EBC Yellowstuff
EBC Yellowstuff
So I have installed EBC Yellowstuff brake pads front and rear about a week ago along with new rotors. They have about 250 miles of easy driving on them till this morning when I 'burned them in'. I needed new brakes and I was curious about these brakes, I really haven't read about anyone here running these so what the hell , I'll try them out, what could happen?
The fronts came with EBC's proprietary 'brake in coating' and shims, the rears didn't have this coating or shims. The literature that came in each box of pads was a little different. In the box with the the rears pads, one of the bits of paper in there said 'not for highway use'. We shall see.
How do they feel so far? Well at first they seemed a little more grippy than the stock pads, this can be attributed to the brake in coating according to the instructions. By grippy I mean that for the amount of pedal pressure I was applying, the car was slowing down as if I was pushing the pedal harder. They work fine when cold so far, about like the original pads, and they weren't bad. Usually these types of pads need some heat for best results. This morning after a little more than 200 miles of easy braking I did the recommended bedding in procedure.
The bedding procedure calls for hard braking 60-20 mph 5 times in a row without letting the brakes cool. I did this and I noticed that on about the fourth stomp of the brakes they seemed to grip even harder, you don't want to activate the ABS, but it feels like I could with lot less pedal pressure than before. The pedal feels harder and very slightly higher than before. Not bad. It was dark out but I'm sure I smoked them a little because I caught that smell. After the bedding in I continued on my way to work letting the brakes cool. When I got to work I looked at the rotors to see if I could see the supposed coating of materiel that transfers to the rotor from the pads. I don't know, the rotors look the same to me except for a slight color change from the heating they got this morning. There's a slight blue tinge on the outer edge of the front rotors now, the rears, not much difference.
Here's what I'm expecting as the mileage builds: Brake dust. The trip to work and back this morning, including the burn in, and there was a not really noticeable layer of dust on the front wheels, wipe the wheels with a damp rag and yes, you definitely get more dust than the original pads.
Rotor wear: EBC says these are track pads that can be used on the street. Track pads I've seen usually are tough on rotors. If I didn't get that coating of brake material to transfer during bed in I'm not sure how the rotors will last, I hope I did this ok, the only pads I've ever used are what you can get in your local auto parts store.
Noise: These aren't really meant to be pads for a grocery getter IMO, as such I won't be surprised if I get some squealing. So far though they're a silent as stock.
What's next: I had wanted to rebuild the calipers and flush the brakes but when I went to pick up the rotors, caliper seal kits, caliper hardware, brake grease, brakeclean etc, the counter guy said they don't sell kits because everyone just installs loaded calipers now a days and the kits cost as much as rebuilt calipers. What horseshit, they want $40 a caliper with the core. I ordered this stuff online before I went pick them up, and the kits, which they showed as in stock, were like $4 each. Why pay $40 a caliper when you can rebuild all 4 calipers yourself in about an hour? The only time I'd consider one of these rebuilts are if mine were badly corroded. I'm waiting on a new Motive pressure bleeder that I snagged on E bay for $11. When it shows up I'll flush the system, I think I'll pass on the caliper rebuilds for now since I don't have the kits and I'm lazy..
As the brakes get more mileage, I'll report anything that happens with them here. BTW, the rotors I got were were Raybestos brand the next step up from the cheapest. They're supposed to have a smoother finish than the cheapies and better cooling vanes or something. The fronts were made in Canada and the rears in China. I don't think those slotted and drilled rotors that you see are any better than the regular type and they cost more. More for show than anything IMO.
The front, EBC DP41623R:
The rear, EBC DP41066R:
The fronts came with EBC's proprietary 'brake in coating' and shims, the rears didn't have this coating or shims. The literature that came in each box of pads was a little different. In the box with the the rears pads, one of the bits of paper in there said 'not for highway use'. We shall see.
How do they feel so far? Well at first they seemed a little more grippy than the stock pads, this can be attributed to the brake in coating according to the instructions. By grippy I mean that for the amount of pedal pressure I was applying, the car was slowing down as if I was pushing the pedal harder. They work fine when cold so far, about like the original pads, and they weren't bad. Usually these types of pads need some heat for best results. This morning after a little more than 200 miles of easy braking I did the recommended bedding in procedure.
The bedding procedure calls for hard braking 60-20 mph 5 times in a row without letting the brakes cool. I did this and I noticed that on about the fourth stomp of the brakes they seemed to grip even harder, you don't want to activate the ABS, but it feels like I could with lot less pedal pressure than before. The pedal feels harder and very slightly higher than before. Not bad. It was dark out but I'm sure I smoked them a little because I caught that smell. After the bedding in I continued on my way to work letting the brakes cool. When I got to work I looked at the rotors to see if I could see the supposed coating of materiel that transfers to the rotor from the pads. I don't know, the rotors look the same to me except for a slight color change from the heating they got this morning. There's a slight blue tinge on the outer edge of the front rotors now, the rears, not much difference.
Here's what I'm expecting as the mileage builds: Brake dust. The trip to work and back this morning, including the burn in, and there was a not really noticeable layer of dust on the front wheels, wipe the wheels with a damp rag and yes, you definitely get more dust than the original pads.
Rotor wear: EBC says these are track pads that can be used on the street. Track pads I've seen usually are tough on rotors. If I didn't get that coating of brake material to transfer during bed in I'm not sure how the rotors will last, I hope I did this ok, the only pads I've ever used are what you can get in your local auto parts store.
Noise: These aren't really meant to be pads for a grocery getter IMO, as such I won't be surprised if I get some squealing. So far though they're a silent as stock.
What's next: I had wanted to rebuild the calipers and flush the brakes but when I went to pick up the rotors, caliper seal kits, caliper hardware, brake grease, brakeclean etc, the counter guy said they don't sell kits because everyone just installs loaded calipers now a days and the kits cost as much as rebuilt calipers. What horseshit, they want $40 a caliper with the core. I ordered this stuff online before I went pick them up, and the kits, which they showed as in stock, were like $4 each. Why pay $40 a caliper when you can rebuild all 4 calipers yourself in about an hour? The only time I'd consider one of these rebuilts are if mine were badly corroded. I'm waiting on a new Motive pressure bleeder that I snagged on E bay for $11. When it shows up I'll flush the system, I think I'll pass on the caliper rebuilds for now since I don't have the kits and I'm lazy..
As the brakes get more mileage, I'll report anything that happens with them here. BTW, the rotors I got were were Raybestos brand the next step up from the cheapest. They're supposed to have a smoother finish than the cheapies and better cooling vanes or something. The fronts were made in Canada and the rears in China. I don't think those slotted and drilled rotors that you see are any better than the regular type and they cost more. More for show than anything IMO.
The front, EBC DP41623R:
The rear, EBC DP41066R:
- bone-yard-racing
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People just don't rebuild stuff like they used to. Calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, etc, etc.
-Frank
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So the Motive Products power brake bleeder came in the mail today. Hooked it up and ran 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system in no time flat. Everyone who does their own brakes needs one of these.
bone-yard-racing, 4-5 sets of rotors? wow, I was hoping for more like 1 set of rotors to one set of pads. The subie guys use these pads and for them these pads are easy on rotors, I suppose it depends how you use them. You'll see updates here on how the rotors work with these pads on the street, if you're right you'll see posts sooner than I'd like.
Yeah, I used to work in a shop in the days before loaded calipers and we used to rebuild these things all the time.racer12306 wrote:People just don't rebuild stuff like they used to. Calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, etc, etc.
bone-yard-racing, 4-5 sets of rotors? wow, I was hoping for more like 1 set of rotors to one set of pads. The subie guys use these pads and for them these pads are easy on rotors, I suppose it depends how you use them. You'll see updates here on how the rotors work with these pads on the street, if you're right you'll see posts sooner than I'd like.
- BlackRoseRacing
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I don't feel so bad about getting the Greenstuff now!04R/T wrote: They generate lots of dust but that was expected.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
If you plan on getting the matching EBC rotors don't my friends has gone through 2 sets under warrenty as there cranking in the vanes. After the second set he switched to bear. That was on a subie. Not bashing there pads though there a great product.BlackRoseRacing wrote:I'm glad to see this, since I have been deciding on either Hawk or EBC.....
FAC3L3SS wrote:Epic. Ricer sees. Ricer wants. Ricer buys.
- BlackRoseRacing
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An update on these pads.
The car has 178k+ miles on it now and the pads have been on for about 36k miles. No problems, they don't squeak or do anything abnormal, they still work just like the stock pads until you heat them. When you do build some heat into them, same great performance as I wrote about in my first review. There was a prediction in this thread that they would eat rotors like no tomorrow, this has not happened, the rotors that I installed with these pads are still in use and show no signs of abnormal wear. They still generate more dust than regular pads, but there seems to be less dust now than they generated in the first months of them being installed. , the pads work the way they were designed to.
So would I use them again? No I would not. These pads are best for someone who takes their car to a track, I don't. So while they do still work the way EBC intended, for my street only car they won't work to their full potential. The reason is simple, I don't use the brakes enough to keep the temps up. When the pads cool down they operate like the stock brakes. Might as well use the normal consumer grade pads, save some money and not have to deal with brake dusted wheels.
All in all these pads are a great product for those who use their cars on a race track or at some other competition at least once in a while.
The car has 178k+ miles on it now and the pads have been on for about 36k miles. No problems, they don't squeak or do anything abnormal, they still work just like the stock pads until you heat them. When you do build some heat into them, same great performance as I wrote about in my first review. There was a prediction in this thread that they would eat rotors like no tomorrow, this has not happened, the rotors that I installed with these pads are still in use and show no signs of abnormal wear. They still generate more dust than regular pads, but there seems to be less dust now than they generated in the first months of them being installed. , the pads work the way they were designed to.
So would I use them again? No I would not. These pads are best for someone who takes their car to a track, I don't. So while they do still work the way EBC intended, for my street only car they won't work to their full potential. The reason is simple, I don't use the brakes enough to keep the temps up. When the pads cool down they operate like the stock brakes. Might as well use the normal consumer grade pads, save some money and not have to deal with brake dusted wheels.
All in all these pads are a great product for those who use their cars on a race track or at some other competition at least once in a while.
Last update on these pads. I removed them last week with the odo showing 213k miles, they had 71k miles on them. They have a little less than half of the friction material remaining. Bone-yard-racing posted opinion above that these pads would go through 4-5 sets of rotors, this was not the case, The same rotors that went on with the pads were removed with them and they're fine. They are showing signs of wear but nothing alarming. The rate of wear on the rotors looks like they would be done at the same time the pads were. So for me any way these pads will wear out one set of rotors over their useful life.bone-yard-racing wrote:You will probably get 4-5 sets of rotors from that set of pads. RacingBrake cintered iron rotors will hold up better.
Reason for removal was brake dust. Dirty wheels all the time gets old and I just put new wheels on so I've had enough.
In summary: Great pads for a street /track car. But not really the pads you want for a grocery getter. Brake dust>>
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Might just do that. The replacement pads are no where near as good as the yellow pads even when they were cold. I have to use quite a bit more pedal presure to get the same deceleration rate as before. I like having the pads bite hard. With the yellow stuff when hot it was easy to get the abs to kick in with out much effort, also the pedal was nice and firm at the same time.Jerome Adams wrote:U gonna try the red stuff? Minimal dust and better bite than stock when cold.