Some random questions about boost on SRT.

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 7:53 am

I don't have either heatshield on

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:26 pm

So whats the point of the heatshield with the stock turbo? Help the plug wires/coil or something?

But yeah I have an update:

I made it out there and he did the VAC line mod, like how he did it on his car. So WGA controls the boost instead of the computer. At the same time I was installing the "Old style" AGP WGA. We eventually got it all hooked up. I seriously sweated a gallon of water during this process of bieng in the hot heat and next to a hot engine. We double checked everything and we took it out for a spin. Spiked at 5 psi and held it in every gear. Shit. We figured this would happen. I was delerious at this point, tired and didn't really care. He told me to loosen up the two bolts that hold the WGA to the car and he adjusted it, I tightned them back up and we went on another run, same result. So he is thinking I got a Stage 2 WGA instead of the AGP because the "Stage 2 WGA doesn't like the vac line mod" So we put my stock WGA back on, and now I am only spiking 3 psi. Damn SRT-4's are pretty slow with no boost.

I hear the BOV opening and everything, no leaks, everything is zip tied. I have the stock BOV, no rice plate or anything, but I do have the AGP EVM plate but its not installed yet.

Here are some picts I just took, because I had no idea what he was doing when he was performing the "VAC line mod" (which I cannot find anywhere on SRTforums, but it works on his car, he spikes 19 psi and hold 15-16 with his Kinetic)

^^^ There was a vacuum line going to the intake now we just plugged it up.

Heres the solenoid pack and what looks to be removed.... Everything on the bottom is still there. The thick lines you see in the middle are aftermarket lines we got at Napa, one is hooked up to the BOV and the other is hooked up to the turbo somewhere in the back.

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:38 pm

Let the ECU control the boost. The car will run alot better.

oh.. I have one of those Coil Pack Heat Shields and I did the hood Scoop mod.

The Heat Shields are there to keep the heat down in the engine bay. Do they work? lol Dunno. Why would you want to keep the Turbo Hotter by wrapping it up?

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:57 pm

you have a boost leak, test for it, that is not a stage2 wastegate

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:21 pm

More to the story....

Almost right away after coming home there was a WTT on KCSR. The dude wanted to trade his Slowboy WGA (Kinetic) for a Stage 2, I said I had a Stage 2 thinking thats what it was and traded him straight up for his. so I plan on putting the Slowboy on tomorrow.

Why would I have a boost leak? I just performed a boost leak test a couple weeks ago and got it all the leaks fixed.. how could I get a boost leak by just taking off the WGA?

My guess is that the stock WGA starts to open at 4 psi, so now its not computer controlled so it barely opens up. (Have stock one back on.)

Heres a pict of the new one I got.

Is that hole normal in the WGA?

Thanks for answering all my n00b questions you guys.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:47 pm

yes the hole is normal, if you messed with the vac lines at all you should boost leak test, those get pressurized too.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 12:15 am

Ok cool. I am gonna double check all my connections tomorrow. My gauge is holding vacuum at 20 on idle... Which is what it did before.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:48 pm

Yeah I didn't have a boost leak. Installed the Slowboy WGA, and I checked everything and now I am spiking 16 psi and it slowly drops down to 13 past 4500k. So happy to have boost again!

Could I raise it a bit more? I was told 17 psi is the best bet on stock fuel. It feels so good to have the WGA control the boost, its just like BAM all at once.

I had to modify the stock heatshield for it to fit back on.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 1:45 am

if you are below 3000 feet i would stay under 17lbs but you could put a wideband on for sure

heres my stocker heatshield from so long ago, it looked good enough to trick a dodge tech into thinking it was stock back in the day.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 10:46 am

dysphagia wrote:if you are below 3000 feet i would stay under 17lbs but you could put a wideband on for sure

heres my stocker heatshield from so long ago, it looked good enough to trick a dodge tech into thinking it was stock back in the day.

That looks better than mine! I took some metal cutter and cut it a bit and twisted it off.

My car has no warranty so no problem.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:37 am

I got the P-1187 code the other day... I am totally regretting having that dude do the "vacuum line mod" on my car. So I was told its basically an overboost code. Weird time to get it... Because I was just cruisin around and the light came on, wasn't at WOT at all that entire day. Any suggestions on how to get rid of that code? Will it affect my car at all?

I am going to be installing the AGP EVM BOV on my car, and I bought some copper gasket stuff from O'reilly's. (Paste on with brush)

Will this work? Avoid the wholes I assume when I put it on? (If its even the right stuff)

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:19 pm

Yea.. I'm not a fan of taking the boost off of PCM control. Something weird always happens. Put the vacuum lines back to stock, pull the ASD fuse in the fuse box and go from there.

I didnt use any gasket sealant for my BOV. Just the paper gasket that came with the kit and it NEVER leaked.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 1:02 pm

My AGP didn't come with a gasket. I also bought it brand new from AGP. So thats why I bought the copper sealant.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 1:04 pm

weird, call em up and ask em wazzup?! Also, did you fix your boost hose mod back to stock?

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 1:22 pm

kc2002acr wrote:weird, call em up and ask em wazzup?! Also, did you fix your boost hose mod back to stock?

Uhhh....no. I have all the stock lines but not sure how its gonna go back.

I called them up and its busy.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 2:25 pm

Finally got ahold of them and they told me to use the gray RTV sealant. Blah. I guess I have to take back that copper crap. Time to find the receipt..

I also made a couple videos... So you can hear the noise..

Disregard my non-functioning gauges that need to be fixed. The Oil pressure is all set up, I just need to mess with the back of the gauge.. Getting rid of the AFR since its ghey.

Listen at the end of the second one..You can hear it really good...

I am only spiking 15 psi now with that code.

I cannot find the ASD fuse.... Nothing is marked ASD...

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 2:48 pm

inside the engine bay.. That fuse box. Inside there's a Yellow Fuse and its marked "Blah Blah blah.. ASD"

Are you sure you don't have a BOV already installed because the stock Surge Valve doesnt make that noise.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 3:04 pm

MoxHairR/T wrote:inside the engine bay.. That fuse box. Inside there's a Yellow Fuse and its marked "Blah Blah blah.. ASD"

Are you sure you don't have a BOV already installed because the stock Surge Valve doesnt make that noise.

No its stock. A CAI gives it that noise, check out the MPX FAQ...

I am not that dumb on where the fusebox is, I looked at them all and I didn't see it.

I will look again.
Ahhh found it, its like a NYG color.

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 3:16 pm

Mine NEVER sounded like that. That shit is loud. Even with Stage 3 my Stock Surge Valve is quiet.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 3:34 pm

I know!!! Its that damn vac line mod I tell yah! The dude that did it has an 04 as well with the same mod and he has the Mopar BOV with Injen SRI. Its really loud but sounds good with A LOT less flutter.

Note to self:
Stop ghetto moding your car with ghetto parts.

Plans: Lose K&Crap redneck intake for a 3'' cai or sri. Put vac lines back to stock. Put stock WGA on.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:20 pm

that my friend is compressor surge, i bet 20bucks that guy fuxored the vac lines to the surge valve. hookup the pink and blue lines like shown here (http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthr ... ne+diagram), leave the black and green capped at the solenoid, cap the red line. run a vac line from the nipple on the back of the turbo (where the green line was) straight to the WG. too bad you dont live closer we could have this straightened out in ten minutes

edit: i was just looking at the pictures, he used the red line on the wg its not supposed to be there so dont get confused. if you want you can hit me up on aim and i can help you out a little more.

dysphagia7492 on yahoo and aim

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:47 pm

Thanks alot dude! I start another semester at the college tomorrow. I will defiantley add you though. So any advice for the time being? Should I just lay off the throttle and stay out of boost? I do not want to hurt my turbo.

I did get rid of the code though by taking that fuse out and reseting the battery. I did one WOT run and it was hitting 16 psi again... Damn this sucks.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 12:33 pm

keep it out of boost until you reroute the lines, if you print that diagram out it really wont take you very long to do it

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 1:20 pm

Theres also a diagram under the hood... But its confusing as hell

The dude that did it to my car insists its fine. I am just getting a different noise from the WGA and the vac mod...

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:19 pm

Okay... here we go.

I took a bunch of pictures of my stock vac lines and hopefully someone can describe to me where they exactly go. I checked out the vac diagrams, but they are pretty confusing in my opinion. Because I am a tard.

Okay here is a black line and a blue line. Where does the line with the ziptie go? I know there are three areas for connections around the turbo.
1. The BOV
2. a place in the middle of the turbo... Is that the surge valve?
3. The very back of the turbo

I am guessing it goes on the middle area aka surge valve, I think I remember it being there or the BOV...

How about the portion of the blue line with no rubber?
I am guessing that ties into the left side of the black line pictured below.

I know the black portion on the right goes on the nipple on my intake pictured above.

So where would the other portion of the black line go wtih the rubber on the end? I am guessing it connects to the white line since it fits in snugly and there is no rubbers on each end of the white line.

I know for a fact the white line plugs somehwere in the solenoid pack.
_________________________________________

Now we got these two:

A green one and the pink one. I know the portion with the tags is going at the back of the car somewhere and the other side is going to the solenoid for the pink one that is. Because I can see where he tore the rubber a bit. So the question is what does the green one tie into? The white line?

And where does the stock red line go that he currently was on the WGA thats leading to the back of the turbo? After checking some picts out before the mod it looks like it goes to the IC. But where on the solenoid pack does it go? Theres a vac cap now on the IC to where the red line went.

I also noticed theres a vac cap on a green line in my engine bay right now that he put on there when he disconnected something from it. What goes to it?

This might be a giant puzzle to you guys but its really hard to explain it in words.
Heres a picture of what it looked like before the "Vac line mod" that I used to figure some things out.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:46 am

MyNeonSaysHi wrote:Okay... here we go.

I took a bunch of pictures of my stock vac lines and hopefully someone can describe to me where they exactly go. I checked out the vac diagrams, but they are pretty confusing in my opinion. Because I am a tard.

Okay here is a black line and a blue line. Where does the line with the ziptie go? I know there are three areas for connections around the turbo.
1. The BOV
2. a place in the middle of the turbo... Is that the surge valve?
3. The very back of the turbo

the ziptie goes on the nipple on the turbo. the black line gets hooked up to the intake. the blue line goes to the solenoid. looks like the guy gaffled your rubber connector for the end. it goes to solenoid number 3 on the top

I am guessing it goes on the middle area aka surge valve, I think I remember it being there or the BOV...

How about the portion of the blue line with no rubber?
I am guessing that ties into the left side of the black line pictured below.

I know the black portion on the right goes on the nipple on my intake pictured above.

So where would the other portion of the black line go wtih the rubber on the end? I am guessing it connects to the white line since it fits in snugly and there is no rubbers on each end of the white line.

dont put this line back in its the stock wastegate line

I know for a fact the white line plugs somehwere in the solenoid pack.

what the hell!? he took off the white line? it goes in solenoid number two in the middle connector and then over to the sensor in the drivers side fender. once again looks like he lost your connectors
_________________________________________

Now we got these two:

A green one and the pink one. I know the portion with the tags is going at the back of the car somewhere and the other side is going to the solenoid for the pink one that is. Because I can see where he tore the rubber a bit. So the question is what does the green one tie into? The white line?

dont use the green one it was the stock wastegate line. the pink goes from the middle of number 3 to the surge valve.

And where does the stock red line go that he currently was on the WGA thats leading to the back of the turbo? After checking some picts out before the mod it looks like it goes to the IC. But where on the solenoid pack does it go? Theres a vac cap now on the IC to where the red line went.

the red line goes from the cold side pipe to the top of the number two solenoid

I also noticed theres a vac cap on a green line in my engine bay right now that he put on there when he disconnected something from it. What goes to it?

This might be a giant puzzle to you guys but its really hard to explain it in words.
Heres a picture of what it looked like before the "Vac line mod" that I used to figure some things out.

now run a vac line from the remaining nipple on the turbo directly to the wastegate

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 12:06 am

Thank you!

where can I find the rubber connectors for the blue and white lines? Do they have them at auto stores?

Heres a post I got from sRTforums:

its running like shit because you dont have the proper lines hooked up.

you can only, and only...remove ALL vac lines if you have a wga and a true bov at the hardpipe.

you need install your black, blue, and pink lines. dont run the surge valve off of the TB. it wont work like that.
hook all those up to the solenoid and place them back to their correct ports.

the only lines you can really remove at this point are the black and green ones that go to/from the wga, and your redline.

install everything else, then report back.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 2:24 am

you can just use the appropriate size vac line cut into 2in sections

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:29 am

dysphagia wrote:you can just use the appropriate size vac line cut into 2in sections

Nice!