Mopar / DC Sports Rear Strut Bar *Owners Chime In*

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
getcrunk88
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Post by getcrunk88 » Fri Apr 13, 2007 5:53 pm

ACTUALLY IT DOES NOT SAY IT ON VIBRANTS WEBSITE!!! your wrong buddy everybody is crackin on me saying IM wrong well im not and obviously i do know wtf i am talking about because i just emailed the vibrant TECH asking him how to install one i asked him this:

To: Deryck T. Griffith
Subject: (WWW) - Vibrant Performance Contact Us Form for - Technical Support

Name: Alex

Message: I would like to know if I need to jack up the car before I install the strut bar i have heard that your supposed to do this? would it help any with performance if i were to install it while the car is in the air or will it be the same if I installed it while the car was on the ground? Thanks alot
Alex

He responded:

Hello Alex,


In response to your email, our strut bar should absolutely not be installed with the car jacked up. Please note, the shock tower bars in where our bar is bolted into place is held into position buy the set bolts that come with your car. You have to remove these bolts in order to place our bar into place. If you remove these bolts and jack up the car, your shocks will fall out of position and cause a slue of many other problems that you do not want.

The installation of our bar is very simple. All you need to do is start by making sure the car is on flat ground. Once you have the car on flat ground, apply the hand brake. Remove the bolts that are on the shock towers and put our bar into place. Once our bar is in place, secure the bolts and you are done.

If you are still unsure of how the install the bar, I would suggest that you take it to a trained professional.

Hopefully that helps.

Contact me should you have any other questions.

Best Regards,

Deryck Griffith
Inside Sales
Ph: 905-564-2808 x 237

Is that enough for ya? You have heared it from a suspension techs mouth that you shouldn't raise your car in the air while installing a strut bar It makes absolutley NO sense at all if you want to tell him that he's wrong there is his number for ya!!!

And wisher2 the only reason i said i was a diesel tech was because INVUJERRY had said: BTW, just because you did something with the cousin of your best friend's uncle's Eagle Talon ESI and calls it eclipse, doesn't mean it's the same on a neon.

I guess me being able to turn a wrench does make me able to be knowledgeable on passenger vehicles and their suspension components??

Gillyo2le you still think that i was saying this just to argue with people still? the only reason i went through with actually doing research is because this is so ridiculous that people do this, I never meant to seem like i was looking for an argument im sorry if i came off that way but now you have heared it from the people that produce strut bars. Would there be anybody else that is more knowledgeable then a tech from the place that makes them? Im sure if there was a performance increase if you jack your car in the air before you installed a strut bar they would be totally for it because their job is to make people happy about their product
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Post by gilly02le » Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:19 pm

neons don't have shocks.. so maybe hes well trained.. but he probably doesnt have a lot of hands on with a neon, like people here, most certainly do.

I've jacked the rear of my car up, with the 3 strut mount bolts removed.. on the drivers side, when i was changing out that strut.. It did not drop down until i removed the two large bolts holding the strut, to the lower knuckle.. we are trying to share knowledge here.. not start fights..
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getcrunk88
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Post by getcrunk88 » Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:27 pm

exactly i know we are trying to share knowledge im not tryin to start a fight i never called anybody a moron or a douche to anybody that didn't insult me
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gilly02le
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Post by gilly02le » Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:28 pm

yeah i appologize for that, i don't wanna turn this into neons.org.. anyways.. no more arguing for me.. theres work to be done.. lol
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getcrunk88
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Post by getcrunk88 » Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:30 pm

I think he just used shocks because he knows people understand that not every ricer knows what a strut is lol
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gilly02le
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Post by gilly02le » Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:35 pm

lol very true.. its just too bad a company like that hooks it up by having low prices.... and the ricers go and cover thier 50 dollar car in thier parts, and give them a bad name.... sad really..
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getcrunk88
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Post by getcrunk88 » Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:39 pm

gillyo2le wrote:lol very true.. its just too bad a company like that hooks it up by having low prices.... and the ricers go and cover thier 50 dollar car in thier parts, and give them a bad name.... sad really..
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^LMFAO^^^^^^^^^^
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Canada
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Post by Canada » Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:59 pm

And considering my bar only uses the innermost two bolts, the strut will not go anywhere.

I have physical proof that shows it made a difference. Do you want me to go take a video of me doing it? I have told you what happened when I did it, therefore, it obviously makes a difference. Maybe not for a Vibrant bar that probably fits several vehicles, but Maybe for one designed and/or approved by Mopar engineers.

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Post by gilly02le » Sat Apr 14, 2007 1:48 am

when your out in the snow yankin on the e-brake, you can definitely feel the difference in stiffness.. ive got both dc sports braces.. and love them.. plus they look good too.. lol... funny how the mopar one is a copy of the dc sports design...
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getcrunk88
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Post by getcrunk88 » Sat Apr 14, 2007 8:32 am

True true i guess Mopar's clearances are much tighter then vibrants. Once i save up some cash id like to get one in titanium but im taking a good guess and saying its too much money
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Post by neon2ner » Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:13 am

gilly...

you have a dc front brace? i wasn't aware that they made one for the neon, i only knew they had the srt-4 brace. do you notice more understeer when the front brace is on? just curious, cuz i did with my old front brace.

scott.
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Post by kc2005ptgt » Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:06 pm

Deryck Griffith
Inside Sales

Is that enough for ya? You have heared it from a suspension techs mouth that you shouldn't raise your car in the air while installing a strut bar
Just wanted to point that out. My STB also only has 2 bolts on the inner most edge of it, so when I raised up my car and took out the two bolts, it stayed in place.

It is good that you asked someone about it, but I would say check your sources. There was some info in there off in the first place (shocks? remove all bolts?) so I personally am not impressed with it. Now, as far as my personal experience, my mechanic even offered to raise up my car when doing the alignment and set the bar in place with it off the ground - then I told him I did that already and he said "Good job. Nice thinking on your part." I told him I read on here I was suppose to do it that way, he responds, "well, that was good information. That is the correct way to do it."

So, take that for what it is worth.
SOLD 5/13- 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT Convertible | 2.4L Turbo HO | Bright Silver Metallic
SOLD 7/09- 2002 Dodge Neon ACR | Flame Red
The Offical: Sold My Neon Even Though I Swore I Never Would Club | Member #777

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Post by gilly02le » Sat Apr 14, 2007 1:07 pm

yep, ive got the srt-4 strut braces, lol i kinda cheated to get really nice strut braces.. the strut brace is a hair too tall and made two small dents in my hood.. i dont really care because im going to get an srt-4 style hood neways..
here are some pics of the strut braces..

This is where you notice how much better the motor mount looks when its polished, and not just sand cast. Compared to the bottom pic, id say it looks a lot better having it shined up..
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getcrunk88
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Post by getcrunk88 » Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:41 pm

Yea i think the vibrant strut bar used all of the bolts on each side so i guess you couldn't jack the car up even if you wanted to without taking a chance
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Post by Wisher2 » Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:56 pm

The guy you talked to from Vibrant also worked in Inside Sales which to me has nothing to do with technical support.

I am just wondering why it dosent make sense to you. If you are a mechanic then maybe you will be able to figure it out. MAYBE you are a military mechanic and then in that case I understand why you cant get it and probably never will

getcrunk88
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Post by getcrunk88 » Sat Apr 14, 2007 8:11 pm

i could understand mabey if you HAD to just to get the bar on but i dont think its necessary and i dont think it makes a diffrence with performance
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Post by OverDrive418 » Sat Apr 14, 2007 8:43 pm

OMf-ingG! You guy spend waaaaaaaaaaaaay to much time trying to convince this kid of a moot point. Up or down the f-ing bar is on there! At this point everyone is right! Can we all just agree to disagree, pat each other's asses and move on?!
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Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car. Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you're going when you hit the wall, and torque is how far you drag the wall with you.

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