Electrical Products

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Mon Dec 13, 2010 12:41 am

So I'm really considering developing some electronic products to sell to the automotive/neon community. So far these are what I'm looking at doing:

- 1gn/2gn Megasquirt II Units. I'm not sure if I'll be offering full sequential ignition/injection, but I'll have a few options available.
- Automotive power supplies. Not just a voltage regulator, but a device you can get reliable DC power with.
- High Power LED retrofits. This would probably happen next year. I've done a lot of research into High power (15-100W) led arrays at work. I think with the right R&D they could make some excellent headlamp solutions.

I'm really looking for suggestions on other products that the neon market would enjoy. I do have a 02 MTX though, so developing anything specific to an ATX might be out of the questions.
So what would you like to see?

Dylan-00Blue · Post by **Dylan-00Blue** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 11:37 am

you need to make plug and play led replacement switches for the window control and locks!!!!!

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 11:39 am

The LED headlamps would be interesting. Would they work well with stock headlamp lenses?

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 2:03 pm

I've never seen an LED bulb that would promote enough output to surpass a traditional retrofit. Not saying it's not possible, I've just never seen one put out enough to make people "see" better. As accents or DRLs they're amazing though. But with all of the heatsink involved putting them in our housings would be difficult.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 4:59 pm

Dylan-00Blue wrote:you need to make plug and play led replacement switches for the window control and locks!!!!!

easy. some guys do that.
a vendor in srtforums offers that.
i could do that for you...
i did that often before.

nothing more easy.
all needed is an extra set switches.
i install the LEDs to them, ship them to the buyer - and he sends me his switches after the swapping.
(just the double shipment quota could maybe put someone off. But that is cheaper than new switches...)

and it is up to 100% plug and play - depending on your harness.
(e.g. if you have no lights in the door lock switches)

viewtopic.php?t=25254

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 4:11 am

LED lights are around for the purpose of lighting up the road, but they are by no means cheap. These run from $235 for a 4" light bar to $1,600 for a 50" light bar.

neonpla · Post by **neonpla** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 7:27 am

Chad showed me a 100w led a couple weeks ago, it was intense! I think it can be done.

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 6:45 pm

It can be done, but how inexpensive for "everyone" to be able to afford it?

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 2:24 pm

Thanks for the input everyone. I thought this thread went below the radar for a moment.

I was considering doing the door switches too. It'd be pretty easy for me to do, I'd just need to get a small stock of them first. Soldering those 3mm leds in can be a little difficult for some people; I imagine they'd pay to have it done.

Crystalmarie hit the nail on the head with the LED retrofits though. The biggest obstacle to overcome is the proper heatsinking. It would probably go into a projector housing to direct the light properly. There are some pretty bright single LEDs out there now such as P7 and Cree XPG, but I would probably be using a high power LED array like I showed Luis. Essentially, its 50leds in one die. I've been playing around with some in the 1000-9000lm range. That 100W one would definitely be overkill lol.

I've been driving a 30W array at about 40W for 6 months constantly now. I'm using it in a fiber optic lighting application, outputting about 2400lm. This is a really bad picture of it in action.

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 8:36 am

The heatsinking is what prompted me not to use the actual Audi LEDs in my setup but rather to use superfluxes instead which still run hot, but not nearly as much as the Phillips ones.