EBAY underdrive pulley review

Did you buy a part and think it was awesome, or did you think it was a piece of crap? Let everyone know here so we know not to buy the same product.
lilolneon
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Post by lilolneon » Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:52 pm

i installed mine the otherday and already drove 200 miles on a roudn trip to east texas and back. through the hot sun and humid rain on the way back. didnt have one problem, no vibrations or shaking either, i was only doin 70 the whole time tho too.

after the install when nit had cooled and the belts were on, i turned the car on, first thing i noticed was the idle felt alot smoother. i popped the hood and took a gander down as it was spinning, i would have never seen that it was spinning had it not been for writing on the belts spinning aroudn on it.

my pulley is an OBX off ebay too
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Adionik
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Post by Adionik » Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:40 am

I got my Megan Racing UDP installed today. I was going to pay a mechanic $45 to do it but I ended up doing it myself for $0!!!

So four tacos and 4 hours later I had it installed. It was a pain in the ass because I went through 2 pulleys and had to fabricate my own insert for the pulley to push off of.

In the end it was deffinetely worth it. The car feels stronger...and lighter in a sense. Whoever mentioned the 2600+RPM thing was dead on, it takes off in a smoother band than before.

RPMs are smoother...but other than that I didn't notice much. I hope to get my idle up to avoid problems, get an optima and try out the AC tomorrow...
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
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anomalous0
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Post by anomalous0 » Thu Apr 17, 2008 3:13 am

Heck of a time finding the belt. Only place I've found it is napa and it costs about $20
Last edited by anomalous0 on Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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jshillin
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Post by jshillin » Fri May 09, 2008 6:59 am

I've had one of these laying in my closet for a year & a half, I think I'm gonna finally get around to installing it in the next couple weeks. Just checking to make sure that these belts are still working for everyone.

5040320
5040500

I've installed atleast a dozen of these on 1st gens so the install should be an issue...
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Adionik
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Post by Adionik » Fri May 09, 2008 1:52 pm

My AC sucks now...gotta have it on the 4th setting to really cool off. I used to have to alternate between 1 and turning it off before! But atleast now the car is a bit more driveable with the AC on
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
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tommigun
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Post by tommigun » Fri Jun 27, 2008 3:28 pm

I also joined the ebay-udp band wagon. So far I've got about 100 miles with it on. I've noticed that the engine runs a lot smoother and seems a little rev-happier on 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. Also, the A/C doesn't seem to take as much power from the engine yet still blows cool air. Pretty impressive for $40 + shipping. Since I changed the timing belt at the same time I haven't really tested if there's any improvement, but I still give the piece a :thumbup:

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Post by Backman4sakn » Sun Jul 27, 2008 6:51 pm

Adding to this never ending post. I just got a p0300 with my UDP and the CEL blinked and stayed on after I took it to 5500 for 3 gears. It kind of freaked me out at first, but I never lost any power and you can hear misfires if you listen carefully enough (which I didn't hear at all), so yeah, damn 02's!

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Post by gilly02le » Fri Jan 30, 2009 2:33 pm

the car doesn't actually misfire because of the cel. It Thinks its misfiring because of the extra harmonics due to the solid pulley. Never had mine misfire, just blinks like after 5500.
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NYMets1990
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Post by NYMets1990 » Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:12 pm

So the installation process would be:

1. Get under the car, remove splash shield, belts, etc
2. Use a harmonic balancer remover to take the old pulley off
3. Heat the new pulley so it expands then slide it on, bolt it on
4. Install the belts

Anyone know if the HB remover is loanable from an auto parts store?
Still can't believe I drive a 2.0...

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:29 pm

AutoZone. But depending on which kit yours has, you may need to use a 1/4" socket extension about 4 to 5 inches long to pull it.
IIRC Adionik had a post with one pictured that had the proper extensions. The one I rented didn't.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
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blueneo03
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Post by blueneo03 » Sat Mar 21, 2009 9:17 pm

i have one on my neon. it works fine.. the belts squeel when the motor is starting cold.. but other than that no problems with itfor sure feel the power gains off the line and all. id give recomendations in my experience.
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Post by danman132x » Sun Apr 05, 2009 10:27 pm

I ordered one of Ebay myself over the weekend, waiting for it to arrive now. I'm so exited, I can't wait. For 36 dollars, to my doorstep, this is a steal. I'm loving all the reviews I'm reading so far, and it really helped me make up my mind on buying one. I would like to know if these two belts are still good for it

5040320
5040500

I heard to maybe get a 490, but it may be too small.
EDIT:

I'm also getting the Lorenzo Alt. ODP. So the 490 should work then right?
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Apr 05, 2009 10:42 pm

I'll warn you now, it will say 95-99 neon on the box.












But it is the right one on the inside. :roll:

Those will be the belts I'm going to pick up. This is a good excuse to replace my 136,000 mile belts.
(Like I really needed to wait for a UDP.) Meh, for what the belts cost, it payed for the UDP.

Edit: I'm holding off on the ODP for now, but you may need to contact Lorenzo, or hope someone chimes in. I wondered that myself.

There is always the string method to get the length, but you will need someone to hold the tensioner at the optimum tension mark to measure.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Apr 26, 2009 4:08 pm

Installed mine yesterday. I removed the hub from the pully, put in oven @475º F. That is not near hot enough. So I just used my installer to install.

Image

Image

It seemed alot tighter than the oem pulley.

I really can't tell much difference in accceleration or anything else for that matter, other than the flashing CEL when pushing the RPM's. Possibly the 60mm TB, and the ghetto IM mask what extra power is freed up.


Edit: Duralast (Autozone)belt PN#'s are: 500K4 and 320K4 So just take the last three digits of the belt you need, and add K4 to the end. If you have the 5 rib PS / A/C setup, just add K5.
Last edited by occasional demons on Mon Aug 24, 2009 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri May 08, 2009 7:25 pm

Well the knock sensor has nothing to do with it. I discovered that the connector had fallen off. I must not have gotten it all the way on the last time I installed the IM. I had some wicked low RPM spark knock, which promted me to check the connection. Needless to say the CEL was flashing/solid P0300 with the connector dangling. I find it amazing there is no code for a knock sensor failure. I guess a blown engine does not affect emmissions, so it is not that important.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Sun May 31, 2009 9:45 pm

I too have the dreaded P300 :aargh: Time for more digging.

*Edit* This isn't good
Note: Anything that affects the speed of the crankshaft can cause a misfire
DTC.

The following are other possible causes for mis-fire:
Injector harness connectors, secondary ignition problem, mechanical engine problem,
PCM power grounds, irregular cam and crank signal, plugged injectors, restricted
exhaust, intake restriction, damaged trigger wheel, contaminated fuel, or vacuum
leak.
Weak valve springs, carbon deposits on valves, or accessory drive belt (serpentine
belt).
Which is interesting. Apparently the slight variation in Cam and Crank reference signals from factory is what makes the P300 pop. So how does one go about fooling the PCM to think that everything is fine?
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:45 am

I have worked out a "solution" but it is too much of a PITA to be practical. Perhaps when I get more time I will continue with another avenue of turning off the misfire monitor. I really want to make it work with an RPM switch, so it isn't off all the time.

Like my "solution" is. For $1 and some wire splicing it does work tho. :twisted:

Of course there's always stand alone, like MS.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:23 pm

What? Wire splicing? Ummm...nah, that's too much for me. :rofl:

I figured it would be something wired in to fool the computer to think the crank and cam are in sync. And while MS would be a great solution, I'm wondering about the Diablosport tuner...
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:06 pm

If I get it to work with what I have in mind, I'll do a How to. :D
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:46 am

AF/X pcm fixed my misfire problem :twisted:

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:48 pm

Sooo...tempting....


Bah, I'm poor!
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by anomalous0 » Tue Jul 28, 2009 1:10 am

Just wanted to share some experiences I've had with these since I've purchased 4 of these (for various reasons that will be explained later. Whatever you do, DO NOT get the silver colored one. Apparently all of the silver colored pulleys have an extra groove on the accessory belt pulley, which gives the belt ample opportunity to slip off. How do I know this? In the pictures on ebay, you can even see the extra groove on the silver pulleys.

So the story.....the first pulley I screwed up the install on, the second pulley is the one I'm using now (silver with an extra groove), the third pulley is another silver one that I had to send back because it too had an extra groove, and the fourth is the blue one with the right number of grooves that just arrived in the mail
"If you haven't bled on it, it's not your car"

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:42 am

Hmm, mine has the extra groove, and the belts have not given me issues. I do bounce it off the rev limiter occasionally, too. They are just cheap Duralast belts also.
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:02 pm

back from the dead....
I'll be posting the install instructions shortly since I picked up another one of these pulleys for my current build...

FAC3L3SS
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Post by FAC3L3SS » Thu Apr 22, 2010 10:46 pm

Please do! Also, I've got TWO sets of belt numbers to get. Which should I ACTUALLY go with? Danman? Chris? Anyone? I still have AC and PS.
el. oh. el.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:20 pm

danman132x wrote:Goodyear Gatorback belts
4040305 or 4040310 alternator belt
4040500 PS/AC belt
viewtopic.php?t=41126
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

FAC3L3SS
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Post by FAC3L3SS » Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:22 pm

Lol well, I was referring to the Duralast belts. For some reason, the numbers Tam saved and bought were 335k4 and 515k4. These seem off compared to all the ones in here.
el. oh. el.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:28 pm

occasional demons wrote: Edit: Duralast (Autozone)belt PN#'s are: 500K4 and 320K4 So just take the last three digits of the belt you need, and add K4 to the end. If you have the 5 rib PS / A/C setup, just add K5.
viewtopic.php?t=6074&start=90
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

FAC3L3SS
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Post by FAC3L3SS » Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:32 pm

I knew it. So I will need the 500K5 and 320K5 because I've got AC and PS? Is that what you used? I know you posted up above, but I'm still getting confused / conflicted.
el. oh. el.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:44 pm

I used the K4 500 and 320. I think the SRT pulley(s) may be 5 groove, at least one, prolly the PS/AC belt, since the Ebay ones have the extra groove on the outer pulley.

Image

I really don't understand why the PS/AC needed an extra rib/groove on SRT's. I would have thought the alternator being a higher output would have had an extra rib. But then the PS/AC would need to be spaced out a bit more, and the dampers would not be universal between the 2.0 and 2.4. Oh, that's right, production costs. Fuck function. :lol:
Bill
Olha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester

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