Rear Lateral Arms - Bushing Replacement

[latief]

I am about to do the whole energy suspension bushing kit, i will start with the rear of the vehicle. of course, i am expecting a lousy and tough job especially since i am doing it on jack-stands...

here are my questions:

The FSM says that when installing new lateral arms in the back, you have to install them yet not tighten them all the way before you put the vehicle at curb height. this way, once you tighten them all the way (at the frame, and at the knuckle), the bushings will be in the idle position therefor last longer and sit better .......

that is easy if you have a lift, but how am i going to do this once the vehicle is on the ground since i don't have a lift? it will be way to low for me to do anything under there....

Also, i know you need a press for the front bushings and ball joints, do you need the press when working on the rear bushings also?

thanks,

[Diablo0]

Yah, it's suggested but it's not really necessary that I've found. It's a little bit of a stretch but you might be able to reach it from the back with some help as someone from the front holds a open ended wrench on the bar to keep it from twisting as you tighten at the rear.

A press does make it a lot easier. A few months ago I purchased a 12-ton press from Harbor Freight for about $100.

[latief]

Yah, it's suggested but it's not really necessary that I've found. It's a little bit of a stretch but you might be able to reach it from the back with some help as someone from the front holds a open ended wrench on the bar to keep it from twisting as you tighten at the rear.

A press does make it a lot easier. A few months ago I purchased a 12-ton press from Harbor Freight for about $100.

I just read that there is also a metal sleeve that needs to be reused in the back, and that you need a torch to burn some of the rubber out, is that accurate?

sounds messy

[04R/T]

I am about to do the whole energy suspension bushing kit, i will start with the rear of the vehicle. of course, i am expecting a lousy and tough job especially since i am doing it on jack-stands...

here are my questions:

The FSM says that when installing new lateral arms in the back, you have to install them yet not tighten them all the way before you put the vehicle at curb height. this way, once you tighten them all the way (at the frame, and at the knuckle), the bushings will be in the idle position therefor last longer and sit better .......

that is easy if you have a lift, but how am i going to do this once the vehicle is on the ground since i don't have a lift? it will be way to low for me to do anything under there....

Back it up on ramps?

[Diablo0]

Yah, it's suggested but it's not really necessary that I've found. It's a little bit of a stretch but you might be able to reach it from the back with some help as someone from the front holds a open ended wrench on the bar to keep it from twisting as you tighten at the rear.

A press does make it a lot easier. A few months ago I purchased a 12-ton press from Harbor Freight for about $100.

I just read that there is also a metal sleeve that needs to be reused in the back, and that you need a torch to burn some of the rubber out, is that accurate?

sounds messy

I'm not sure on the rears since for the tension struts I just bought the Mopar Performance upgraded struts and the rear control arms I left the same since my kit didn't have bushings for them. On the white car I just went with the Manny Z bars. However, based on other bushings on the car that require you to use stock metal inserts, yes, the easiest way to get them out is to burn them out. The rubber is pretty hard to cut through with a knife so burning them out makes life a lot easier.