OH NO'S my car is in trouble!

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
SlvrACR
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Post by SlvrACR » Sat Nov 06, 2010 8:37 pm

Ya that bolt. Prothane calls it a trailing arm in there kit even though we know thats not what it is
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Post by darthroush » Sun Nov 07, 2010 2:50 am

I was just wondering because mine were very easy. The joys of California weather, sometimes.

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Post by Jenni » Mon Nov 08, 2010 1:35 pm

changed all today and was at the tire shop for the alignement - and it was a MUST!!!! the wheels stand like crazy!

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Nov 08, 2010 3:36 pm

Jenni wrote: the wheels stand like crazy!
? You lost me. :)
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Post by Jenni » Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:16 am

??

left wheel stand straight - right wheel 15° left and all other alignement data were totally sick...

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Post by occasional demons » Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:59 am

Ah, you are referring to the camber.

I wasn't sure if it was some term for handling I never heard of. :rofl:
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by Boyscoutgonebad » Sat Nov 13, 2010 6:59 pm

orangeneon05 wrote:http://www.modernperformance.com/protha ... -1280.html

would this be worth it for my 5 year old car or no?
i did it on my 10 year old car. Deff worth it in my opinion. After i did that kit, new ball joints, tie rods, and an alignement the car drove like new.

it took me about 5 days working, 4-6 hours a day to do the whole kit plus the other things i mentioned. but my car is older than yours. I had several problems with bolts breaking off and sticking because of rust. just the control arm bushings is a one day job.

like i said on the phone come down some time if you want to work on it. ive got he garage space, ramps, jakcks air compresor and impact gun(A must for this job in my opinion) and an acetalyn torch(also a must if you run in to stuck bolts.

plus you could pay the $100 bucks you owe me for the SRT rims. lol
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sat Nov 13, 2010 7:38 pm

Maybe I'm crazy, but no one mentioned a wheel bearing may be bad... You said when you turn you hear a whine like a MTX in reverse. If you only hear it turning one way it may be a bad wheel bearing. They make a humming noise. If it whines when turning both ways sounds like the power steering pump may be shitting the bed. Check the power steering fluid level while you're at it.
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:21 pm

Damn, I missed that post.

If you are doing the LCA bushings/ball joint, then definitely check into the front wheel bearings. You are 80% of the way there to having the knuckles removed at that point. Just remember to loosen the axle stub nut before the wheels are removed if you have steelies. If you have alloy wheels, you would need either an impact to break them loose, or some solid way to keep the hub from turning. A helper pressing the brake pedal would be the easiest.

And remember to torque the nut down before driving the car, or rolling it with the weight on the hubs. The bearings will fail in short order if the nut is not torqued.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by orangeneon05 » Fri Nov 26, 2010 9:40 pm

thanks guys some how i missed all of these posts and just read hem now i plan on doing the control arm bushings and seeing if its better. if not im taking it to the stealership cuz i dont trust my self with bearings and other torque sensitive operations. boyscout as soon as i get the bushings in ill let you know i should have that money asap too.
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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:48 pm

so i thought i would let you know what i found out i am a little bit on the dumb side because i aded powersteering fluid too it and its fixed
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Jenni
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Post by Jenni » Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:56 pm

oho. haha....

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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:11 pm

yea keeping fingers crossed that thats what the problem was the entire time.
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MyNeonSaysHi
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Post by MyNeonSaysHi » Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:20 pm

occasional demons wrote:It is the long bolt that goes through the rear crossmember. They tend to rust in place.

I think he was referring to the lateral arms tho. The tension strut would be more of a trailing arm.
Yup a shop doing an alignment broke mine. They had to fix it for free.

You added powersteering fluid and its fixed? Well you shouldn't run low on power steering fluid... That might just be a short term resolution.

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Post by occasional demons » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:11 pm

Agreed, keep an eye on the fluid level. Check the hoses for seepage, and the bellows/boots at the ends of the steering rack. Mine used to leak out the seals, and the fluid would drip out of the bellows. Power steering stop leak seems to have fixed that. :D

With 160,000 miles I figure I had nothing to lose.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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orangeneon05
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Post by orangeneon05 » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:13 pm

true true well i have snow under my car when i park and so far no crazy red spots showing up under it
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