoping" it wont blow up. i know it wont. i live in south florida with 90-100 degree heat, and it still ran fine. and yes, my knock snesor was deadened because it pulled timing due to my electirc cut out. so i deadened it till i had full timing. i got my egts from 1800+ to 1300ish after the timing fix.

also when i DID run 16psi i had no trouble keeping up with my freinds srt4 that trapped 112mph. tho i will NEVER claim a 112 trap, the car was faster then the 99.7 mph it netted. i also did that on 195 all season tires, at 45-50psi because i had no power steering. so launching and going wot wasd a fun time. i know the cars abilitys and i know how it runs. im sure there are better setups out there, but for a TINY turbo, at 8psi, 14.1 @ 99.7 isnt bad. my lebearn turbo is much smaller then a stock srt4 turbo. plus i run the sweet exhuast leak mod and a external wastegate with no dump tube. that with an open turbo, means i suck in a lot of my own exhuast. and i STILL run shit.

any questions, feel free to ask me. i have a bit of a clue what im doing...

edit, i also NEVER ran with the upstream unpluged

but the question is
is this all on stock internals

Yes, stock internals on all of em. UnSuperMan's turbo is teeny, so he's not making enough power to pop a rod. My best recorded time is faster than his by a hair, and I was running 8psi that day. If he cranks up the boost pressure, he gets hotter air, and no more power. Try 16psi with a 25g on stock internals. Then promptly look for a new motor, cuz that one would have a hole or 2 in it.
His car is the perfect example of a decent budget setup. It's pretty much topped out, with the exception of better tuning. Mine, on the other hand, is begging me to put decent internals in so I can crank it. 2 completely different kinds of systems, at completely different prices.
UnSuperMan does know what he's talking about. He's just ballsy about his motor's health. I wouldn't recommend anyone run a turbo system at the a/f ratios he is, especially someone that doesn't know what's going on yet.
Yea, I'm slightly drunk and rambling. Feel free to pipe in..

esteinmaier wrote:Yes, stock internals on all of em. UnSuperMan's turbo is teeny, so he's not making enough power to pop a rod. My best recorded time is faster than his by a hair, and I was running 8psi that day. If he cranks up the boost pressure, he gets hotter air, and no more power. Try 16psi with a 25g on stock internals. Then promptly look for a new motor, cuz that one would have a hole or 2 in it.
His car is the perfect example of a decent budget setup. It's pretty much topped out, with the exception of better tuning. Mine, on the other hand, is begging me to put decent internals in so I can crank it. 2 completely different kinds of systems, at completely different prices.
UnSuperMan does know what he's talking about. He's just ballsy about his motor's health. I wouldn't recommend anyone run a turbo system at the a/f ratios he is, especially someone that doesn't know what's going on yet.
Yea, I'm slightly drunk and rambling. Feel free to pipe in..

maxed out? no, my system isnt. close to it? yes. peak effiecentcy on that turbo is SLIGHTLY higher then 8psi. id say 15-19psi range. point being, itll easily make 230-250whp. a number im no where near, for alot of reasons. im also replacing the turbo with a little bigger t25 or t28, its sitting at my friends house. it was free and brand new, so its going on. its not huge, but will be more then enoght for my stock motor. plus it should net less low end tq with the bigger turbine housing, and hopfully save my motor at higher hp numbers.

people make 250-275whp on stock dohc 420a's in eclipses all day long. so when i get the car back, get the new turbo in, im shooting for 250+ on stock bottom end. should be fun hopfully. because 172whp is getting boring.

and yes i know, everyones going to yell and say our bottom ends are only good to 250wtq, but as many of you know, this isnt my first rodeo. ive been around for a bit, and did a bit of research. so if i blow it up, then i blow it up. but how do u think people found out a stock k20a from a rsx could make 500+ whp on a stock bottom end? they tried it. how many people have blown up 03+ motors with the lower compression? not many if any. if i need to break it to prove it, then i may. point is, im going to try.

Well, if you do blow it up, it's gonna be a great lesson for me. If I don't have to pay for new internals, I'll be quite happy.

yea i recently sold my internals

j.e. 8.8s
crowers
rings rods yada yada
to pay some bills. so ill be mad if i have to buy a new set...

come to think of it, novajoe went 13.6 at 109 on stock bottom end.

13.6 means nothing to me, but the 109 is money in the bank. thats a shit load of power reguardless of vehcile wieght.

Whatever happened to novajoe?

13.6 sounds very possible for me next time I go out. The megasquirt helped out a lot, and I will have switched over to a 1:1 instead of using a CF unit with boost reference unplugged, so I should be able to make quite a bit more power. Sometime in the next season I'll be switching over to forged pistons, 1000cc injectors, and e85. Should be good for low 12s, high 11s. Wish me luck.

Don't forget a clutch, maybe a PG LSD, and an extra trunk load of axles.

esteinmaier wrote:13.6 sounds very possible for me next time I go out. The megasquirt helped out a lot, and I will have switched over to a 1:1 instead of using a CF unit with boost reference unplugged, so I should be able to make quite a bit more power. Sometime in the next season I'll be switching over to forged pistons, 1000cc injectors, and e85. Should be good for low 12s, high 11s. Wish me luck.

the cf IS a 1:1 with the boost reference unplugged...