Tie Rod, how long does this take?

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
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lilnicko11
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Tie Rod, how long does this take?

Post by lilnicko11 » Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:18 pm

NOOBY QUESTION HERE: sorry. Im just making sure that I don't get dicked over by a shop. I need to replace my outer drivers side front tie rod. I picked one up at Advance Auto the other day. I don't wanna screw anything up so Im gonna take it to get done. It shouldn't take a shop more than about a half hour to do, correct? Thanks guys!! :) :)
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Post by racer12306 » Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:23 pm

please post in the correct section



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Neon4Life
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Re: Tie Rod, how long does this take?

Post by Neon4Life » Tue Mar 31, 2009 3:28 pm

lilnicko11 wrote:NOOBY QUESTION HERE: sorry. Im just making sure that I don't get dicked over by a shop. I need to replace my outer drivers side front tie rod. I picked one up at Advance Auto the other day. I don't wanna screw anything up so Im gonna take it to get done. It shouldn't take a shop more than about a half hour to do, correct? Thanks guys!! :) :)
well if ur cerrently have your stock ones on there then itll depend on whether they are rusted on there. i know for a fact that it might take them like 1 hour on each side depends on what method they use to take them off. but once the new ones are on itll be an easy thing to take off and on. why dont you try replacing them ur self. its not too hard.
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Post by jT » Wed Apr 01, 2009 2:55 am

how much time it ACTUALLY takes probably wont matter.. they might bill you by the job which could be written as 2 hours or something like that... thats how most mechanics do it.. the book says the job should take 4 hours so they bill you for 4 hours, even though it only took them 2 to actually finish

as for doing it yourself -- its not that hard. even the first time doing it shouldnt take very long and only need basic hand tools.. although a torch could be helpful getting it off

you should learn to do it yourself because if you bought the cheap $20 one at advance auto in about a year youll probably have to replace it again... ive done mine 3x now

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Post by Neon4Life » Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:58 am

jT wrote:how much time it ACTUALLY takes probably wont matter.. they might bill you by the job which could be written as 2 hours or something like that... thats how most mechanics do it.. the book says the job should take 4 hours so they bill you for 4 hours, even though it only took them 2 to actually finish

as for doing it yourself -- its not that hard. even the first time doing it shouldnt take very long and only need basic hand tools.. although a torch could be helpful getting it off

you should learn to do it yourself because if you bought the cheap $20 one at advance auto in about a year youll probably have to replace it again... ive done mine 3x now

yeah i forgot about the book price and hour thing.
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Post by OB » Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:34 am

I could probably have it off in 1/2 hour or less, and a new one in within another 1/2 hr. Piece of cake. Basic hand tools FTW.
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Post by lilnicko11 » Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:47 am

I don't have a Haynes Manual or anything. Anyone have any basic directions or links to places online for directions and tools I will need. If you guys think that a NOOB with not much car knowledge can pull it off, then be my guest and maybe we can all have a laugh after wards.
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:50 am

Since the after market ones are different, you will still need to get the toe set. The nut isn't the same, so you loose your reference point putting it back on.
You could measure from the knuckle to a mark on the tie rod, but if the end is shot/loose, that fucks that option.

Yes a propane torch to heat it up will greatly speed the process. If all breaks loose w/out trouble, it would take as long as jacking it up/supporting,
removing the tire,
breaking loose the locknut,
unthreading the nut on the bottom,
whacking it with a hammer,
unscrewing it,
and installing the new one,
reinstalling the tire, getting the toe set.
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Post by lilnicko11 » Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:59 am

just watched a crappy youtube vid on it. maybe i can pull it off. haha
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Post by Neon4Life » Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:02 am

lilnicko11 wrote:just watched a crappy youtube vid on it. maybe i can pull it off. haha
yeah man just try doing it urself and if u cant well then u can at least say that u tried to fix it urself. and ull save money by doing it urself. but ill let u know this when and if u do change it urself take it to get alligned immidiately cause the steering wheel will be way off, at least mine was when i did it. it was like turned half way just to go straight.lol.
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Post by lilnicko11 » Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:11 am

how much does an alignment cost usually??
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Post by Neon4Life » Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:13 am

i think they usually run about $60 not for sure cause i havent gone to a shop for a while.
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Post by lilnicko11 » Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:18 am

ewwwy.......well then im gonna pray to god that it isn't that far off......any precautions that i can take to maybe lessen the chances of how far off it is?
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Post by Neon4Life » Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:21 am

yeah you can count how many turns the tie rod makes when taking it off and just turn it the same amount of turns when putting it back on. but i think it will still be off im not sure. just be careful cause i mean they do recomment an alignment when having it done. maybe u can just get a front wheel alignment wich then i dont think it would cost alot.
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Post by lilnicko11 » Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:28 am

Thanks. I've seen a couple youtube vids where they do count the turns taking off and putting on so that they lessen the effects of being way off. I will remember to do that. I used to have a friend who could get me alignments for free but now his boss wont let him. bummer. Thanks FRESH04NEON or the help. If you have any other pointers, let it be known. Looks like all i needs is a jack, some wrenches, hammer/rubber mallet, a brain, some beer for afterwrds and im good to go.......I HOPE
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Post by Neon4Life » Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:19 am

lilnicko11 wrote:Thanks. I've seen a couple youtube vids where they do count the turns taking off and putting on so that they lessen the effects of being way off. I will remember to do that. I used to have a friend who could get me alignments for free but now his boss wont let him. bummer. Thanks FRESH04NEON or the help. If you have any other pointers, let it be known. Looks like all i needs is a jack, some wrenches, hammer/rubber mallet, a brain, some beer for afterwrds and im good to go.......I HOPE
hellz yeah thats all u need. dont get frustrated if it doesnt come off easily.who knows it might then it might not. other pointers well idk.
good luck. :lol:
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Post by jT » Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:41 am

the only thing i take exception to with what occasional demons said and what the directions say for replacing a tie rod end is the whole bit about the lock nut.. i've NEVER had to remove it or loosen it or do anything else to it in order to replace a tie rod end.

i did do it the first time (since i didnt know any better) and it messed up my alignment, but subsequently after that i knew i did not need to touch it.

1) loosen lug nugs, jack up car, remove wheel
2) use a socket to take off the nut on the bottom of the tie rod end where it connects to the knuckle
3) clamp a set of vice grips on the inner tie rod so that you can hold onto it (the inner tie rod turns in place)
4) use a 22mm (i think is what i used) open end wrench (or whatever you have that fits, or another pair of vice grips, or maybe even bare hands if its easy to turn) to unscrew the tie rod end from the inner tie rod
** torch the tie rod end as needed (optional but helps if its cold, rusted, or seized onto the inner tie rod)
5) screw new tie rod end on up to the nut that you have not touched because you didnt need to touch it
6) put bottom into knuckle and install new nut and tighten it

done.

your alignment should be the same as it was before.

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Post by lilnicko11 » Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:53 am

Thanks bro. A friend of mine and I will be doing this later on. Maybe I'll take some pics....Two brains hopefully will come through on this. Hopefully a hammer or rubber mallet will do. Doubt i need the torch. i don't believe its that old.
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Post by DoubtedNeon » Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:15 pm

just got mine done, camber and alignment for 400 dollars. rape. they wouldnt give my car back, but they did drop the price 80 bucks
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Post by Neon4Life » Wed Apr 01, 2009 3:35 pm

DoubtedNeon wrote:just got mine done, camber and alignment for 400 dollars. rape. they wouldnt give my car back, but they did drop the price 80 bucks
for a flipping tie rod end and alignment. omg. rediculous. but hey its ur money.
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:26 pm

the only thing i take exception to with what occasional demons said and what the directions say for replacing a tie rod end is the whole bit about the lock nut.. i've NEVER had to remove it or loosen it or do anything else to it in order to replace a tie rod end.



The one I bought had a totally different style lock nut. the oem one clamps down, and the one I bought was the jam type.

I now have two Moog I have to install, as the other oem one I didn't change is just shy of adjustment to get the toe set for the drivers side. Prolly due to changing the crossmember, and not getting it perfectly centered. I got both tierod ends for way less than having the shop loosen the crossmember and redoing the whole front alignment. (Unclaimed freight FTW!)
Besides they will both match. :roll:

As for the alignment all that would need set is the toe in. It shouldn't run more than $20. For $60, I can get all four corners camber and toe set.
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Apr 05, 2009 11:00 pm

Since I'm doing mine, I'll do a how to.

Which will include my problem/solution with the Moog style tie rod end. Just glad I have an alternate vehicle.
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Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

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Post by Phasmatis » Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:06 pm

The first time i ever did tie rods i did both inner and outer with no prior instructions i just followed what came with them. The entire process is honestly super easy. I have to replace my passanger outer (goign to just do both inner and outer) and I can assure you the job is extremely simple. Tie rods are pretty much just long ass bolts that hook to your wheel lol

My biggest problem with doing tie rods is the stupid pin on the castle nut on the top of the tie rod... but that is it lol. Trust us, it is easy.
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Post by lilnicko11 » Tue Apr 21, 2009 4:27 pm

thanks..........but already fixed it three weeks ago. it was pretty easy.
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Post by Phasmatis » Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:31 am

oh lol old thread hahah :) my bad! Glad you got it fixed!
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