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Which would be more cost effective mind you I have 15psi on my current setup also how would i go about changing the rear drums i didnt see a how to on here and how would i go about doing an srt rear brake setup non ABS. Im sorry if this is posted some where or a repeat common question

Here you go:

viewtopic.php?t=8325&highlight=rear+brake+swap

this will help also.

viewtopic.php?p=467419&highlight=#467419


Basically if you remove your rear drums from the knuckle the srt brakes will bolt up the same way just its disc brakes lol

An SRT rear swap would basically be no different than the R/T or 1gn rear disc swap. Most ppl have no issues doing a full SRT brake swap with the regular disc/drum setup. Cost effectiveness depends on how much you can obtain the swap parts, VS replacing the drums/brake hardware. I'm assuming you are replacing the drums due to The exterior rotting away. They should last damn near the life of the car in a non rust belt location. Mine were literally falling apart, but the wear surface was in good shape.

viewtopic.php?t=8325

viewtopic.php?t=44376

viewtopic.php?t=40075

i have never worked on breaks before and i dont know what to look for i just know they are starting to make noises when i slow down im not but only when i first start to drive im not sure if they do it all the time hard to tell with the SRT exhaust setup and thanks guys for the link

If you are referring to squealing when you first start out for the day, every newer Dodge product I've owned, since the 90's has developed that. You could try having the drums turned with a de glazing pass. That may clear it up for a year or so. I usually just yank the parking brake for about 30 feet 'till it stops, and they are quiet the rest of the day.

occasional demons wrote:If you are referring to squealing when you first start out for the day, every newer Dodge product I've owned, since the 90's has developed that. You could try having the drums turned with a de glazing pass. That may clear it up for a year or so. I usually just yank the parking brake for about 30 feet 'till it stops, and they are quiet the rest of the day.

how exactly do i tell if they are bad? and yea i usually break boost to make it go away lol

You need to physically remove the drum to check. That could be a PITA, if they haven't been off for some time/ever.

occasional demons wrote:You need to physically remove the drum to check. That could be a PITA, if they haven't been off for some time/ever.

yea i really dont know when they was replaced. what about if i go to a place that offers a free break inspection?

That should do it.

occasional demons wrote:That should do it.

i bet they wont check the drums lol

Its an easy swap, I did it because I hate working on drums. Taking apart drums is a true bitch if they havent been apart in awhile.

Mat00ES wrote:Its an easy swap, I did it because I hate working on drums. Taking apart drums is a true bitch if they havent been apart in awhile.

ill pay ya to swap mine. i need to watch to learn just like this is the first turbo kit i did my self but its the 2nd turbo setup

if you have a free day, just take your time and move slowly to see how everything works as you take it apart and you'll learn loads.

swapping brakes was one of the early things I did on my own.

i was more comfortable taking apart the engine i tried to bleed my breaks before on my one gen with the self bleeder thing and i had no idea what i was doing i dont even know how to change break pads lol but i can install a turbo and tune it no problem

I might be able to get you a rear brake set up from an r/t. My buddy said he'd help with the swap too.

Mat00ES wrote:I might be able to get you a rear brake set up from an r/t. My buddy said he'd help with the swap too.

wow that would be perfect i do need the extra stopping power i have too much power in the car to be on stock breaks

Send me a PM, and we can figure something out