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I found out why my front suspension/ brake setup was way misaligned 11 degrees. I swapped the knuckle, calipers, and rotor and needed a spacer for my rims to fit. I got it towed to get it aligned. They said that my lower control arms are differant then the srt4's. Is this true and if so where can I get them fast. Thanks

The steering rack is different on the SRT-4. That is why it won’t align correct. The SRT-4 control arms are different too, but only for strength. They wouldn’t fix any alignment issues.

My lower control arms looked just like my friends 03 SRT when I did the ES bushings. I even used the SRT energy kit on my acr

One guy when I was going around helping a guy with an alignment issue with Camber had an SRT and a Non-SRT control arm on the same car. Not an issue. The SRT is boxed heavier for strength.

Look into rack-n-pinion length to solve your toe problem. SRT is much shorter I think it was.

So what aspect of your alignment is out?

I didnt get any numbers, but my car was like this \ / 11 degrees off, The guy aligned my car as best as he could, its driveable. I drove it to my house 2 miles away but i parked it until I can find out what i need to do or get.

This is what they wrote on the receipt I got. Lower Control arms are most likely will need to be replaced of the srt4 model. We did Total Toe, Tie rods are out of threads.

They also said it is aligned to -1, which i thought was a reasonable number. But dunno. And my steering wheel is way off. They also said my wheel bearings are loose and need to be replaced.

I also emailed the guy that did the swap but i dont know when he will check his email.

Thanks

if the camber is aligned to -1 your tires should look like /\ , what appears to have happened is that you had the positive camber that i had.


1st thing you need is an SRT steering rack to take car of your steering wheel position. it is a must in this case. 2nd thing, which I'm planning on doing, is slotting my struts so that I can get the adjustment for the -1 camber. There are other alignment kits, but they cost $280+.

For now, until you get those things taken care of I'd put your original front brakes on so you don't eat up your tires. I'm running like that for the interim.

That shop doesn't sound real trustworthy, but that is only from the things you are saying...

It's the steering rack, the SRT control arms are the same shape, just a little stronger. I have a regular Neon control arm on my white car right now b/c the ball joint on the control arm that was on the donor car was shattered. Only had a Neon control arm to replace it with, stuck it on... aligned the car and it went just fine.

The rack is your problem or do what I think Adam K. said he did and buy some aftermarket tie rod ends then cut them down so you can thread them on more to adjust the toe.

On that note... what aftermarket tie rod ends did you use Adam? Moog?

I read here or somewhere about someone modifying the rod ends on the rack to eliminate the problen without swapping the whole rack. If I trusted this wholeheartedly though, I'd be making an offer on the set up that is for sale on here.

Ok, I put my stock front brakes back on. My alignment is actually pretty good, but my steering wheel is off 90 degrees. So I will have to go get it aligned tommorrow. I guess that guy that did my swap used a stock neon rack. Which is why i'm having problems. He said I might check to see if the SRT inner tie rod ends are the same as the Neon. They might be shorter, it sounds like they ran out of threads trying to adjust the toe on your neon tie rods.

Anyways my current brake setup is SRT disc rears, SRT 4 ABS and Stock 2001 Dodge neon SE Front Knuckles, Calipers, and Rotors. This setup up feels real solid, so I am just gonna get better pads and maybe a slotted rotor. My car stops really good, and feels safe even after acelerating real hard and braking.

The pros of this setup from my past experiences this week are,

No need for a 8mm spacer for my rims to clear the calipers

Also means no front tires sticking out of the wheel well. ( Looked in to rolling the front fenders, but the fenders wouldnt match up the bumper, cant roll the front bumper.

The stock knuckles, rotors and calipers weigh lighter then srt4's

And with the stock knuckles, rotors and calipers setup, you can fit a wider tire then srt 4's.

No need for a srt 4 steering rack

So I'm just gonna put my srt 4 front brake setup for sell soon. Thanks for the help everyone. At least I learned a couple things about suspension and brakes in the process.

pyro wrote:I read here or somewhere about someone modifying the rod ends on the rack to eliminate the problen without swapping the whole rack. If I trusted this wholeheartedly though, I'd be making an offer on the set up that is for sale on here.

I have a feeling they are since Moog uses two different part numbers for them. Mopar doesn't list the tie rods as being serviceable and make you buy the whole rack. At least the last time I looked thats how it was...