sohc t3 log or srt turbo setup
It's a good piece except for the fact the flange is on the back side which will cause the turbo to possibly if not likely hit the firewall. The treadstone mannys have the flange on top.
2004 Dodge Neon SRT4 (New beast)
Owner of B&P Repair https://www.facebook.com/pages/B-and-P- ... 9500229160
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by the time you put a flange on for an external wastegate, you could've bought the one I just sold!
'02 Chrysler Neon RT - SOHC 50trim+Crane 007 ---DEAD---
'05 Dodge Neon SRT4 - DSP & bolt ons ---SOLD---
'08 Dodge Caliber SRT4 - MS1Kv3
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[img][img]http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx15 ... 172238.jpg[/img][/img]
heres a picture of my hahn manifold, mine has been modified for an external wastegate but you can see where the turbo sits
heres a picture of my hahn manifold, mine has been modified for an external wastegate but you can see where the turbo sits
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This looks very familiar...... I think Chris text me a picture of this car earlier.jckevns wrote:[img][img]http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx15 ... 172238.jpg[/img][/img]
heres a picture of my hahn manifold, mine has been modified for an external wastegate but you can see where the turbo sits
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Wow man, I really don't know about that manifold. I agree with whats already been said. With the flange at that angle you are going to run into some serious clearance issues with anything over 15g sized,...if that. As to the waste gate flange,..or lack there of lol..you would be limited to internal or trying to weld on your own. Best bet is to sell it off and try to get an offset top mount T3/4 and a bottom mount waste gate flange like the older cast iron STR log or a newer ASP Stainless log and build off that.
took a few quick pics of my STR....its rusty but you get the idea
expensive stuff sucks, trust me my build will take a long time because of it but in the end you will be much happier and much safer with the right parts
took a few quick pics of my STR....its rusty but you get the idea
expensive stuff sucks, trust me my build will take a long time because of it but in the end you will be much happier and much safer with the right parts
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The "screamer tube" or dump tube can be left open if you dont mind it being a little loud when it goes off or you can weld back into the exhaust..
If you get a 38mm they have pre-made tubes on Ebay for cheap...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-35MM- ... 02&vxp=mtr
If you get a 38mm they have pre-made tubes on Ebay for cheap...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-35MM- ... 02&vxp=mtr
Oh yeah he just atb my house yesterday lolGroceryGetter wrote:Chris Long, with the SRT turbo 1gnjckevns wrote:Dyno is coming soon gotta finalise the tune with erik. Its a s252 turbo running 18 psiBoosted22sxt wrote:Jckevns have you dynoed your sohc yet? What Turbo are you running. S16g or 20g
Grocerygetter- which chris I know so many of them lol
As for the dump tube off the wastegate its just pointed towards the ground
[img][img]http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx15 ... 093853.jpg[/img][/img]
with the hahn manifold it sits so low there is no clearance issues for a large turbo
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The STR manifolds are pretty sweet. The new ASP Cast stainless ones are freaking awesome!!! The dump tube for the waste gate can be either open to atmosphere (screamer tube) or rerouted into the exhaust system like Mike said. There are benefits and trade offs for both. Open screamer tubes can be quite loud depending on size of the waste gate, turbo, piping diameter, and pipe length. However, with an open waste gate dump the excess gas is vented out into the atmosphere where it will dissipate and allow the turbo to slow down due to the lack of exhaust gasses pushing on the turbine. Now with internal and rerouted waste gates that excess pressure is dumped right into the same pipe as the rest of the exhaust gasses and depending on the specifics of the turbo this excess gas can sometimes make its way back into the turbine causing boost spikes, surges, so on and so on. However, a routed waste gate dump will be substantially quieter than an open dump. Personal preference and configuration will decide which is the best way to run. If anyone has anything to add to this or can offer assurance or correction, I welcome the input. Hope this info helps someone.
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You have a little bit wrong. Venting wastegate to atmosphere is most efficient. When routing wastegate back into the exhaust, you don't surge. you reduce pressure differential so you don't spin the turbine as fast at the same exhaust pressure. In order to maintain the same boost pressure, you need equivalent pressure differential and exhaust pressure pre turbine costs power.
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Oh OK I get it, that makes sense.
Thanks for the correction Erick!
Thanks for the correction Erick!
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You would be correct in a hypothetical situation where the wastegate is dumping exhaust gas at a time when primary flow is less than venting though. But since that situation is impossible, it's not as complex as you took it.
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Nice! Simpler is better in my opinion. Thanks once again man. Good stuff to know
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If your patient and wait you can find an srt swap for cheap or turbo pt cruiser swap.
When I say cheap I mean cheap, cheaper than any here can imagine......
I'm sorry but turboing single cams is pointless just as is "building one" for any gains other than reliability ( JE pistons,eagle rods etc ) Toss a R/T head with some self porting work, cam, ported intake and exhaust in and call it a day. You will make 20HP less at worst than a guy that spent $1200 more in parts alone just on the bottom end.
Starting a project with nothing only nets you something.
I did my homework for a while on the single cam then laid down till feeling went away.
torque @ stock on N/A 2.4 = 165
Torque on low boost 2.0 single cam 150-160?
/\ No brainer.
Swap to a 2.4 first then add a turbo bits and pieces at a time....no fabrication needed since srt4..........
When I say cheap I mean cheap, cheaper than any here can imagine......
I'm sorry but turboing single cams is pointless just as is "building one" for any gains other than reliability ( JE pistons,eagle rods etc ) Toss a R/T head with some self porting work, cam, ported intake and exhaust in and call it a day. You will make 20HP less at worst than a guy that spent $1200 more in parts alone just on the bottom end.
Starting a project with nothing only nets you something.
I did my homework for a while on the single cam then laid down till feeling went away.
torque @ stock on N/A 2.4 = 165
Torque on low boost 2.0 single cam 150-160?
/\ No brainer.
Swap to a 2.4 first then add a turbo bits and pieces at a time....no fabrication needed since srt4..........
But don't street race..!!??If the parts car is cleaner rust wise than your car, swap the inner dash panels (VIN) and use the parts car with your title.
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