air ride valves

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:53 am

anybody ever taken one apart? i know they sell re-build kits, but i wanted to take one of my fill valves apart because it dosent seal very well. when i get to work, i lay the car down and then 8.5 hours later, i come out and my right rear bag is almost filled all the way. so my question is: can i just take the valve apart and clean and put it back together, or do i actually need the re-build kit?

neon_ert3 · Post by **neon_ert3** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:24 am

i had a smc valve that did the same thing kinda but i had it for a dump valve so when i let air in, it would let air out. i had to rebuild mines. i think the rubber inside gets weak and then starts lettin air thru. id say rebuild would be you best bet. its only like 12 bux. i 4got the website tho, dan has it. maybe he'll chime in

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:20 am

I'm not familiar with your setup, but I'd imagine it's a manifold setup with 4 individual cartridge solenoid valves.

In industrial pneumatics you can get re-build kits from the manufacturer of the cartridge valve. Comes with o-rings, backup rings (if equipped), an/or any other special seals. If the valves are from a quality manufacturer, ie. parker, norgren, etc, you can get a re-build kit directly from them. If it's some off brand crap you can try contacting them, but may not have as much luck. At worse you can pull the o-rings and match them up to standard sizes.

sullygully · Post by **sullygully** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 1:48 pm

You might just have some tiney particles preventing the valve from closing completely. I had a dump valve that had a slow leak in it. Try unscrewing the nut holding the solenoid in place, remove the solenoid, spray inside the valve with some brake cleaner, put back together, and see if that works.

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 4:37 pm

^ thats basically what my question was... if i opened it, could i put it back together?

thanks guys.

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 5:27 pm

Try some silicone spray first. Sometimes they jam. I used this on mine and it fixed my leak.

LaidNeon · Post by **LaidNeon** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:18 pm

suicidedoors.com sales new diaphrams for them for like 6 bucks or so

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:09 pm

SlvrACR wrote:Try some silicone spray first. Sometimes they jam. I used this on mine and it fixed my leak.

should i just spray it in the line or should i take the valve apart?

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Sat Feb 03, 2007 8:36 am

I just took the hose off and had someone quickly open and shut them while I sprayed it in. Mine were SMC's

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 1:06 pm

^ thanks man

sullygully · Post by **sullygully** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:08 pm

Like i said before dude, use brake cleaner to clean it out. but also use Pneumatic oil(air gun oil) to keep it lubricated. If you still have a leek, most likely you need a rebuild.

This is coming straight out of the mouths the easystreet tech

neon_ert3 · Post by **neon_ert3** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:08 pm

SAM u ever get your valve fixed? i now have the same prob as you

but my this valve is a extreme or something like that and idk if they sale rebuild kits for those. just wanted to kno if the brake cleaner or anyother trick worked. its gettin pretty annoyin!

Mr Josh Zombie · Post by **Mr Josh Zombie** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:59 am

REVIVE!

so, I went to take apart once of my valves, becuase it sticks a bit. I couldn't get the screws off to pop it open. Given, my tank was also at 200PSI, so that was probably a problem...

Basically, should I empty out my tank to open up my valves? or does it even matter?

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:15 am

YES, YOU NEED TO EMPTY THE TANK FIRST!!!!!!

Mr Josh Zombie · Post by **Mr Josh Zombie** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:15 am

thought so

logic told me to do that, but then lazy took over, and i walked away