2GN.ORG

Hey just was wondering wat the fastest n/a 2.0 neon ppl on here have seen. I'm more curious about daily drivable ones. Just interested to see wat ppl have done

I daily drove my magnum powered 98 with a big crane cam for a while. It went 14.6's all motor. With more compression it'd have been faster.

I drove my NYG with the 12.5:1 with a crane 005 cam on the street for a while. It wasn't that bad but it took a little getting used to. It also liked race gas so it was a little expensive. I never got a solid pass out of it but it would have went 13's if it wasn't fucked up.

So is raising the compression one of the big things that make the car perform better n/a?

NGCnoproblem wrote:So is raising the compression one of the big things that make the car perform better n/a?

YES!

NGCnoproblem wrote:So is raising the compression one of the big things that make the car perform better n/a?

That's Performance 101.

Raising the compression ratio will always increase the power and responsivness of the engine. How much is a matter of the type of fuel you are interested in running, how tight of a tuning window you are comfortable with and if you are adding boost into the mix.

Higher compression and boost go together like peas in a pod, as long as you can keep it from detonating itself to little bits.

I always thought lower compression was better for turbo setups?

And how high compression can u go with 93 octane safely and without issues

In a normal street situation you are correct, because you have to accomodate the fuel that is available to you.

However, if you can run good stuff (115+ octane or methanol) higher compression is better, to a point of course. The biggest thing is keeping it all in one piece. If the engine components and fuel can handle the actual cylinder pressure the higher compression ratio the better. You also dramically shrink your tuning window so a higher compression boosted engine is not for the n00b.


It seems 10.5:1 or so is the safe higher compression to run on pump gas, but with careful tuning 12:1 should be doable. There are a number of OEM engines that are flirting with 13-14:1 and running on 87.

Anything other than raising compression or is that pretty much the key answer after head work and basic bolt ons go?

To really take full advantage of headwork you will want to bump up the compression ratio.

Hmmm interesting to. Higher octane burns at higher temps right? Which is y u need to run higher octane for higher compression turbo setups

Higher octane resists detonation (ie spontaneous like combustion), that is why you need it for high cylinder pressure situations, be it high compression n/a engines or high boost engines.

Higher octane burns slower, IDK about hotter. You may have higher overall temps, due to the duration of the burn being a little longer giving things a tad more heat soak.


But that slower burn time gives you more degrees of crank rotation to play with.

So much to learn! Lol

Read through my old log. Pretty sure I had the fastest NA DD.

Fastest (top speed), or quickest (elapsed time in a set distance), that is the question. Which one is it?

Yes, I am an ass.

guy, Ted, on MNneons...

UptownSport wrote:old quickest was 13.888, Now:
Bone yard trans (OBX sitting on bro's bench for no particular reason)
Boneyard head (angle milled Head sitting in my drawer for no particular reason)
E-85
less weigh 1960lbs w/o
MS
With muffler



My bro got 14.278 with cheaters, heavier than me and .3 slower 50'- One broke axle

Weird, so something locked up in trans- pulled right and wouldn't turn.
I literately couldn't turn onto pit road.
When backing, it popped, or if I tried to turn even the slightest.
It freed up and made it back to Mpls

Oh that's impressive . Does he have a project log?

He's from the org. It's also a 1GN.

you'd have to search the big org. most of his mods are wight reduction things. him and his brother are obsessed with it. his brother is making a geo metro alternator work on his car simply because it weighs 5 lbs less

It is certainly an interesting project and something I would like to do.

You can't argue with the price they have into it.

wow, sounds like they should just invest in carbon fiber lol.

Nah, I mean look... His car is already under 2,000 lbs. He has all sorts of delete things, no fan, no sound material, even left a bunch of hardware off that's "not needed"

So how do we go about getting this higher compression cheaply? Is there a way, or just the basic shaving the gasket, high comp pistons, etc?

Well, "cheaply" would be milling the head, but then you need to get an inexpensive adjustable cam gear(s) to bring the cam timing back in line. Or some decent used pistons, but then there are the related costs of doing that properly.


Really no cheap method, unless you take your chances with backyard rebuilds.

Or you could just super glue a bunch of pennies to each piston.

'Cheap' should not be your mind-set when going into a high-comp build. Or rather any build for that matter.


Fast, Cheap, Reliable. Pick two.

occasional demons wrote:Well, "cheaply" would be milling the head, but then you need to get an inexpensive adjustable cam gear(s) to bring the cam timing back in line. Or some decent used pistons, but then there are the related costs of doing that properly.


Really no cheap method, unless you take your chances with backyard rebuilds.

Or you could just super glue a bunch of pennies to each piston.

That's what I did on my 98, wish I had milled the head .040" instead of .030". Or swapping in a DOHC block raises the compression a good bit.

Still want to do a DOHC block with a mag head milled .030" with a big crame cam.

"Cheaply" is in my mind when I have an old Neon. I'm done spending gobs of money on this car, just looking for a few easy ways of keeping myself occupied.

That DOHC block looked interesting, but at that point I'd just swap the whole engine... with a V6. Aw hell, this old rat is still peppy enough for my daily 90mph commute anyway.

V6's will end up taking forever to swap and be slower than a high compression 2.0 or 2.4 dohc swap.

What V6 would you swap that would end up being 'cheap'???

wtf cares, something worthwhile. I would never go through the effort of swapping an engine just to have basically the same thing I started with. At the V6 point, it wouldn't be cheap anymore, but it wouldn't be Neon powered either. It would be something more...


ANYWAY, can we please not take this anymore off topic? Back to making N/A 2.0 power...