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does anyone have a good how to I used the search and came up with nothing. I am trying to replace the bearings on the driver rear side pics would be great too please

-Pop the drum off, or the rotor.

-Take the dust cap off the hub

-Use and impact wrench or a long breaker bar and socket to remove the nut holding the hub/bearing assembly on. I forget what size it is but it's large and metric IIRC. You probably don't just have one lying around and might need to pick one up. If you get that off, that's the worst of the problems.

-Just pop the new hub/bearing assembly on

-tighten the nut

-put dust cap on

-put the drum or disc/caliper back on and you're good to go.



If you meant replace just the bearings... I don't think you can. If you can, don't be cheap. Just buy the assembly. It's worth the piece of mind.

I believe they are only sold in assemblies. Like Ryan said, use an impact to get some of the old crap off and just pop it in.

im going to use a breaker bar because i dont have air tools how do i get the drum off??

Knock the hell out of it with a hammer. They can be stubborn as frick to get to break free. The shoes may need adjusted in also. There is an adjuster behind the black plug on the backing plate. A flat blade screw driver can be used to move the adjuster wheel. The trick is figuring out whether up or down is tightening or loosening. I can never remember. And always guess the wrong way.

you know dodge should have made their drums like what where on my nissan truck, there was two threaded holes for bolts and to just screw the bolts in and it pops the drum off.

I think the rears are 30mm and the fronts are 32mm IIRC

^That sounds right.

Pry between the drum and the backing plate with a pry bar after banging on it with a hammer. If the hub is rusted to the drum it's going to be hard to get off. Also make sure you don't have the ebrake on..

sidepipe87 wrote: Also make sure you don't have the ebrake on..

That too, otherwise, it could be a long day.

Some penetrating oil may help, along with a propane torch, just not simultaneously. The thin metal will heat up faster than the hub. Might expand enough to start sliding off.

I ended up taking the drum off and throwing it at the ground studs down when I did mine. Nothing else was working, pretty ridiculous.

did the rear hub / bearing on my '01 R/T on friday ... probably the easiest job i have ever done lol

the most difficult bit was getting the dust cap off !

lots of pb blaster and i mean alot and a Bfh

i used flathead screwdriver and rubber hammer to get it off

wow that was easy I needed to replace two wheel cylinders too