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Rough transition into boost?

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 8:22 am
by teamliviD
First off I have a 2K2 R/T with a Chill Factory 16g, HRC Port Fueler, HRC "Fuel Mapper" aka map clamp, and Spoolboy mod.

When I start going into boost its real rough and the a/f goes as high as 17.1 for a second then back down to 13.2. When going into boost it feels like the car is going to cut off or blow up. There is only 2 wires coming off the fuel mapper, red and black. I have the red "t'd" into the signel wire and the black "t'd" into the ground wire about 2" from the map sensor. The fuel mapper doenst seem to be adjustable.

The way the port fueler works is it adds 1psi of fuel to every 1psi of boost. That seems to work. I have the idle fuel preasure set to roughly 53psi. I have 21lb injectors for normal driving and 40lb injector with the port fueler when I hit boost. So a total of 61lbs.

I'm not sure whats going on with the car and why its doing this. I also have a full Crane ignition system with timing retard that I havent installed yet. I'm hoping once I install that and set the timing retard that should help.

What do you guys think??

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:33 pm
by Kevin_GP
Well, if its going lean your port fueler is not tuned right. If its stumbling/dieing, you don't have your mapclamp set right. Both of these are caused by retaining the stock computer. Your car is going lean because the stock computer is struggling to go from closed to open loop. Part throttle boost and going into boost at low rpm was always trouble for me with a rrfpr and stock computer. The computer takes a while to go into open loop. You should be able to counter act it with the port fueler, alittle bit.... It also sounds like you don't have your map clamp set up right, because you shouldn't have stumbling problems.

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 4:46 pm
by Jamie
yeah im with this guy here, that has map clamp written all over it. hahn actually sent me a bad map clamp with my kit the first time... so they do go bad. basically all their clamp is, is just the same thing as the AOBE, a resister and a 0-50v potentiometer. i think the schematics are in a sticky somewhere.

hahns clamp is not adjustable, basically they build it then fill it with that apoxi so it doesnt come apart. then they put the plastic top on it.

the red infact does go to the signal which i believe is the 4.5v line when the car is engine off ignition on. the other does go to the ground. try soldering them just for shits and giggles... tees can be kinda unreliable.

hahn sent me a new one but I built one in about 20 minutes at the cost of about 10-15 bucks. if you need some help building one let me know i can walk you through it, no big deal. please please please dont buy another clamp from them, they want like 100 bucks for that thing!!!

good luck and let me know if you need anything.
J :rockon:

Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:10 am
by lambostealth
I'm not quite sure why you are running a return setup with the portfueler......


Mine runs smooth, transitions to boost seamlessly, and pulls hard all the way to redline.

I'm just running the 32lb injectors tgat came with the portfueler, and stock primary injectors, as well as a Walbro 225lph. pump.

What's your reason for all the extra fuel?

Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 6:10 am
by INVUJerry
I know your flux capacitor is fluxing, but is your map clamp clamping? It might not be set low enough, or, it also might not be clamping enough. If you have a volt meter, I'd check it out, I donno what it supposed to be set at, but you probably do.