Help: Snapped Bolt during wheel replacement < THE FIX

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quachified
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Help: Snapped Bolt during wheel replacement < THE FIX

Post by quachified » Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:32 pm

When attempting to rid myself of steelies and to put on some black rims my brother got for me, I was loosening a lug nut when the bolt snapped. :( I was wondering if just the bolt was replaceable, or if I were going to have to replace the entire axle?

Pictures are below! Please help! :shock:

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Any recommendations on where/how I should get it done? Is it possible to do it myself? Part #s?
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2003silverneonsxt
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Post by 2003silverneonsxt » Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:44 pm

u just have to get a new stud, and u hammer the old one out through towards the back ( i beleve) and put the new one in..someone else can make sure my info is righ t though
hmmmmm
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Post by quachified » Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:46 pm

thanks for your response. where do i get this stud, any idea on the size?

the only reason i'm freaking out right now is becuase i gotta go back to school soon.. and i'm pretty darn low on funds. just wanna get this done. my friend who is rather iffy when it comes to car knowledge was telling me i'm gonna need to replace my axle.... i know that that would be a bitch to do.

so i'm assuming i need to take off the rotor and that's how i would access this? i'm asking both because i'm stupid and i don't know. i'm proud that i can at least admit it! :oops:
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Post by ewetho » Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:19 pm

Rotor will have to come off and you need to get a stud and lugnut from an autoparts store. Heck just goto Sears and have them put a new one in. Not a big deal should be no more than 40 bucks plus a couple for studs and nuts.
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Post by bigjim » Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:32 pm

f it man roll on 4 lugs like an import 8) 8)
itll be alright
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Post by quachified » Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:39 pm

hah... good one big jim.

i just want this badboy to be fixed. then i can throw on the rims and be done with it.
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Post by Canada » Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:56 pm

Very easily fixed, I am assuming its a rear wheel? you just need to bang the broken one out, and then install the new one by pushing it in, and using a lugnut to pull it all the way in. good to go. I believe our studs are M12x1.5. Could be wrong.

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Post by Diablo0 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:00 am

:lol: I've broken about 5-6 of the stockers in the front and I think I'm about to snap a rear one by the feel of the wrench last time I tried to pull my rear wheels off.

Front is cake and I'm sure the rear is pretty easy as well.

Best thing to do, use a c-clamp. I wouldn't bang on it as you increase the risk of damaging the wheel bearing from the impact :-? I'd wouldn't want to take the risk. I used a c-clamp to push the stock stud out but first you'll need to pull the caliper and rotor off. Once that's off, if you look at the rear of the knuckle you'll see a cutout area where the wheel stud is able to be removed from. Line the broken wheel stud up with that cutout and use the c-clamp to push it out. Make sure the C-Clamp is a pretty heafty one, I've broken one with how tight they're in there.

Once removed, insert the new wheel stud just as the old one came out. The head of the new one should have a flat area on it so make sure that's in the same location as the original. Then take several washers, put them over the bolt and use a lug nut to draw the new wheel stud into place. Once it's drawn in, remove the lug nut and there ya have it, a new wheel stud.

Oh, you can usually find the new wheel studs at Autozone or Advance Autoparts, they're only about $1 and around here they never stock by 1-2 so if they only have 1-2... buy them, never know, one time you'll snap 3 of them on a sunday night and have to go into work the next day and be SOL since the parts stores are closed :lol: So if you need 1 stud... buy 3, :lol:
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Post by quachified » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:24 am

thanks for the tip with the c-clamp. i'll roll to the autozone tomorrow and pick up some stud, hopefully the job won't be too bad.
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Post by Diablo0 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:26 am

Nah, it won't. First time I did it I probably said every word in the book since yah, it was late at night and about 20min until the store was closed and they only had 1 stud in stock. The front studs arent' that hard, I havent' had to do a rear one yet but yah, that'll probably be soon with how the wrench felt when I tried to take a lug off the last time.
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Post by quachified » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:37 am

Thanks Diablo.

Anyone know off the top of their head what the torque setting should be?

I have no clue where my chilton manual is...
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Post by caustic neon » Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:57 am

torque setting for the lugnut? i have no idea but as for the stud it is a type of compression fitting the last part og the stud is slightly larger than the hole in the roter. to get the bolt on (this is how i did it)
blace the stun on through the rear of the rotor, place about 5 or 6 washers on the stud and then the lug nut start tightning the lug nut untill the stud is fully seated. and dont forget to use some greese on your studs it will help prevent the nuts from seezing on the studs and snapping!
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Post by dblsg » Thu Aug 17, 2006 11:39 am

quachified wrote: i'll roll to the autozone tomorrow and pick up some stud.
:gay: :rofl:

j/k man, i had too since they pretty much covered everything on removing/installing :D
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Post by quachified » Thu Aug 17, 2006 2:04 pm

hah, i deserved that one. that's what i get for bad grammar. stud should have been studs... and that would have been worse...
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Post by Diablo0 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 2:25 pm

caustic neon wrote:and dont forget to use some greese on your studs it will help prevent the nuts from seezing on the studs and snapping!
I would not recommend that. I've heard of some people using Anti-Seize on their lugs and over time they worked loose the wheel(s) fell off. I wouldn't put any type of grease on the studs at all. Surpizingly, the replacement studs, compared to my stock studs, my stock studs are all rusted up, the replacements still look brand new like they're made out of stainless steel :-?
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Post by fixitmattman » Thu Aug 17, 2006 4:58 pm

Anti-Seize is the evil.

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Post by SlvrACR » Thu Aug 17, 2006 5:05 pm

Torque spec is 100 ft-lbs.
If you start it by hand so not to cross-thread and torque your wheels this wont happen again
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Post by Diablo0 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 5:20 pm

SlvrACR wrote:Torque spec is 100 ft-lbs.
If you start it by hand so not to cross-thread and torque your wheels this wont happen again
Eh, I start all mine by hand every time and always torque mine to 100 so how did I break mine? At one time I ran open ended lugs so I suspect water got in, rusted the studs to the lugs and seized the two together or make it a tight enough fit that the weakest point was the stud breaking off.
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Post by SlvrACR » Thu Aug 17, 2006 5:34 pm

IDK ive worked at shops for years and never had problems with a car if they were done right. I have never snapped a stud on my cars and my Jeep had open ends also. Maybe your not lucky lol
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Post by Diablo0 » Thu Aug 17, 2006 5:45 pm

Fuckin neons :lol:
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Post by yellowpatrol » Fri Nov 30, 2007 3:10 pm

:( I just did this while putting on my Blizzaks.. At least there's a topic about it, now I'm not as pissed.
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Post by kc2005ptgt » Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:04 am

Ive broke three, one on the front right, left, and rear right. :D Easy-peasy to change, but good to have this info for peeps... I am gonna sticky this info :D
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Post by yellowpatrol » Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:35 am

EASY? Even knowing how to do it it took me all of yesterday. The C-clamps didn't work, so I had to bang it out with a sledgehammer. Not to mention it was like 10 degrees yesterday.
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Adionik wrote:On a 100% stock SRT engine i've seen detonation on 93 octane, I know what i'm talking about.

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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:24 pm

Just twisted a stud in half about an hour ago. Not very happy about it. I'll roll around with 4 for a day and then go to the auto parts store tomorrow and buy a couple. Hopefully inflation hasn't raised the price up from $1 too much. lol

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:03 pm

Wow, I didn't know the stock lug wrench had it in it. :lol:
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:44 pm

Dude that thing is a beast. The end of the handle is a bit twisted, but the rest is solid.
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Wed Apr 20, 2011 12:26 am

The rears were kind of a bitch. Had to pull the hub off, then use a press to pop the studs out. I replaced 4 because that's all I could find at the time. In a few weeks I'll buy another 16 studs and replace all of them when I do my brakes.
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