03 r/t turbo thought good/bad idea

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Henry Boggs
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03 r/t turbo thought good/bad idea

Post by Henry Boggs » Fri Jan 17, 2014 10:13 pm

I have a 2003 r/t which is bone stock at this point and I was wondering what I might need to do to the engine for to handle the added stress of a turbo. :shock:

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INVUJerry
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Post by INVUJerry » Fri Jan 17, 2014 10:23 pm

Stock can handle a good amount of power, depending on the tune, 250HP is the general number people stick with. If you upgrade your rod bolts and have a great tune it could probably hold more.
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Henry Boggs
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Post by Henry Boggs » Sat Jan 18, 2014 9:25 am

250 is about what I was looking for. This will be my first time boosting a na car I have a mechanic who will help but he is no turbo specialist. I am a noob who needs help. what kit do I buy that will complement my car the best and what else do I need to have. I also want to keep the cost semi on the cheap. All your help is greatly appreciated.

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Post by occasional demons » Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:38 am

Search in this forum for tuning options. Getting it tuned properly is just as important as getting the pieces assembled correctly. Probably more important to a degree.

With something not assembled right, it may not hurt the engine...
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Post by Henry Boggs » Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:31 am

but shouldn't the tuning be based on what I have in the car for mods. I would like to start with some sort of turbo kit and then get it tuned based on what I am installing. I need a plan for what I'm putting in the car, so that everything will be copacetic. eg; parts that won't work with the turbo for whatever reason. I guess I just need a starting point.

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Post by esteinmaier » Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:18 pm

Get yourself a manifold and a turbo, and then piece together the rest. It will include some sort of electronic fuel management. (Fuel pressure won't work on your car.)
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Post by Henry Boggs » Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:09 pm

I have183 K on the ticker now. it is the original motor and tranny runs great because of this what I be wise to steer away from this idea. should I swap the motor for work with what I have and just replace gaskets and seals and whatnot or do I need to rebuild it. everything operates correctly on this car and I feel like it is a good base for what I want to do. yes I am a newbie and my question probably sounds stupid to some people but I am a carpenter and just the mechanicals on the learning curve. all of your help and su.ggestions is greatly appreciated

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Post by esteinmaier » Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:47 pm

If you keep the boost down and tune it nice and fat, you won't blow it up. Just don't get greedy on the boost, as the more boost you run, the more you have to do to keep it safe.
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:58 pm

You could look at it a couple of ways. With the mileage, it is probably getting tired, as long as oil consumption isn't horrible, it will be a good practice platform.

You could get another engine, and build it for the intended purpose, and drop it in when the current one no longer likes life.

You will then have some experience with w/e tuning platform you decide on. Best to learn as much about it as you can, so you are not 100% dependent on someone else's knowledge.

Not saying you need to be an expert, but folks aren't always available as they also have lives/issues. At least you will be able to do enough to get you, and your engine by until your person can recommend/perform the best solution for w/e issue you might encounter.

Building a replacement engine will give you options as to CR, which can have some benefits as far as tuning windows. The 9.8:1 the R/T has is in no way impossible to tune, but something below 9:1 will give more lee way.

If you do choose to build another engine, a higher mileage block is the better choice over all. A lot of heat cycles relieve any stresses in the casting. This is what old school folks are referring to when they say a well seasoned block. They usually hold machined tolerances better. Not that it is a huge issue on these, but it may be a small edge for durability.
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Post by Henry Boggs » Tue Jan 21, 2014 11:38 am

can I swap the turbo from my 98 talon(bad tranny) if I get a manifold for my neon
I'm just thinking I can save money by doing this so I can spend on other things
for the car. also does anybody know what might be compatible between the two engine setups in my 98 talon turbo front wheel drive version and my 2003 r/t since they're both 2.0 Chrysler motors I do know that the Talon is dohc the neon is sohc. I also thought about switching everything over to the Neon engine turbo and rebuilt tranny, will this work for without huge problems. thanx

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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jan 21, 2014 2:56 pm

The 420A heads have been swapped onto neons in boosted form.

There are some pics etc, but I don't recall ATM who it was. You just need to get a bit creative with the plumbing.

Maybe this might help, it's a start.

https://www.google.com/search?q=420A&rl ... +neons.org+
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Post by cogs1212 » Tue Jan 21, 2014 3:06 pm

I have turboed my na r/t and let me tell you its not a walk in the park. Def doable but if someone asked me if i would do it all again in my situation i would say HELL NO lol.

PM me if you have any questions.

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Post by Pimp_Daddy_Patty » Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:04 pm

I'm not sure about the ignition advance in an R/T, but I had no issue turbocharging my 04 (non R/T)
'04 SX 2.0T 5 speed
'98 2.4 3 speed 50 trim drag car 12.1 1/4 mile
'94 Ranger 4.0 swap 5 speed (tow vehicle)

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Post by NickKo » Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:19 pm

occasional demons wrote: Getting it tuned properly is just as important as getting the pieces assembled correctly.
Probably more important to a degree.
WAY True !! :thumbup:

esteinmaier wrote:If you keep the boost down and tune it nice and fat, you won't blow it up. Just don't get greedy on the boost, as the more boost you run, the more you have to do to keep it safe.
Just as Erik said.... The higher the boost, the greater the risk, and that makes proper tuning even more critical.
You could play it safe, and start out with PSI at relatively low levels, to ensure some level of reliability.


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-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
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-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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