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so im finally going to buckle down and get me some tokico blues in about a month.and im currently running stock struts with drop zone lowering springs. but when i do go with the tokico blues i was wanting to do the 1st gen lowering springs in the rear so itll give my rear wheel that really tucked in look with what i think is 4 inch or 5 inch drop. but will runing those 1st gen springs blow the tokico blue struts..?


and is the average price like $260 for 4 tokico blues ?

Tokicos are $280 at Modern, KYBs are $240.

As for the springs if you want the rear wheel to tuck up nicely I'd go with Eibach Sportlines (see sig. photo), which are another $200.

4-5 inches would pretty much put the car on the ground since they sit 6" off the ground stock. the 2 & 2.4" drop of the sportlines is going to be pretty rough on the struts as is. I don't know of any strut made to go further than 3" off hand other than air ride. I also don't know for certain if you can drop the car that much with out having to do major body work...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you only have about 3" of suspension travel, so there's no way you can get a 4" drop w/o coilovers. Any drop over 1.5" via springs is going to cause a lot of bottoming-out unless you know how to cut the bump stops, because you'll have very little suspension travel to absorb bumps.

tokico blues are good, but will not last very long on sportlines. Even my expensive acr shocks blew. The tokico adjustables for the srt are nice too. I would go with tien s-techs. They are a decent drop without being too low, and have a high spring rate to keep from bottoming out constantly.

hmm ok thanks for the ideas.

i might just keep using my current lowering springs wich are dropzone 1.5 inch drop in the rear and front. that should be ok.

but say i changed my rear to eibach springs and leaev my front onces alone would it cause for uneven/ not so good ride quality.

I'd go with Tokico Blues and your choice of springs. Don't mix and match springs front to rear, though. Different spring rates FTL.

mixing springs isn't the best idea, it will mess with the ride quality by causing the balance to be off front to back. Forget what it's called exactly; something about frequency of the vibration each different spring has. Allthough i would like to try the sportline front springs with tien s-tech rear. 200# rear and 230#front would be a good combo.

alrite thanks guys. now how much difference is theere between 1.5 drop and 1.8 cause man i cant really go any lower than 1.5 in the front but id go with 1.8 drop if its not that big of a difference. since i might go with Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs .. theres is 1.8 in the front and 2.0 in rear.

Coil Overs. /thread

but if you cant' save up for those then sportlines are the next best thing IMHO.

hansken_yo wrote:Coil Overs. /thread

but if you cant' save up for those then sportlines are the next best thing IMHO.

Pretty much the exact same thing I would have told you.

hansken_yo wrote:Coil Overs. /thread

but if you cant' save up for those then sportlines are the next best thing IMHO.

i would get coilovers if i still had my good paying job that i had back in july. but now i can only go for tokico blues.

The Tokicos are great, best bang for the buck performance struts out there. /thread

so another question. with the tokico blues would i still have to use my camber bolts to get a good alignment cause rite now im using camber bolts to adjust my camber..

Oh, are the struts slotted? If so then you might be able to get by without the camber bolts unless your camber is really really negative. if they are not slotted then yes you will need them.

Just in case your wondering what I mean by slotted. The top strut to knuckle bolt hole will be longer than the bottom, which allows for the knuckle to be adjusted in the strut itself.... If you knew that awesome... if not you sure do now

hansken_yo wrote:Oh, are the struts slotted? If so then you might be able to get by without the camber bolts unless your camber is really really negative. if they are not slotted then yes you will need them.

Just in case your wondering what I mean by slotted. The top strut to knuckle bolt hole will be longer than the bottom, which allows for the knuckle to be adjusted in the strut itself.... If you knew that awesome... if not you sure do now

ohh. still kinda confused.

The top hole of the strut clevis is ground down to be oblong to allow for camber adjustment. Same thing as using an undersize bolt; it allows the strut to move relative to the knuckle. Slotting is a better way to do it in theory though; it will have a lower chance of slipping.

See where the strut would slide over the knuckle... Where the two bolts would go through. The top one in this picture is elongated so that you can make camber adjustment without the use of camber plates or camber bolts.

That is what I mean by slotted. Hope this helps.

hansken_yo wrote:

See where the strut would slide over the knuckle... Where the two bolts would go through. The top one in this picture is elongated so that you can make camber adjustment without the use of camber plates or camber bolts.

That is what I mean by slotted. Hope this helps.

oh ok thanks man. now i know what you mean. sorry i was confused earlier.

its a hard thing to describe without pictures.

hansken_yo wrote:its a hard thing to describe without pictures.

yeah it is.

so i finally have some extra money i can trow to some new struts and some other things.

i might go with the KYBs gr 2 or tokico blues dont know yet and for springs idk either but i have a question

does a upper strut bar really help. cause i might get me one for the front and rear when i get to ordering my struts.