Next Spring, EJ and I are doing a slight performance rebuild on my '01 R/T's Magnum motor and I'm trying to figure out which pistons to use. I'm for sure going with Sealed Power pistons, but I don't know if I get the standard size or what? Here's the link of all the options to choose from: Click Me!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Edited link size: O.D.
Edited link syle: Dante
Which DOHC pistons to use in my '01 Magnum?
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Which DOHC pistons to use in my '01 Magnum?
-Brodie
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be
2002 Dodge Neon ACR - Needs LOTS of love, but I'm gonna slowly get her to where she deserves to be
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If you buy anything bigger than stock bore you drop the piston and block off at your machine shop. You ALWAYS bore the block to fit the pistons and ALWAYS have the pistons there at the time. With high miles on the block, the bores are most likely no longer straight and round even if they "appear" to be.
BoogerMan
'95 Ply NYG ACR sedan 12.31 @ 111 all motor 2.4 swap - puked
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'95 Ply NYG ACR sedan 12.31 @ 111 all motor 2.4 swap - puked
'95 Ply NYG Sport Coupe 2.4 SOHC. Yes, 2.4 single cam.
'01 ACR Stone White
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There is one benefit to a high mileage block tho: It is likely completely stress relieved. Or "Well Seasoned" as the old school racers called them. In short, it will hold it's bores straighter after it has been machined.
Not sure on our engines, but do they also require a honing plate when bored/honed? I know a lot of newer thin wall blocks do. Also anything that bolts to the block should be in place, and properly torqued.
Maybe overkill, but you want the stresses on the block when machined to be the same as they will be in use.
Your best bet, is to have the block inspected at a reputable machine shop, and go with what they recommend.
A few hundred more will be cheaper, less disappointing in the long run. (If you get a good machine shop. :/ )
Heck, even on a brand new block, the piston clearances should be checked for each bore. You never know which side of the tolerance each part is on. Never take for granted they are all exactly the same.
Not sure on our engines, but do they also require a honing plate when bored/honed? I know a lot of newer thin wall blocks do. Also anything that bolts to the block should be in place, and properly torqued.
Maybe overkill, but you want the stresses on the block when machined to be the same as they will be in use.
That ultimately depends on the actual measurements of the bores, if they are still good enough for a stock size. If they are too loose after honing, you are going to have piston slap. And possibly ring issues, if they are too far out of the ring lands. (snapped rings)supertrick_05 wrote:So if I get the stock size I should be good to go?
Your best bet, is to have the block inspected at a reputable machine shop, and go with what they recommend.
A few hundred more will be cheaper, less disappointing in the long run. (If you get a good machine shop. :/ )
Heck, even on a brand new block, the piston clearances should be checked for each bore. You never know which side of the tolerance each part is on. Never take for granted they are all exactly the same.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
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old post, but no. What Jeff was saying is the block most likely needs to be bored out since the cylinders are most likely out of round.supertrick_05 wrote:So if I get the stock size I should be good to go?
That said, you could pull a Chad, buy stock size, use a dingleberry hone on your 120k block while torn apart in your apartment parking lot and cross your fingers. Ended up working well for me.