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Ok, I did the srt rear disc brake swap and now I have to push the pedal to the floor a little more than I used to with the drum setup?
Is this normal? I completey changed out old brake fluid with new and bleed all brakes.
Also new rotors and pads were installed on just the rear, and I also swaped to the srt hubs in the rear.

what was ur bleeding procedure??? did you start from the farthest away and work ur way forward or did u bleed ur brake each individually as ur swapped them??? Be sure ur not leaking brake fluid from anywhere and I would bleed them again just to be safe.

NO fluid leaking anywhere, I started, rear passanger, rear driver, passenger front, then drive front last.
This is how I bleed them, I put a tube on the nipple into a clear bottle filled with fluid so the hose sits in the fluid, I then opened the nipple and continued to pump the brakes with my hand as I looked under the car at the bottle and kept on pumping until I saw no more air bubbles.

Bleeding is really a two person job. Someone to pump the brake and hold the other to open the bleeders, unless you have one of those pressure machine gizmos that allow you to do the bleeding on your own.

Bleeding again would be safe.

Oh! they won't be AS firm as before because the Master Cylinder has to move more fluid for the rear disc than for the rear drum. I have posted a thread in the parts number area about finding a 15/16th bore MC for non ABS 4 disc brakes. This will be an upgrade in diameter from the 7/8th bore that you are using currently.

Yeah the pedal always feels different with rear disks than drums. I can always tell when a car has rear disks just by the way the brake feels when I press it to stop.

Aren't you supposed to pump the brakes, then hold the brake pedal down, open the bleed valve to release the air, then tighten the valve before releasing the brake pedal?

That's what I've been instructed to do, but it may have been the wrong advice. There is a brake bleeder that you attach to the master cylinder to bleed the air the opposite way, though that is a newer type bleeding tool.

^Yeah, the pedal shouldn't be lifted before tightening. It really does take two people.

I was thinking the same thing but there is a 1 man way of bleeding them but it always feels safer with 2 people.

Kevin have you driven the car at all to see if the car is stopping fine at all or no???

thttxboy wrote:I was thinking the same thing but there is a 1 man way of bleeding them but it always feels safer with 2 people.

I actually have the 1 man brake bleeding tool, it's available at just about any auto parts store. It's just a hand actuated vacuum pump with a rubber hose for the bleeder valve. Some people say it doesn't work that good, but in my experience it did a good job on the brakes as well as hydraulic clutches with a bleeder valver (which neons do not have).

I did buy that vac tool and did not like it. My car does stop on a dime and took it on the freeway and man that is were I felt the difference, night and day with the disc setup.
Ok, you guys are answering my question, I do believe I just wasnt used to the rear disc feel of the brake pedal and this must be normal and now i can tell if it is drums or disc in the rear now just by pressing the brake pedal.
I do not have to push hard at all with discs in the rear, I just had to push slightly farther than normal but it is a softer feel when pushing.
You can bleed a one man job as I seen on youtube. Here is the link and this is what I kind off did although i did not have a fancy jar, I just used a plastic coke bottle. Check out this video, this is what I did
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvyztDFHhaY

hansken_yo wrote:Bleeding is really a two person job. Someone to pump the brake and hold the other to open the bleeders, unless you have one of those pressure machine gizmos that allow you to do the bleeding on your own.

Bleeding again would be safe.

Oh! they won't be AS firm as before because the Master Cylinder has to move more fluid for the rear disc than for the rear drum. I have posted a thread in the parts number area about finding a 15/16th bore MC for non ABS 4 disc brakes. This will be an upgrade in diameter from the 7/8th bore that you are using currently.

Is this the part number for the 15/16th bore mc Part# 390638?
Is this a ordering part at napa, or can we get it somewhere else, also how much did you pay and did it really help when you installed it.
I only have done the srt rear and maybe the srt fronts down the road, but the stock fronts seem just fine.
Thanks

The part number I posted was for NAPA. Other members have informed me of different stores having MC with the 15/16th bore. I have posted their findings and where they found them in that thread as well.

I dont remember exactly what i paid... it was less than $200. I'm thinking $150-175ish.


You wont Need the 15/16th bore unless you plan on going big brake kit (like me ), though it does help with firming up of the pedal.

Yeah $200 bucks I am not sure if it would be worth it, maybe if I did the big brake kit for the fron like you said, but tht would mean i first need the srt front brakes and am not sure I want to get into that mess, like replacing the steering rack, and so forth.
EDIT: Just called Napa and they said they can do $155 for me and have it here by tommorow. My next question is how hard is this to install, and does it require me to bleed everything again?

I also found this one cheaper than napa, will this one work? I am not sure if this is abs or not.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... 63050.html



Thanks

Installation isn't too hard, it would require to you prep the MC and the re-bleed everything which is going to be a PITA cause the air bubbles are at the top. Pretty much means a complete flush of the system.

I installed the 15/16th bore when doing my rear swap and it helped alot, It allows me to do the "manual abs tap" so easily. I couldn't believe how much just being able to rapidly tap the brakes so quickly increased my stopping in snowy conditions.

When u install the new MC u do need to pre-bleed the master before you put the lines on. all u do is bolt in the master without the lines connected and fill it with fluid till fluid is flowing nicely through each whole, if its not flowing dont' quote me but I think u step on the peddle as if you were to bleed the brakes. Then after u bleed the master u bleed the lines like normal.

Thanks for all your help guys, I had just placed an order here
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... 63050.html
$127 shipped is a good deal.
Cant wait to get it, already bought dot3 fluid.

kevin25 wrote:Thanks for all your help guys, I had just placed an order here
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... 63050.html
$127 shipped is a good deal.
Cant wait to get it, already bought dot3 fluid.

Can you confirm for me that this is a 4 port MC? If so then it will be the right kind of MC that you need and then I'll add the link to the thread I created for 15/16 MCs.

Thanks Yo...

I will have to call tommorow, I hope it is a 4 port, do i need 4 port right?
I already ordered it so i hope it is a 4 port but will call tommorow to make sure.

i bet it is it looks like the one i got only mine was from NAPA i think there is one port on the right, 2 on the left and one underneath?

Yeah that is the way this one looks, but i will have to call today and confirm it just to make sure. I will keep you guy's posted.

LOL.. I called and of course they say they dont know how many ports it has. Will I guess I will have to wait util I get it and count them

hehehe... you'll need the reducers (?????) for the two side ports. They are on your current MC. The new MC should have 4 ports. This is a must if you don't have ABS.

2 on the side towards the passenger side of the car 1 towards the driver's and then one underneath.

Got the MC today and ofcourse it only has two ports. Looks like I will be sending it back. I guess I will be getting the one at napa
Does anyone know where I can order the 15/16 MC online that excepts paypal?
Thanks

Lame.... and to answer your question with certainty.. No.

I cant find anywhere that carries a 15/16 MC discs all the way around W/O ABS
This freaken sucks, I have paypal and need to pay that way. I called Napa they want like $150, murrays wants $100 with core.
The only problem is the money is in my paypal

I think I may have found it, rockauto.com. Will this work? It says it only has 3 ports though? I thought I need 4?
RAYBESTOS Part # MC390638 {Professional Grade Bore Size=15/16" Number of Ports=3 Secondary Outlet Size=M18x1.0/7/16-24}
Front Disc Brakes; Rear Disc Brakes; Power Brakes; Non ABS Brakes; 15/16" Bore

Update on the new MC? is it the right one?

dude just send your money to a normal bank account from paypal and then take the money out and pay cash at napa

Ok I got the MC from rock auto and already had installed it. It was identical to the stock one.
I installed it and had to bleed everything again and wow what a difference. I have a nice firm feel to the pedal now, not that sponge feel.
I am 100% satisified I did this and was well worth it. Thanks for all your help guys.

kevin25 wrote:Ok I got the MC from rock auto and already had installed it. It was identical to the stock one.
I installed it and had to bleed everything again and wow what a difference. I have a nice firm feel to the pedal now, not that sponge feel.
I am 100% satisified I did this and was well worth it. Thanks for all your help guys.

Can you send me detailed info of this and where you got it in a PM? I'll add it to the list.

Thanks