SRT turbo Coolant and Oil lines.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 12:56 pm

Hey guys I saw this on the org, and just thought it might be worthy of a sticky possibly. Its just an idea of what size NPT and AN fittings to use for your oil and coolant lines An pricing and everything.

Mattdog wrote:This is meant to help us NOOB’s get moving on the SRT turbo project based upon research that I did for my turbo project. I plan to put this in my Regular SOHC/Magnum SOHC to SRT Turbo Adapters thread. the lines with slides over the stock SRT feed line and gets clamped in place. Also the stock SRT turbo lines are slippery on the outside. I took some sandpaper and roughed them up before using 2 clamps on them.

If anything isn’t accurate in here, please let me know.

My email addy
customneongauges@comcast.net

Oil Feed Line
The oil feed lines are normally sourced from the oil pressure sender in the back of the block using a standard cast iron 3/8” NPT (National Pipe Thread) Tee fitting and a 3/8” NPT nipple. Generally the oil pressure sender remains on the end of the Tee fitting and the oil feed line comes off of the side of the Tee fitting. The stock SRT feed line is 3/8” or 6AN. You need to get a 3/8” NPT to 6AN adapter to hook up the 6AN line fitting. I just used a straight 6AN fitting and a couple of inches to connect to the shortened SRT Feed Line. Whatever brand fuel hose you use to connect the lines with slides over the stock SRT feed line and gets clamped in place. Also the stock SRT turbo lines are slippery on the outside. I took some sandpaper and roughed them up before using 2 clamps on them.

Oil Return Line
My stock SRT feed line didn’t come new with a seal to seal at the turbo drain flange and the dealer didn’t show a part for that. I just ended up using some oil resistant silicone gasket maker and it hasn’t leaked yet. A standard turbo seal off ebay or wherever may work as well.
The stock SRT return line is about a foot long 5/8” (10AN) tube. You want to connect about a foot of your favorite 10AN hose to the end of the tube to run down to your oil pan. To return the oil into the oil pan you want to use a 10AN bulkhead fitting and a 10AN 90* fitting to connect to the hose that you bought. The return line must be above the oil level and is usually placed on the flat area just above the drain plug. Seal wise you need to either use 10AN stat-o-seals or have it welded.
To drill that 5/8” hole for the 10AN fitting I grabbed a 5/8” wood drill bit (the flat spade kind) and it worked perfect. I took my time and it shaved right through the soft aluminum. The bit still appears to work too…

Coolant Feed and Return Lines
There are two ways of doing this, Tee off the water lines or a combination of the water lines and down on the back of the block you can source the water. I just Tee’d off the water lines. The stock water lines are 5/8” and the SRT turbo coolant lines are 3/8”. There are no commonly available Tees for this that I could find. Don’t bother trying to make stuff out of copper fittings, been there done that and failed. The real solution is right at your local home depot in the indoor plumbing aisle. You want to find the “Watts” brass fittings in yellow/black bags. You need 4 ½” NPT by 5/8” hose barb fittings and 2 ½” NPT by 3/8” hose barb fittings. These fittings run just over $2 each. To connect all the fittings you want to pick up 2 ½” NPT Tee fittings. If you want they sell matching brass ones for $6 each or if your poor like most neon owners walk over to the other plumbing aisle and get the cast iron ¾”NPT fittings for $1 each. Be sure and pick up a lot of clamps. I used 6 smaller clamps on the 3/8” lines (2 on the steel tubes, 1 on the barb fitting) and 4 large clamps for the 5/8” water lines.
You may also want to consider using the steel SRT coolant lines that run around the block…

Fuel System Sites
I used these guys… http://www.amstreetrod.com/CatalogIndex.php4
This site is good too… http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/

Spoolboy Mod
http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/plfuelmods.html
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=188969

AOBE (Map Clamp)
http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/howto.html

BEGI website
http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/pr ... ction.html

“Some” fuel system info and SRT part numbers coming soon…

SRT Oil Feed Line 5045038-AA List=$11.75 Sale Amount=$8.46

SRT Oil Return Line 4884278-AC (Old #=CH4884278-AB) List=$7.60 Sale Amount=$5.46

SRT Coolant Feed Line*** 4884281-AF (Old #=CH4884281-AE) List=$21.95 Sale Amount=$15.78

SRT Coolant Return Line 4884283-AC (Old #=CH4884283-AB) List=$21.10 Sale Amount=$15.18

***I believe the shorter of the 2 coolant lines is the return and the longer one with the loop is the feed. I also just realized that the new feed line that I got doesn't match the old one. The new one apparently connects to the water jacket where as the old one connected to the heater lines. See pic.

Coolant Line Copper Crush Washers 5045039-AA List=$1.70 Sale Amount=$1.20

heyitsstock · Post by **heyitsstock** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:55 pm

sweet deal.... thats helps me understand things alot better

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:06 pm

Yea it helped me understand better too

Kevin_GP · Post by **Kevin_GP** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 5:07 pm

Yeah, the way the oil feed is done is a horrible idea. No matter how well you clamp the line, oil pressure reaches in excess of 80psi and the pipe will blow eventually. It happened to me twice having my oil feed that way. A better way of doing it is to flare the stock oil feed (hard to do) and use an- fittings to attach the hose. Or what I did was braze stainless line on to the stock hose, and its worked well for over 2 years.

The rest of the info is fine.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 6:11 pm

Kevin_GP wrote:eah, the way the oil feed is done is a horrible idea. No matter how well you clamp the line, oil pressure reaches in excess of 80psi and the pipe will blow eventually. It happened to me twice having my oil feed that way.

Yea as for the oil feed, I planned on going the an fitting route with high pressure hoses, I've heard that it was hard to flare the stock feed. I was reading some of your old posts about your setup and some of the problems that you and others were having with going the route of clamping the line.

Kevin_GP · Post by **Kevin_GP** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 7:40 pm

Cbussilver01es wrote:
Kevin_GP wrote:eah, the way the oil feed is done is a horrible idea. No matter how well you clamp the line, oil pressure reaches in excess of 80psi and the pipe will blow eventually. It happened to me twice having my oil feed that way.
Yea as for the oil feed, I planned on going the an fitting route with high pressure hoses, I've heard that it was hard to flare the stock feed. I was reading some of your old posts about your setup and some of the problems that you and others were having with going the route of clamping the line.

Yep, I tried to flare the stock line with one of the cheap flare tools and I couldn't do it. Clamping the line will work for a while, but one day it will fail. It happened to me going 80mph on the highway on a 8 hour road trip, so it was at a high psi (60 something psi) and it was really hot. But if you can flare the line and add a fitting that would work, if not take it to a shop that can braze, I paid like 70 bucks for the labor and a braided line and they even installed it on my car.

turbodudey · Post by **turbodudey** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 12:08 am

For my oil feed line, I used an -AN to hardline compresson adapter from Jegs.

This is what I used: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 5_-1_10019

It's super easy to install and works great.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:54 am

Turbodudey wrote:It's super easy to install and works great.

You have an specific pix of it in your project log? It looks pretty simple, Im a visual learner so ya... lol

heyitsstock · Post by **heyitsstock** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:44 pm

^ for real

turbodudey · Post by **turbodudey** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:43 pm

Cbussilver01es wrote:
Turbodudey wrote:It's super easy to install and works great.
You have an specific pix of it in your project log? It looks pretty simple, Im a visual learner so ya... lol

Sorry. No, I don't have any specific pics of the compression fittings.

The OD of the srt-4 oil and coolant hard lines is exactly 3/8", so the 3/8" compression fittings work perfectly. Basically, you just cut the end of the hardline off so you have a square smooth end, then slide the compression nut on, slide on the ferrul, butt the fitting on to the end of the line and tighten the nut down.

Pretty painless I thought...

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:42 pm

Ahhh I get it now, once you insert the line into the adapter and putt the ferrule on, it kinda acts like a seal so when you tighten the nuts up, everything runs smooth and flush with no leaks. Kinda like the same process when installing an aftermarket pressure gauge or vaccum gauge when you slide the plastic tubing in through the nut and then put the ferrule on and tighten both sides up.