Some random questions about boost on SRT.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 6:38 pm

Did exactly that for the rubber connectors.

Had kc2002acr help me out a bit and this is whats gong on now...

White line is hooked up..

Picture of the solenoid pack, hooked it up like you said.

Removed the battery and the intake and here are some picts of what it looks like...
Pink line is going to surge valve and ties back into the solenoid pack. Middle part of the turbo, black line with white zipties is back in place and blue line is going to solenoid back. (that other blue line is for the oil pressure gauge.)
Kept the red line going from the WGA to the back of the turbo.

Runs really good.. the BOV responds alot better but it sounds the same. I think it has to do with the WGA. That changed the noise. No codes yet and I am spiking 16 psi.

I plan on putting on the AGP EVM here in a bit, wish me luck with the third bolt!!!

oklamopar · Post by **oklamopar** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 7:53 pm

looks right. zip tie all the connections

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 11:01 pm

Will do! I should of done that when I had everything apart. Oh well.

Got the AGP EVM surgevalve plate installed. Wow what a PITA! Had to remove the bolt for the turbo line to get it installed. Getting it off was cake. Putting it on was a different story.

Removing the oil line. 16mm. Was on there pretty tight, it was a banjo bolt with copper seals. I put it back on pretty tight like how it was. Test drove it no smoke so it wasn't leaking oil thank goodness. I have no idea

Copper Permatex around AGP EVM. I put a bit on the surge valve to on the flat spaces.

Installed!

Sounds awesome and no boost leaks!

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Aug 19, 2007 5:55 pm

I found the thread to the "vac line mod" And read all 44 pages.

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295846

I made a post on the very last page on my thoughts...

I think I will return back to stock... With the WGA and vac lines. Think thats a good idea you guys?

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:12 pm

glad I could help you out.

Car is greeeeeaaat!

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Sun Aug 19, 2007 11:43 pm

stick with the wastegate, just dont part throttle it

oklamopar · Post by **oklamopar** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 12:06 am

Yep. I have to watch how far i push the go pedal so as not to push 15+ psi @ 2,000 rpm. It gets easier the more you drive with it.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 12:39 am

I don't know how to drive my car anymore!!!

Any suggestions? So you really can't do pedal to the metal anymore with this setup? You have to build up your RPM's or something before you mash on it? I keep getting the P-1187 code! I am tired of resetting my batteyr and pulling that fuse. I do have the K&N CAI that is known for the weak elbow by the turbo. Doubt that has anything to do with the code... I also have a oil pressure gauge thats hooked up just not on the gauge part. so I have a pbue sensor going to my block...
I also have the intake area that usually has a line going from the valve cover to the intake. cutt off and rapped in duct tape.

I heard there is vacuum going throw that area from the VC. I just have a line with a ricer filter on it...

Throwing out ideas...

So keep this setup and use vac line from an auto store? I just don't know what to do at this point and I don't know why I keep getting this code. kkdfksdflsfds

oklamopar · Post by **oklamopar** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 1:07 am

If im below 3k rpm and i mash it bucks and snorts. at 3k and up i can bury the throttle and providing i get traction it hauls.
Im not sure why you keep getting the tip code. mine is only when im on the highway for a long time. My lines are just like the first picture on the link you posted. now my tip (white) line is still hooked from the solonoid to the sensor but the red one from the pressure pipe to the solonoid is disconected so it cant read pressure. Ive got my waste gate set at 17 psi and it falls to 14 or so at redline. (hopefully stage one will help with that.)

Since the only solonoid thats hooked up is the bov thats what i took pics of.

good luck and let me know if i can help.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 4:53 am

put the red line back and disconnect the battery.see if that helps, i have an 05 and ran the red line till 23lbs on the stock turbo and still run it on 17lbs on a 3147

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 8:49 am

Well I have an 04... The 05's are more sensitive so I been told....

I will hook my white line back up. Where is your white line at? On solenoid number 2 green?

Oklamopar,

Are you running hardpipes?
I do not see a vac line going from the back of the turbo to your WGA?

I see you used the blue line, but you have a piece of vac hose over it instead of using the stock connector..

Edit:
I got rid of the blue line and hooked this black line that I wasn't using before..

It fits on the solenoid perfectlyy and on the turbo port perfectly...but...its longer and thicker with more bends.

I reset the battery and took that fuse out once again and hooked the above up along with the white line. I cruised around for a bit to get the computer to re learn everything again. Took third gear really slowly up to 3k rpms was still in vacuum and then went all the way down, it zoomed up to 16 psi pretty fast. I did the same with 2nd gear. It feels like youa re controlling the turbo in a sense, because when you kind of go partial throttle you can hear it spoolin up and then you go down all the way and whoosh there you go! Should I control my throttle more and don't go all the way down? Do I have to just ease into it slower? Hopefully I don't get a code when I turn it on.

People get the code I am getting from un-hooking the red line, but thats only with 05 models.

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 9:45 am

This is why Ive never messed with my Vacuum Lines. I've never had any issues with PTB and I can drive anyway I want to.

oklamopar · Post by **oklamopar** » Mon Aug 20, 2007 2:02 pm

The white line is in the stock position, just never removed it fully. the tip solenoid has no vacuum to it so it doesn't really matter.
No I'm all stock pipes.
There is a black line going from the rear nipple on the turbo to the wastgate.
The reason You see a black line going to the blue is that my factory connector disintegrated on me.

I hear my turbo spool all the time. they will as long as the engine is running.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 2:31 pm

Well crap. I was gonna try to convert back to stock and put my stock WGA back on and the pink nipple broke on the solenoid. So I glued the part where it broke onto it and put everything back together.

Does the dealership carry a solenoid bracket w/o the vac lines? Or do I have to get the entire shabang?

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Aug 27, 2007 12:45 pm

Ordered the solenoid bracket through the STEALERSHIP

$140 with tax.

What a good deal!!!!! Man I am sooo lucky to get such a good deal on it.

X100000000000000

oklamopar · Post by **oklamopar** » Mon Aug 27, 2007 5:29 pm

That bites. I guess no bone yards around you have srt-4's.
I have a friend that works at a yard. that's where i got my 05 tranny for $700.00 out of Minnesota. I call him on little things and he calls them. Maybe next time.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:48 pm

All I know is that this million dollar bracket better have the solenoids on them.If not I am gonna be too happy.

Hhahaha! It didn't, it was just a small little metal piece! The parts guy couldn't believe it was $140, he was shocked. We found out a needed the middle solenoid which was $40 with tax... So I got $100 credited to my CC. Will be getting it tomorrow.

I got a question.

If I re-route my vac lines back to stock, could I still use my aftermarket WGA? I am thinking about putting my stock one back on and selling it for a Stage 2 WGA.

any ideas?

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Sep 05, 2007 1:37 pm

I am returning my vacuum lines back to stock and I was wondering if this looks right:

^^^ Did this tie into anything else?

^^^Where does the black and green line go on solenoid number two? (Far left closest to battery) I am guessing I have them in the right place after seeing the vac diagram. Do I ned to put the red line back in there? I currently have it capped off on the cold pressure pipe.

^^^Was this originally capped? (where the two elbows are) IF not what went to it?

Why are the stock vacuum lines made out of plastic? They are a PITA to move around.

If you have the stock vacuum lines on your car, PLEASE chime in! Pictures and comments of how they are stock would be great!

Thank You!

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:49 pm

Well I have all my lines back to stock since that last post. I needed a line going from cap on the T, to the cap on the brake booster. (top picture)

I am planning on taking off my AGP, because I have a pretty bad boost leak from it when I tested it at school. Air was coming out like crazy out of the vents. So I am thinking about just taking it back off and using my stock surge valve. I remember reading somewhere about a quarter mod or something, where they place a coin in there so the surge valve holds boost better and doesn't bleed?

I was also considering the Boomba BOV with the 13lb spring. But that piece is $117 ship and I don't know how having it benefits from the stock surge valve.

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:01 pm

the stock surge valve can handle up to about 28psi, most of the time there is a minute leak around the valve that makes it sound like its coming out of the evm

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 6:24 pm

sorry to thread jack, dude, but i'm having a problem similar to the PTB surge you were having in one of the vids in the thread. i installed a 3" AGP CAI and am now getting a fluttering sound when i come off throttle at low vac (around 5-12 inHg). the BOV (mopar rice plate) wooshes, and at the same time i get a flutter sound. the flutter sounds exactly like the flutter i started getting after installing the intake, that both AGP and MPx says is normal with a CAI. it's not loud like the flutter in myneonsayshi's vid. I'm also hesitant to think it's compressor surge since it never happens when in boost. I don't go into boost under 3k rpm's, altho often the gauge will sit on 0 (still don't get the flutter/woosh when that happens, only in vacuum). the only vac (?) line difference with AGP intake vs stock air box is the line that attaches to the factory air box. the install instructions said to leave it vented to atmosphere, and considering the air box isn't sealed or under pressure, i don't see how that can be harmful, altho i don't know what that line goes to. anyone have any thoughts?

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:31 pm

dysphagia wrote:the stock surge valve can handle up to about 28psi, most of the time there is a minute leak around the valve that makes it sound like its coming out of the evm

Even w/o a "plate" Just completely stock?

Wenuden,

I think thats normal what you have. My Typhoon CAI made pretty bad fluttering. My vid is different because thats when I had the stock surge valve with no EVM plate. I know have the AEM SRI and theres like hardly any flutter at all. It has a vac line going to the intake.

Do you have the stock vac lines routed? Or are they re-routed?
What kind of wastegate do you have?

Wenuden · Post by **Wenuden** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:02 pm

everything is stock as far as i can tell. all the lines from the solenoid are connected to something on the other end, and the car ran fine (and still does, i'm just confused by the flutter/woosh combo) before the intake install. the only line that is not attached to something is the small one that attaches to the intake. i think it might actually be the black line that you have a pic of on this page. in the pic it's out of the car, looks like it's laying on a piece of carpet. my uncapped line is larger than the other plastic lines on the solenoid.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 11:49 am

That black piece I have on the carpet is the line that goes to WGA and ties into the solenoid I believe...

You have the Mopar BOV, so its pretty much the same as my piece.

Installing a aftermarket intake, especially a CAI adds a whoosh noise and you can hear the rice plate better. Seeing your dyno numbers, I wouldn't worry about it.

all I know is that I have a boost leak coming from my AGP EVM plate and I need to either take it off and just use the stock surge valve or get the Boomba... I would like to do hard pipes and a BOP with a true BOV but I don't see any benefits in that, other than a bit of increase flow from the UPP and will let you run higher boost without compressor surge. I could even re-install my AGP plate with a paper gasket similar to the rice plates... and see if that helps. I don't think copper permatex did the trick for me.

If only Dodge designed the turbo so the stock surge valve was in a better location, I would play with it more...

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:17 am

Well I was curious and asked Jon @ AGP about why air was blowing out of the vents during my test...

Here is his response:

[QUOTE=Jon@AGP]The stock BOV is prone to blowing open under higher than stock boost. Depending on how much pressure you pressure tested your system to, it is very possible that is what happened. It may not necessarily open all the way, but it can push on the plunger enough for air to escape. That is one of the main reasons why people go to an aftermarket BOV solution.[/QUOTE]

Hmmmm, I wonder why the Stage 3r has the same piece as the stock turbo. What does the Stage 3r run PSI wise? Its over 20 isn't it?

Maybe its the added weight from the plate attached to the plunger that causes it to open up pre-maturely... I noticed my AGP piece is heavier than the Mopar piece and seems to be made of a different material.

MoxHair · Post by **MoxHair** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:28 am

MyNeonSaysHi wrote: Hmmmm, I wonder why the Stage 3r has the same piece as the stock turbo. What does the Stage 3r run PSI wise? Its over 20 isn't it?

23psi

dysphagia · Post by **dysphagia** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:11 am

MyNeonSaysHi wrote:Well I was curious and asked Jon @ AGP about why air was blowing out of the vents during my test...

Here is his response:

Jon@AGP wrote:The stock BOV is prone to blowing open under higher than stock boost. Depending on how much pressure you pressure tested your system to, it is very possible that is what happened. It may not necessarily open all the way, but it can push on the plunger enough for air to escape. That is one of the main reasons why people go to an aftermarket BOV solution.

Hmmmm, I wonder why the Stage 3r has the same piece as the stock turbo. What does the Stage 3r run PSI wise? Its over 20 isn't it?

Maybe its the added weight from the plate attached to the plunger that causes it to open up pre-maturely... I noticed my AGP piece is heavier than the Mopar piece and seems to be made of a different material.

none of that would change the operation of the spring, my recommendation to you is maybe take it off and re-seal it with rtv and let it sit for 5 hours or so before driving it. if that doesnt work you can try putting large washers in under the spring one at a time untill it stops leaking

i know i mentioned this before but my stock surge valve held 26psi on the street and 28psi in boost leak tests

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:34 pm

That might of been the mistake I made!!! Right after installing it, we put it all back together and went for a WOT test run....

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:41 pm

I emailed permatex on my situation. Since no one really has a definate answer on how to stop EVM plates from leaking and what to use. Paper or some sort of anareobic sealer, or rtv. Next time I will let it cure.

I absolutely hate taking it apart though!