Question about brake pad change

esfan · Post by **esfan** » Sat May 01, 2010 11:43 am

I changed my brake pads yesterday since the old one is almost out. Everything went on pretty good. But after rubbing it for awhile, I notice the rotor is rubbed only on the out half side. The inside half is all rusted up since there is almost no contact btw the brake pads and the rotors. Is this normal? Or is there something I did wrong?

In this case I thought maybe I need to break the brake in for a few miles, so I drive around SD again but it does no help at all. Or maybe I need more miles to break them in?

The brake pad I used is Duralast Semimetallic one from Autozone (short on budget). I used to use the ceramic pads but my rotors end up damaged and eaten. So in this case, is the ceramic ones causing this? Since I heard ceramic pads are pretty hard on rotors, and semimetallic is somehow softer but with dust. Thanks.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Sat May 01, 2010 11:53 am

brakes should hit "evenly" on both sides.

And breaking in a simple process of 2 easy brakes from 25 mph and 2 "fairly" hard brakes from 55mph.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat May 01, 2010 11:55 am

Ceramic is supposed to be easier on rotors, or so I thought.

Did you have the rotors turned, and how are the guides in the knuckle where the pads hit against? If there are grooves worn into them, it might keep the pads from moving properly. This is one of DCX's crappy designs. If the rotors weren't turned, and they are rusted from the old pads not wearing the corrosion away, then get then turned, or replaced!

esfan · Post by **esfan** » Sat May 01, 2010 12:00 pm

The rotors are turned 3 years ago, and there are groove worn on the rotor too. I guess I need to get those things replaced pretty soon.

I did the break in process as you said. Or much more break ins. So I guess it's not the problem with break in.

The old pads came off looks worn unevenly. I can clear see the slightly angle slope on them. So it's really the rotors not the brake pads? Thanks for the help!

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat May 01, 2010 12:08 pm

If the inner pad is not contacting the rotor, you more than likely have a bad caliper.

Did you clean and lubricate the slide pins and the area where the pad contacts the caliper when you did the pads?

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Sat May 01, 2010 2:12 pm

Danteneon wrote:If the inner pad is not contacting the rotor, you more than likely have a bad caliper.

Did you clean and lubricate the slide pins and the area where the pad contacts the caliper when you did the pads?

this was going to be my next statement... Thank you Dante

esfan · Post by **esfan** » Sat May 01, 2010 2:27 pm

Danteneon wrote:If the inner pad is not contacting the rotor, you more than likely have a bad caliper.

Did you clean and lubricate the slide pins and the area where the pad contacts the caliper when you did the pads?

I forgot to do this... Thanks!

heydockyle · Post by **heydockyle** » Sat May 01, 2010 2:30 pm

I use raybesto's brake lube stuff on the bolts and the ears where the pads slide on the knuckle everytime.

Make sure it's all real clean.

esfan · Post by **esfan** » Sun May 02, 2010 11:32 am

I guess my pins are worn out so I'm gonna get some new one. And since the rotors had been turned once, I don't even want bother turned them again. So I'm going to get some new rotors soon probably. Any suggestions? I heard powerslots are not as good as they advertised, and I'm not confident on those cheapy ebay ones. Thanks!

Post by **racer12306** » Sun May 02, 2010 11:35 am

My opinion, and I'm sure the opinion of many others, is that the rotors should be turned or replaced with every pad change. Since they have been turned once, they are probably junk now.

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Sun May 02, 2010 12:37 pm

oem rotors are the best.

OB · Post by OB » Sun May 02, 2010 12:51 pm

bstc00 wrote:oem rotors are the best.

Not for performance. Pretty sure my OEM rotors are warped, and that's with 44k total, about 25k with Hawk HPS pads, and DOT4 fluid. When I slow down it feels almost like mini-ABS. Except I don't have ABS

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Sun May 02, 2010 2:41 pm

racer12306 wrote:My opinion, and I'm sure the opinion of many others, is that the rotors should be turned or replaced with every pad change. Since they have been turned once, they are probably junk now.

Post by **racer12306** » Sun May 02, 2010 2:48 pm

Full thickness OEM rotors are pretty good. They lose a lot when they get turned.

ragek23 · Post by **ragek23** » Sun May 02, 2010 5:58 pm

occasional demons wrote:Ceramic is supposed to be easier on rotors, or so I thought.

I have used both types of pads with power slot rotors. Specifically duralast semi metallic and EBC red ceramic pads. I actually used the Duralast pads more frequently on the track that EBCs just because of cost. The EBCs ceramic pads were absolutely amazing in stoping power with the combination of the power slots but they wore away my rotors in half the time. So if you are on a budget go with the duralast pads or another semi-metallic pad.