cel came on after cai installed? ??

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deli racer
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cel came on after cai installed? ??

Post by deli racer » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:30 pm

Hey guys just got done installing a cai on my car I disconnected ground made sure everything was installed correctly had the ground off for 45min reconnected let run at idle for five min and went for a test run. Drove well for about five min then cel gave me a big :thefinger: can u guys give me some info?
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[DJ]Tomski
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Post by [DJ]Tomski » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:39 pm

What code are you getting?

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Post by He Hate Me » Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:40 pm

What code are you getting?

Go to your car and turn the key to the on position without starting than off, do it three times and it will tell you the codes than report back to us so we can help.
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Post by deli racer » Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:01 am

Found the culprit intake sensor was not seated all the way into the rubber bung trimmed the bung back disconnected hot n ground reconnected and took her for a run no cel good deal.
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Post by deli racer » Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:18 am

Quick question on the p.I.t.a uninstall of the old airbox and tubes. I have a 2000 se and my god that intake was a mess of plastic and crap. I removed basically all the crap in front of the inside fender well. I mocked up a trim piece and cut some rubber mat installed clips and made sure in rain I wouldn't get hydrolocked will this hamper any induction?
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Post by He Hate Me » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:22 am

No your not hindering the performance at all, the filter is still taking in cooler air cause it's not directly in the engine bay.
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:23 am

Rain and spray won't hydro your engine. It is when you immerse the opening (filter) in solid water, then you have problems. Stay clear of large puddles of unknown depth, and you will be fine. Sometimes it is unavoidable tho.

In a perfect world, you could kill the engine and coast through, but it rarely works out that way. The way I see it, if you hydro the engine, you are blocking traffic anyways. If you don't make it all the way through, you can always unhook the coupler at the TB and drive out. A bit of embarrassment is cheaper.
If the water is deeper than the TB, well you are calling a tow truck regardless. :lol:
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Post by deli racer » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:45 am

I've never had a hydro problem but then again I drive an f150 most of my other cars were good weather vehicles. I noticed after driving normally the car seemed to fun fine but when I trounced the gas the motor bogged then took off im replacing the stock exhaust with a full bbp same diameter but high flow cat and muffler will that help?
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:52 am

I really didn't see a big difference going from 2.00" to 2.25" mandrel bent/better muffler/no muffler.

Possibly it was hesitating before, you can just hear it now with the CAI.
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Post by deli racer » Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:14 pm

No hesitations before install car was running good even under my lead foot conditions after install think its just new and the ecm is adjusting. I took it out in the wee hour this morn and let's just say wendys dinner trays + ebrake = drift fun at kmart parking lot.
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Post by esteinmaier » Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:09 pm

Dinner trays = fun = expensive transmission replacement when the diff pin shoots out the side of the case.
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Post by deli racer » Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:43 pm

Yes but that's only if you hit ludicrous speed. Lol I know but the amusement is far too good. I was thinking about running royal purple or lucas oil in the tranny and engine good decision or no?
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Post by esteinmaier » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:05 pm

No, it has to do with the differential doing a higher percentage of the work without the ring gear moving fast enough to whip around the fluid in the trans so it can keep up with the heat being created.
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:16 pm

In other words, it can be the best lubricant in the universe, but if it isn't getting to the moving parts, it won't help you. :D
Edit:
With your 31th, synthetic will help, but an aux trans cooler may be a better choice with your driving habits. Being in northern PA, a Perma Cool thermostat for the aux cooler will help from it being too cold in the winter. Not getting warm enough is about as bad as too hot. It's just a slower death.

In addition to what Eric said, working the ATX like that, without enough wind in the radiator will overheat your ATX in a hurry. You may fry it, before the diff pin ejects. Spinning the wheels on ice/snow for more than a minute or two will also kill an ATX.
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Post by deli racer » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:52 pm

This car will not see snow for that and some othe facts like snow plus neon equals bad times lol I have a 4x4 for the winter. My choices in oil are just for oil and tranny change figured it would be a good thing to do.
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Post by Raiders Jerseys » Tue Jan 10, 2012 3:50 am

Good topic.


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Post by Raiders Jerseys » Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:24 am

Power is directly proportionate to the size of you wallet. Good sentence.




Then I swallow!

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Post by deli racer » Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:00 am

Thanks the truth is its the truth lol
Power is directly proportionate to the size of you wallet.

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