mag intake manifold install question

kishon55 · Post by **kishon55** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 12:06 am

Ita thw little clip that holds the injector on to the rail the piece that clips to the injector and where the the injector goes into the rail like a little square c clip

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:50 am

Ah, well as long as the fuel rail is bolted down, nothing bad will happen. You would want to get a new one, or one from a JY to replace it - if it is not damaged. You can squeeze them back in shape if you are careful.

Those clips make it convenient, so all the injectors come out of the IM with the rail.

They only go on one way, as I'm sure you noticed. Also the injector must be in at the proper depth, so the slot lines up. Might be why it popped off. You want to install them all in the rail, then into the IM.

Also I hope you cleaned any debris from the injector bores, and put a light film of oil on the o rings when slipping the injectors back in. It keeps them from getting damaged, and creating a vacuum leak.

kishon55 · Post by **kishon55** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:27 am

I did clean the manifold from top to bottom.

im going to start it up. Here in a few and see what happens

Darkwing · Post by **Darkwing** » Thu Dec 13, 2012 5:50 pm

uhh wouldnt the RPM switch power on the MTV for an extended amount of time????

im just wondering because im also installing a mag head and waiting on a RPM window switch

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:14 pm

The window switch needs to power a relay, which in turn powers the mtv. Otherwise you will burn out your rpm switch instantly. The mtv will only be powered from 4900 to redline in the setup you are going to use, so yes, it will see power for any length of time you are over 4900, however, the relays purpose is to handle the electrical load of the mtv motor.

Darkwing · Post by **Darkwing** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:06 am

so putting a relay and powering it with a toggle is the same as a rpm switch .

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:01 am

The same, except the toggle switch is a manual system as opposed to the window switch which is a passive system.

Using a toggle switch to open the butterflies is a bad idea. You forget to open them which sucks, and you forget to close them which sucks worse.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 2:58 pm

You overheat the MTV motor coil, and fry it, you are SOL. Not sure what the duty cycle rating is for it, but being on for long periods of time was not in their planned designed use.

Mopar no longer sells the MTV motor. You would be at the mercy of what folks wish to sell them for. As they become more scarce, the price may be more than you are willing to pay. Of course when they were still sold by Mopar, the price was more than most were willing to pay.... Possibly why they are discontinued.

Darkwing · Post by **Darkwing** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 4:08 pm

but doesnt the RPM switch open the butterflies at highway RPM wouldnt that overheat the MTV motor?

mopar2 · Post by **mopar2** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:50 pm

What highway are you running down that your sitting at 4500 rpm?

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:23 pm

It would have to be 4900 RPM, and held at WOT in a stock set up for that to happen as factory equipped.

With just an RPM switch, yeah you could keep them open for a while. Especially if you are running in a lower gear. But you would really have to be going out of your way to keep it energized for a long enough period to do some damage.

Factory only designed it to work at WOT, and in the specified low and high RPM range, not just the specific RPM ranges. Unless you plan on going balls out for 20 minutes, it just won't happen with a factory stock set up.

orangeneon05 · Post by **orangeneon05** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 7:25 pm

1) http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... ?sku=35752

2) http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... u=11115612

will either of these work for the R/T IM bolted to a 2.0 sxt?

the studs you are speaking of are just to hold the IM up until you get the bolts put in, then you take the studs out and put bolts in their place?

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 3:55 pm

orangeneon05 wrote:1) http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... ?sku=35752

2) http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... u=11115612

will either of these work for the R/T IM bolted to a 2.0 sxt?

the studs you are speaking of are just to hold the IM up until you get the bolts put in, then you take the studs out and put bolts in their place?

As long as the thread pitch and length is correct, they'll work ( sorry, I don't know the thread sizes offhand.)

I have read that the 1st gen intake manifold bolts will work for the Magnum intake manifold - I think Bill can confirm this.

- Nick

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:18 pm

M6 x 1.00 is the correct size. M8 screws were used on the DOHC heads. I forget exactly what length I had figured for the IM to head screws. I think it was 25mm or 30. I just took the threaded length of the stock screws, and took the difference in IM flange thickness between them to get something with similar thread engagement.

I wish they stuck with the M8 size. The two studs the DOHC use are a couple of buck each I think. The studs were left in the head, and nuts used with them.

Just get two longer M6 screws, cut the heads off, and hacksaw a slot in the end. Hand thread them in, and install the gasket/IM, then get the other screws in, remove the guide studs with a screw driver if needed, and install the remaining two screws.

I never did install my Mag IM tho.

orangeneon05 · Post by **orangeneon05** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 3:10 pm

the two stud bolts go on the bottom corners when installing the IM correct?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:48 pm

Pretty sure, it seems to be the most logical spot.

orangeneon05 · Post by **orangeneon05** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:55 pm

PERFECT! thanks for the replies guys.