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racer12306
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Just thought I would share that I have found some "exotic" oils at reasonable prices.
Found a place that sells Quaker State and Pennzoil Platnum 5w40 for ~$5/qt.
I also found a place that sells Chevron Delo 5w40 and Mobil Delvac 1 for ~$5/qt. The only downside is I would need to buy in 6 gallon cases.
Found a place that sells Quaker State and Pennzoil Platnum 5w40 for ~$5/qt.
I also found a place that sells Chevron Delo 5w40 and Mobil Delvac 1 for ~$5/qt. The only downside is I would need to buy in 6 gallon cases.
-Frank
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- hansken_yo
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how are those considered exotic? I'm so confuzzzzzzzzed 

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- MyNeonSaysHi
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racer12306
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the only main difference between 5w40 and 0w40 is their cold flow abilities.
The Pennzoil Platnum and Quaker State 5w40's are damn near impossible to find at a normal retail location. I would be going to and oil distributor to get this.
The Delo 5w40 is also hard to find, and Delvac 1 is normally $30+/gallon
The Pennzoil Platnum and Quaker State 5w40's are damn near impossible to find at a normal retail location. I would be going to and oil distributor to get this.
The Delo 5w40 is also hard to find, and Delvac 1 is normally $30+/gallon
-Frank
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- MyNeonSaysHi
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Why?MoxHairR/T wrote:no, stay with 0w40!!!!!!!!
It sucks because they don't carry Mobil 1 0w-40 in the gallon jugs, so I have to buy them indivdually at $6.08 a quart!! $6.08 X 5 + $5.XX Wix filter = $40 oil change. When I can get a gallon of Mobil One 5w-30 for $25....
I see. So 0-40w is better for colder weather since its thicker?the only main difference between 5w40 and 0w40 is their cold flow abilities.
The Pennzoil Platnum and Quaker State 5w40's are damn near impossible to find at a normal retail location. I would be going to and oil distributor to get this.
08 Acura TL-S
05 Neon SRT-4
It is better than 5w-40 because at cold temperatures it has a lower viscosity meaning it flows/pours more easily. This allows for an easier start. Once both oils reach operating temperatures they will have the same flowing properties.MyNeonSaysHi wrote: I see. So 0-40w is better for colder weather since its thicker?
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racer12306
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The 5 and the 0 can not tell you the exact viscosity.
For example, 0w40 has a viscosity of 78cSt at 40*C, 5w20 has a viscosity of 48 cSt at 40*C.
So even though the 5w20 is thinner at 40*C, the 0w40 should have better startup protection because its 0w rated.
For example, 0w40 has a viscosity of 78cSt at 40*C, 5w20 has a viscosity of 48 cSt at 40*C.
So even though the 5w20 is thinner at 40*C, the 0w40 should have better startup protection because its 0w rated.
-Frank
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esteinmaier
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Wait a second. A gallon at $25 vs. a quart at $6.08? There are 4 quarts in a gallon. So it's cheaper by the quart.MyNeonSaysHi wrote:Why?
It sucks because they don't carry Mobil 1 0w-40 in the gallon jugs, so I have to buy them indivdually at $6.08 a quart!! $6.08 X 5 + $5.XX Wix filter = $40 oil change. When I can get a gallon of Mobil One 5w-30 for $25....
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racer12306
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He probably means a 5qt'r from walmart.
-Frank
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racer12306
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I should also say that if someone else is interested in getting these oils that they need to check the local oil distributors for pricing.
It will vary.
It will vary.
-Frank
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racer12306
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Don't know yet. I plan on doing an oil analysis after my current fill of Pennzoil Platnum 5w30, and then I'm leaning towards the Pennzoil Platnum 5w40 so it will be more of an apples to apples situation. At least it would be the same brand, and not a completely different formula.
After I do a fill of the 5w40, Ill get another oil analysis and compare them.
The people on BITOG are pretty knowledgable, and hopefully Terry Dyson will chime in as he is a renowned oil analyst.
After that I will probably switch it to a Heavy Duty Engine Oil (aka Diesel Oil) and run till 5000 miles and do another analysis. I'm suspecting that my final oil change interval will be about 7500 -10000 miles. I would probably play it safe and go with 7500.
After I do a fill of the 5w40, Ill get another oil analysis and compare them.
The people on BITOG are pretty knowledgable, and hopefully Terry Dyson will chime in as he is a renowned oil analyst.
After that I will probably switch it to a Heavy Duty Engine Oil (aka Diesel Oil) and run till 5000 miles and do another analysis. I'm suspecting that my final oil change interval will be about 7500 -10000 miles. I would probably play it safe and go with 7500.
-Frank
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- MyNeonSaysHi
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Nah that would be fine for your location. But 0w-40 might help out since you are located in the north..King Crab wrote:I have used 5w-30 since I got my baby new... Would it be better to run something else?
Yeah thats what I meant.He probably means a 5qt'r from walmart.
$15 extra an oil change isn't much. If you change your oil every 3 months to make up for the difference, eat at Mcdonalds 1 less time a month, Problem solved.
$15 in one sitting at Macky D's!? I hardly ever go there but when I do I just get two double cheeseburgers and a water. $2.14 = full. I know what you mean though. $15 isn't much. I will probably stick with 0w-40 then, because ever since I switched to it, my car seems to run a bit better and start nicely.
That Mobil 1 isn't a true synthetic right? If I am gonna be paying that much, might as well spend a bit more and use royal purple 0w-40?
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racer12306
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OK, heres the thing...
Anything that is labeled Full Synthetic in the store is a synthetic. I personally don't care if its a Group III, IV, or V.
Its arguable about which is better because Group III oils deliver outstanding UOA's (used oil analysis) and Group IV stuff does as well. People have been arguing about which is better, Group III or Group IV, since one blender started using a Group III formula.
IMO, if...
1. The car likes the oil, quiet, runs good, etc.
and
2. Wear numbers are low.
Then it doesn't matter. Either oil will protect your car well.
On the other hand, I understand what you are saying about paying more for a product that costs less to manufacture. Group III oils should be cheaper than Group IV oils.
Try the Royal Purple, it won't hurt the engine. And then whichever you think the engine likes better, continue to use that.
Anything that is labeled Full Synthetic in the store is a synthetic. I personally don't care if its a Group III, IV, or V.
Its arguable about which is better because Group III oils deliver outstanding UOA's (used oil analysis) and Group IV stuff does as well. People have been arguing about which is better, Group III or Group IV, since one blender started using a Group III formula.
IMO, if...
1. The car likes the oil, quiet, runs good, etc.
and
2. Wear numbers are low.
Then it doesn't matter. Either oil will protect your car well.
On the other hand, I understand what you are saying about paying more for a product that costs less to manufacture. Group III oils should be cheaper than Group IV oils.
Try the Royal Purple, it won't hurt the engine. And then whichever you think the engine likes better, continue to use that.
-Frank
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