EBC Yellowstuff

Did you buy a part and think it was awesome, or did you think it was a piece of crap? Let everyone know here so we know not to buy the same product.
Post Reply
04R/T
2GN Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:50 am
Location: 50th state

EBC Yellowstuff

Post by 04R/T » Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:46 am

So I have installed EBC Yellowstuff brake pads front and rear about a week ago along with new rotors. They have about 250 miles of easy driving on them till this morning when I 'burned them in'. I needed new brakes and I was curious about these brakes, I really haven't read about anyone here running these so what the hell , I'll try them out, what could happen?

The fronts came with EBC's proprietary 'brake in coating' and shims, the rears didn't have this coating or shims. The literature that came in each box of pads was a little different. In the box with the the rears pads, one of the bits of paper in there said 'not for highway use'. We shall see.

How do they feel so far? Well at first they seemed a little more grippy than the stock pads, this can be attributed to the brake in coating according to the instructions. By grippy I mean that for the amount of pedal pressure I was applying, the car was slowing down as if I was pushing the pedal harder. They work fine when cold so far, about like the original pads, and they weren't bad. Usually these types of pads need some heat for best results. This morning after a little more than 200 miles of easy braking I did the recommended bedding in procedure.

The bedding procedure calls for hard braking 60-20 mph 5 times in a row without letting the brakes cool. I did this and I noticed that on about the fourth stomp of the brakes they seemed to grip even harder, you don't want to activate the ABS, but it feels like I could with lot less pedal pressure than before. The pedal feels harder and very slightly higher than before. Not bad. It was dark out but I'm sure I smoked them a little because I caught that smell. After the bedding in I continued on my way to work letting the brakes cool. When I got to work I looked at the rotors to see if I could see the supposed coating of materiel that transfers to the rotor from the pads. I don't know, the rotors look the same to me except for a slight color change from the heating they got this morning. There's a slight blue tinge on the outer edge of the front rotors now, the rears, not much difference.

Here's what I'm expecting as the mileage builds: Brake dust. The trip to work and back this morning, including the burn in, and there was a not really noticeable layer of dust on the front wheels, wipe the wheels with a damp rag and yes, you definitely get more dust than the original pads.

Rotor wear: EBC says these are track pads that can be used on the street. Track pads I've seen usually are tough on rotors. If I didn't get that coating of brake material to transfer during bed in I'm not sure how the rotors will last, I hope I did this ok, the only pads I've ever used are what you can get in your local auto parts store.

Noise: These aren't really meant to be pads for a grocery getter IMO, as such I won't be surprised if I get some squealing. So far though they're a silent as stock.

What's next: I had wanted to rebuild the calipers and flush the brakes but when I went to pick up the rotors, caliper seal kits, caliper hardware, brake grease, brakeclean etc, the counter guy said they don't sell kits because everyone just installs loaded calipers now a days and the kits cost as much as rebuilt calipers. What horseshit, they want $40 a caliper with the core. I ordered this stuff online before I went pick them up, and the kits, which they showed as in stock, were like $4 each. Why pay $40 a caliper when you can rebuild all 4 calipers yourself in about an hour? The only time I'd consider one of these rebuilts are if mine were badly corroded. I'm waiting on a new Motive pressure bleeder that I snagged on E bay for $11. :thumbup: When it shows up I'll flush the system, I think I'll pass on the caliper rebuilds for now since I don't have the kits and I'm lazy..

As the brakes get more mileage, I'll report anything that happens with them here. BTW, the rotors I got were were Raybestos brand the next step up from the cheapest. They're supposed to have a smoother finish than the cheapies and better cooling vanes or something. The fronts were made in Canada and the rears in China. I don't think those slotted and drilled rotors that you see are any better than the regular type and they cost more. More for show than anything IMO.

The front, EBC DP41623R:

Image

The rear, EBC DP41066R:

Image

User avatar
bone-yard-racing
2GN Member
Posts: 2328
Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:36 pm
Location: York PA
Contact:

Post by bone-yard-racing » Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:54 am

You will probably get 4-5 sets of rotors from that set of pads. RacingBrake cintered iron rotors will hold up better.
Image

racer12306
Junior Admin
Posts: 16126
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 8:53 pm
Location: Baltimore, MD
Contact:

Post by racer12306 » Thu Oct 01, 2009 3:39 pm

People just don't rebuild stuff like they used to. Calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, etc, etc.
-Frank
Member of Spork Racing
Forum issues: racer12306@2gn.org
Forum Behavior
Support your favorite forum, DONATE!

04R/T
2GN Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:50 am
Location: 50th state

Post by 04R/T » Sat Oct 03, 2009 1:27 am

So the Motive Products power brake bleeder came in the mail today. Hooked it up and ran 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system in no time flat. Everyone who does their own brakes needs one of these.
racer12306 wrote:People just don't rebuild stuff like they used to. Calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, etc, etc.
Yeah, I used to work in a shop in the days before loaded calipers and we used to rebuild these things all the time.

bone-yard-racing, 4-5 sets of rotors? wow, I was hoping for more like 1 set of rotors to one set of pads. The subie guys use these pads and for them these pads are easy on rotors, I suppose it depends how you use them. You'll see updates here on how the rotors work with these pads on the street, if you're right you'll see posts sooner than I'd like. :)

04R/T
2GN Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:50 am
Location: 50th state

Post by 04R/T » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:46 am

About 2k miles on these pads and so far so good. They work about the same as stock when they're cold, heat them up a little and they bite great. They've been quiet, no squeaks or noise yet. They generate lots of dust but that was expected.

User avatar
BlackRoseRacing
2009 Platinum Contributor
Posts: 12737
Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am

Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Oct 22, 2009 8:35 pm

I'm glad to see this, since I have been deciding on either Hawk or EBC.....

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 20306
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:46 pm

04R/T wrote: They generate lots of dust but that was expected.
:lol: I don't feel so bad about getting the Greenstuff now!
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

1972demon
2GN Member
Posts: 1703
Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:42 pm
Location: niagara falls, ontario

Post by 1972demon » Fri Oct 23, 2009 9:28 am

BlackRoseRacing wrote:I'm glad to see this, since I have been deciding on either Hawk or EBC.....
If you plan on getting the matching EBC rotors don't my friends has gone through 2 sets under warrenty as there cranking in the vanes. After the second set he switched to bear. That was on a subie. Not bashing there pads though there a great product.
FAC3L3SS wrote:Epic. Ricer sees. Ricer wants. Ricer buys.
Image

User avatar
BlackRoseRacing
2009 Platinum Contributor
Posts: 12737
Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am

Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sun Oct 25, 2009 9:31 am

I've got the "Red stuff" coming...as for rotors, I'll post that later....

04R/T
2GN Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:50 am
Location: 50th state

Post by 04R/T » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:38 am

An update on these pads.

The car has 178k+ miles on it now and the pads have been on for about 36k miles. No problems, they don't squeak or do anything abnormal, they still work just like the stock pads until you heat them. When you do build some heat into them, same great performance as I wrote about in my first review. There was a prediction in this thread that they would eat rotors like no tomorrow, this has not happened, the rotors that I installed with these pads are still in use and show no signs of abnormal wear. They still generate more dust than regular pads, but there seems to be less dust now than they generated in the first months of them being installed. , the pads work the way they were designed to.

So would I use them again? No I would not. These pads are best for someone who takes their car to a track, I don't. So while they do still work the way EBC intended, for my street only car they won't work to their full potential. The reason is simple, I don't use the brakes enough to keep the temps up. When the pads cool down they operate like the stock brakes. Might as well use the normal consumer grade pads, save some money and not have to deal with brake dusted wheels.

All in all these pads are a great product for those who use their cars on a race track or at some other competition at least once in a while.

04R/T
2GN Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:50 am
Location: 50th state

Post by 04R/T » Sat Sep 22, 2012 5:00 am

bone-yard-racing wrote:You will probably get 4-5 sets of rotors from that set of pads. RacingBrake cintered iron rotors will hold up better.
Last update on these pads. I removed them last week with the odo showing 213k miles, they had 71k miles on them. They have a little less than half of the friction material remaining. Bone-yard-racing posted opinion above that these pads would go through 4-5 sets of rotors, this was not the case, The same rotors that went on with the pads were removed with them and they're fine. They are showing signs of wear but nothing alarming. The rate of wear on the rotors looks like they would be done at the same time the pads were. So for me any way these pads will wear out one set of rotors over their useful life.

Reason for removal was brake dust. Dirty wheels all the time gets old and I just put new wheels on so I've had enough.


In summary: Great pads for a street /track car. But not really the pads you want for a grocery getter. Brake dust>> :tongue2:

titansxt
2GN Member
Posts: 2848
Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 11:24 am
Location: IL

Post by titansxt » Sat Sep 22, 2012 9:04 pm

Thanks for keeping us updated all this time.
Image
2003 SXT
2005 SRT-4
2gn.org member #26 :tard:
Lemon Neon member #1.
Any or all of the above statement(s) may be entirely fictional and a fabrication. :lol:
ram50rocket wrote: I must had been mistaken in thinking that NEONS.ORG was just for neons.

Jerome Adams
2GN Member
Posts: 1038
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 6:07 pm
Location: Bellevue, NE

Post by Jerome Adams » Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:25 pm

U gonna try the red stuff? Minimal dust and better bite than stock when cold.
Jerome

'03 SXT...DODGE NEON CONES

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #067

04R/T
2GN Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:50 am
Location: 50th state

Post by 04R/T » Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:35 am

Jerome Adams wrote:U gonna try the red stuff? Minimal dust and better bite than stock when cold.
Might just do that. The replacement pads are no where near as good as the yellow pads even when they were cold. I have to use quite a bit more pedal presure to get the same deceleration rate as before. I like having the pads bite hard. With the yellow stuff when hot it was easy to get the abs to kick in with out much effort, also the pedal was nice and firm at the same time.

Post Reply

Return to “Parts/Product Reviews”