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For the people who did the rear disc disc brake conversion, do you remember the size of the socket thats fits on the two bolts holing the e-brake cables to the bottom of the car? For some reason 1/2 to 11/16 all don't fit right. It could be because of all the crap that has accumulated on it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated since I already did half the dam work and four dam bolts are holding me up.

I don't know the size off the top of my head, but part of the problem is that you aren't using metric sockets. Chrysler hasn't used standard sizes since the late 70s/early 80s.

Go get you a good set of metric sockets and wrenches. Right meow

Yup, they be metric. I found that you don't even need to take them off; you can just pry the holder open or closed.

its metric. I think 13mm or 15mm quite possibly even 10mm.. one of those 3 iirc.

I did go out and buy a metric set, long and shallow, got everything off on both sides except for the long bolt that holds the knuckle to the lateral bar. Now that sob wasn't going anywhere, almost stripped the bolt head with my breaker bar.... looks like I need to bring it somewhere now..

Thanks for everyones help.

You don't need to take that off. You can use your original knuckles and hubs rather than the ones with your swap.

I find that I am always using 10, 13, and 15 metric sizes are all over the neon.

Good luck with the cable.

I want to do a rear disk swap but im not sure what all i need to snag (e-brake cable wise)

ZeroChad wrote:You don't need to take that off. You can use your original knuckles and hubs rather than the ones with your swap.

How exactly do you do that?

Does the assembly come off as a whole or do I have to take everything off the new and old assembly and swap them?

it is either 15mm or 13mm.... but 15 sticks in my head... i just pulled them off to.... lol

ZeroChad wrote:You don't need to take that off. You can use your original knuckles and hubs rather than the ones with your swap.

THANK YOU!
...now you tell me...

The hub/knuckles are the spindles. Disassemble your drums and use your original spindles in your swap. You could zip tie the lines in place... kind of ghetto, but it'll work.

srtgtr34 wrote:

ZeroChad wrote:You don't need to take that off. You can use your original knuckles and hubs rather than the ones with your swap.

How exactly do you do that?

Does the assembly come off as a whole or do I have to take everything off the new and old assembly and swap them?

This is an old post but It should help you understand what you need to swap. Scroll down till you see the pics and read:

viewtopic.php?t=34484&highlight=thttxboy

Thanks for that info thttxboy, that is awesome that I don't have to go through the trouble of taking the spindle/knuckle out.

Question, I have never torn apart the rears yet since the rotors are still stuck on them.. So when I swap everything over, that includes the new e-brake assembly right?, or is the drum's assembly basically the same?

One of the main reason's I bought this setup was to have a good e-brake.

The discs have a small drum style brake built into the top hat for parking.

Notice how small the shoes are in diameter here? these fit into the "top hat"



IDK if they will work any better than the drum brake set up for holding power or not. If you really want clamping power, a line lock would work best.

You guys were very helpful.

I was able to get the drivers side disc setup installed, but fell short on the passenger side due to the lack of sunlight.

It took an hour alone to get the dust caps off the dam drums, they were rusted on there so bad that you couldn't even tell that it wasn't connected to the drums.

Flat-head screwdriver + hammer FTW!

Man, so many people on here still know so little about the disc brake swap. A little research will go a long way. All the info is on this site for what you need and don't need. It's even stickied. I hate when people attempt to change the knuckle. It's an unnecessary step that should be avoided because that lonf bolt will most likely break. I'm glad you got the one side done! We had that problem on Dan's car too with the rust. The drums wouldn't come off either. We had to take two big pry bars and keep banging on them between the drum and the dust shield to get them off. The stupid nuts didn't wanna come off that hold the hub on either.

For those of us that are still stuck with the drums, a little anti seize around the center hole helps. (once you remove it) This is so the future swap goes smoother.

Just to answer the OP's question, those bolts holding the bracket to the body are 10mm...