Strut mount- safety question

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
Post Reply
User avatar
zhneon
2GN Member
Posts: 406
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:20 pm
Location: Reading PA

Strut mount- safety question

Post by zhneon » Wed Aug 04, 2010 10:25 am

Ok, so this week I have had a few days off, so i decided to tackle my first suspension job- throwing on some srt springs I had laying around.
OB's how-to was great, no issues, until I tried to disassemble the strut after I had compressed the spring. The nut was absolutely frozen, and no amount of leverage could get it undone. I actually snapped a 1/4 inch drive extension trying to crack the nut.
It would have been a few days until I had access to air tools, so I decided to put everything back together until it was convenient.

Now here comes my real question, because as I reassembled everything, this happened:
Image
The bolt was mega-rusty and just went.
Obviously I am ordering new strut mounts w/bearing, but my question for now is about safety.

Is it safe to drive with only these two on for a short while, or should I keep it parked until I get new mounts?
All help is appreciated. :thumbup:
-Zack
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #101
Image

racer12306
Junior Admin
Posts: 16015
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 8:53 pm
Location: Baltimore, MD
Contact:

Post by racer12306 » Wed Aug 04, 2010 11:11 am

personally, I wouldn't drive it.

Next time you should use PB blaster.
-Frank
Member of Spork Racing
Forum issues: racer12306@2gn.org
Forum Behavior
Support your favorite forum, DONATE!

r/tguy02
2GN Member
Posts: 3644
Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:42 pm
Location: carlisle, pa.

Post by r/tguy02 » Wed Aug 04, 2010 11:21 am

i know someone that snapped his puting a strut bar on and he still drives it, now i'm not saying you should be taking corners like ken block but if you are taking it easy just commuting i'm sure you'll be fine.
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2931823

User avatar
hansken_yo
2GN Veteran
Posts: 5148
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:54 am
Location: Washington

Post by hansken_yo » Wed Aug 04, 2010 11:51 am

racer12306 wrote:personally, I wouldn't drive it.

Next time you should use PB blaster.

:withstupid:

I don't recall, so I'm going to ask, but aren't those replaceable without having to replace the whole top hat or strut?
Image
| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.

User avatar
zhneon
2GN Member
Posts: 406
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:20 pm
Location: Reading PA

Post by zhneon » Wed Aug 04, 2010 12:00 pm

I decided to replace the whole thing because of the whole situation. The nut is frozen as well, so I'm going to start over new. Maybe I'll just get BC's :lol:






I wish.
-Zack
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #101
Image

FAC3L3SS
2GN Veteran
Posts: 6517
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:58 pm
Location: NIN

Post by FAC3L3SS » Wed Aug 04, 2010 12:14 pm

Couldn't you drill it out and put a giant nut and bolt on it?! Lul. It'd hold (this tends to be my solution for A LOT.
el. oh. el.

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 20067
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Wed Aug 04, 2010 12:36 pm

FAC3L3SS wrote:Couldn't you drill it out and put a giant nut and bolt on it?! Lul. It'd hold (this tends to be my solution for A LOT.
:withstupid:

I think the studs are spot welded to the top hat. Grind/file the stud flat on top, center punch and drill, starting out small for a pilot, then take it out all the way. A 5/16 bolt/nut should work 'till you replace it. A propane torch and penetrating oil are your friends for this stuff. Bigger bolts would need oxy-acetylene, but for those, propane will help. $25 for a torch kit would be $ well spent.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

User avatar
sidepipe87
2009 Silver Contributor
Posts: 9501
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 5:35 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Contact:

Post by sidepipe87 » Wed Aug 04, 2010 1:30 pm

Personally.... I really wouldn't worry about it. There's still two nuts there. It can't go anywhere. Don't drive like an idiot and you'll be fine until you get it fixed.
PM me for your 03+ PCM SKIM/VIN flashing needs. Neon PCMs Plus

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 20067
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:20 pm

While most of the force is going to be on the LCA, The one thing you have to consider is having to brake extremely hard, or take an evasive turn on the brakes.

You can drive as conservatively as is reasonable, but you can't control the other idiots out there.

I also doubt it is going anywhere, but if you can bolt it in place for 15 minutes work, why not.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Post Reply

Return to “Suspension, Steering & Brakes”