new rotors

Paul56 · Post by **Paul56** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:12 pm

I'm getting new front rotors installed... the pads (with 2 years low mileage/low use wear) are fine and will be staying on.

What is the best way to get these rotors broken-in.

A few hard braking sessions?

I think LSP wrote something about this somewhere here...

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:54 pm

I just received EBC pads and rotors. The pads stated they needed 4 35-0 slow stops and 2 20-0 hard stops to seat properly. The rotors stated a few hundred miles of light drivin to break in.

Personally, in your situation I'd do a few break-in stops, and stay away from the track or spirited driving for a tank o gas.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:35 pm

I used the break in or bedding steps I found online somewhere. It said do 5 or 6 hard braking scenarios back to back from 50-60mph down to 10mph or so. On the 4th or 5th one you will feel the brakes fading and not grabbing very well, this is normal. After that you want to drive the car for 20-30 minutes (on the highway preferably) using the brakes sparingly so the pads can cool down. During this time you don't want to come to a complete stop with the brakes applied, because they can glaze the pads or warp/glaze the rotor if they're new.

I used that method on my brakes and it worked great. I think I read that procedure on the EBC website, but it may have been another big brand site.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:24 pm

Me, personally would just put new pads on. I just don't see how pads that are not worn perfectly flat can not have a decent brake response untill the two mate together. That leaves you/others at risk until they do. Plus the high spots will get hotter, increasing the chance of afore mentioned glazing. I always replace rotors and pads together. Maybe wasteful, but I like to stop when I need to.
Getting new pads bedded in is one thing, but used, I think is going to take a bit longer. also, another thing to consider: If you need to brake hard, and the road surface is wet, the rears will grab better than the fronts, if not fully bedded. You will be going for a ride.
Labor shouldn't be much more if you are paying to have the rotors replaced, as they are already there.

Just my $.02

ragek23 · Post by **ragek23** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:29 pm

I am quite surprised u arn't replacing the pads anway. Because as long as you arn't buying race pads they are pretty cheap. I think its worth it in the long run todo both at the same time.

Dylan-00Blue · Post by **Dylan-00Blue** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:13 pm

definately lol can anyone suggest any good rotors for ou cars?

ragek23 · Post by **ragek23** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 2:07 am

are u looking for performance, style, or just good OEM replacement?

DoubtedNeon · Post by **DoubtedNeon** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:36 am

ya i wanna know something thast a good pad, i kinda want style.

Paul56 · Post by **Paul56** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:00 am

They were putting it back together this morning when I went down.

I asked them to replace the pads at the same time.

Might as well because the wheel bearings, control arm bushings and rotors on both sides are being replaced.

Once this job is done I may going ahead and get the rear wheel bearings (hubs) replaced a little later... even though there are no symptoms everything in terms of bearings will be new all around.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 1:56 pm

It is always recommended to get new pads when you get new rotors, or even turn the rotors. Considering good pads are $30 at the parts store, it's good insurance to make the the rotors are broken in properly.

Dylan-00Blue · Post by **Dylan-00Blue** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:25 pm

im thinkin slotted rotors